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dammit.... rear main seal leak

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Old 12-11-2008, 07:24 PM
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Default dammit.... rear main seal leak

not looking foward to this... who else has changed theirs? i researched and came up with these part numbers, do they look right to you guys?

Rear Main Seal GM # - 12585671
Rear Main Plate GM# - 12572014
Rear Main Plate Gasket GM# - 12574293
Rear Main Plate Bolts GM# - 12556127
Old 12-11-2008, 07:31 PM
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I would also like to know, anyone have good info on how to replace it?
Old 12-11-2008, 07:33 PM
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you dont need a new plate

make sure you align the oil pan and the plate too on re assembly or else itll leak again worse than SRJ's.
Old 12-11-2008, 07:39 PM
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how hard is it to align? and is rtv sealant on the gaskets a good idea as well?
Old 12-11-2008, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cvaught
I would also like to know, anyone have good info on how to replace it?
1. Remove Transmission
2. Remove flexplate/flywheel
3. Remove Seal
4. Throw it way
5. Install New Seal
6. Reverse steps 2 & 1
Old 12-11-2008, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hlaalu
how hard is it to align? and is rtv sealant on the gaskets a good idea as well?
they have a tool to align them
Old 12-11-2008, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by XpEdItIoUs
1. Remove Transmission
2. Remove flexplate/flywheel
3. Remove Seal
4. Throw it way
5. Install New Seal
6. Reverse steps 2 & 1
exactly.
Old 12-11-2008, 11:04 PM
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i read that its best to install the seal backwards? is that correct?
Old 12-11-2008, 11:12 PM
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It's simple to do man. Just do exactly what you did when you did your clutch swap, only this time pry out the old rear main seal and instal the new one.
Old 12-11-2008, 11:17 PM
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stupid question, but i should drain the oil out before doing this i would guess?
Old 12-11-2008, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hlaalu
stupid question, but i should drain the oil out before doing this i would guess?
You shouldn't have to.
Old 12-11-2008, 11:36 PM
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I'm in the middle of replacing my clutch and after taking of the flywheel bolts they had oil on them, I guess I need a new seal myself, it looks simple to do but any more info will be great...
Old 12-11-2008, 11:37 PM
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dude come out here and help me i want to make this thing leak proof
Old 12-11-2008, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by hlaalu
dude come out here and help me i want to make this thing leak proof
You'd be surprised how simple it is. When are you planning on doing it?
Old 12-11-2008, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
You'd be surprised how simple it is. When are you planning on doing it?
probably around new years if i get the parts
Old 12-12-2008, 09:17 AM
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so ive been reading about this all morning, and i want to check behind the intake mani to see if anything might be leaking from there. is there a guide on how to remove it, ive never taken it off before.
Old 12-12-2008, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by hlaalu
so ive been reading about this all morning, and i want to check behind the intake mani to see if anything might be leaking from there. is there a guide on how to remove it, ive never taken it off before.
this should help

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
Old 12-12-2008, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by hlaalu
so ive been reading about this all morning, and i want to check behind the intake mani to see if anything might be leaking from there. is there a guide on how to remove it, ive never taken it off before.
The link provided is a very good write up on how to swap to an LS6 manifold, which you need to do! But I wouldn't suspect that as a source of an oil leak. Back in the day with SBC's and LT1's with wet intakes and rtv sealant were known to leak, but LS1's have dry intakes and use a valley plate with a gasket. You can still feel around the edge of the valley plate for a leak. I would check your RMS (which you did already), valve cover gaskets) and oil pan.
Old 12-12-2008, 12:45 PM
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thomasian, if you have any questions... call me! lol. Id hate to see you break an intake bolt and have to pull the head. Ive always got my phone on.

I just dont see why you need to pull the intake, unless your swapping them. Just stick your hand back there and see if the oil sending unit is leaking. But since you've never had the intake off, it shouldnt be. Just sometimes people hit it when they are messing with the intake.

Install the rear main the normal way.. not inside out. Put a little oil around it with your finger so it slides on nicely, make sure its centered, and your good.

You dont need to drain the oil, but if its time to service... would be easy to do since the car is up.
Old 12-12-2008, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
The link provided is a very good write up on how to swap to an LS6 manifold, which you need to do! But I wouldn't suspect that as a source of an oil leak. Back in the day with SBC's and LT1's with wet intakes and rtv sealant were known to leak, but LS1's have dry intakes and use a valley plate with a gasket. You can still feel around the edge of the valley plate for a leak. I would check your RMS (which you did already), valve cover gaskets) and oil pan.
Originally Posted by xxrillixx
thomasian, if you have any questions... call me! lol. Id hate to see you break an intake bolt and have to pull the head. Ive always got my phone on.

I just dont see why you need to pull the intake, unless your swapping them. Just stick your hand back there and see if the oil sending unit is leaking. But since you've never had the intake off, it shouldnt be. Just sometimes people hit it when they are messing with the intake.

Install the rear main the normal way.. not inside out. Put a little oil around it with your finger so it slides on nicely, make sure its centered, and your good.

You dont need to drain the oil, but if its time to service... would be easy to do since the car is up.
thanks for the help, don't wanna swap it until i do the upgrade then. this leak is driving me crazy i didnt get any sleep last night

im going to wipe everything real well and then feel around the back after i take it for a spin.


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