brandotron

iTrader: (1)

This is embarassing, but which valves are exhaust and which are intake? I suspected an bent pushrod on my drivers side and took everything apart. Now that it's time to put it back together, I don't know which valves are which! I believe that a gen1 is EIIEEIIE from the front of the head, but I assume that's not the case with an LS1. Help!

00SSLS1

iTrader: (7)

It's IEIEIEIE look at how the headers line up to the head, that will tell you which ones are exhaust.

Wicked_muscle

iTrader: (34)

The little valve is the exhaust.

brandotron

iTrader: (1)

D'oh! Thanks bro, if you can't tell, this is my first time doing this on my LS1

brandotron

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, another question: The Haynes manual gives a very specific procedure for torquing down the rocker arms; it involves finding TDC. Yet all of the install guides I see online for yella terras and slp rockers give no such instruction--they basically say to torque it down.

Do I need to go through the trouble of finding TDC, or can I do the Finger tight, socket wrech tight, Torque Wrench tight thing? Thanks guys

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

If nothing changed that would require a different pushrod length, then all you have to do is torque down all the rockers to 22 ft.lbs. (LS1's use non adjustable rockers). Maybe you are looking at the procedure for a LT1.

SUCK MY SS

iTrader: (14)

its still important to be on the base circle of the cam lobe when torquing rocker bolts... if your not, then every cylinder (or lifter/pushrod/rocker and valve, more specifically) is going to be at a different point around the circumference of the camshafts lobe... what this means is some rockers will be opening valves others will not...if you are torquing a rocker for a valve that is at higher points of the cam lift, it will bottom out the lifter as you draw the bolt in, in order to start opening the valve...so no longer are your torque readings based off of only the bolt, but you now have the leverage of the spring on the rocker tip and the bottomed out lifter/pushrod on the rocker cup... in short, you get false torque readings...
your best bet is to do each valve seperately on the base circle of the lobe... this will ensure proper torque and uniformity throughtout the pedestal mount...
ive also seen a bunch of people just torque em all to 22, rotate the engine 180* and recheck the torque... ive seen this work as well, but i dont particularly like to use that method..

brandotron

iTrader: (1)

Weird. I thought the Haynes method was a little too involved for non-adjustable rockers...and I was in the LS1 section! I've always had good luck with Haynes before. Anyway, I used the yella terra install writeup on ls1howto as a reference and they also said just to torque 'em down. Works for me!

Much of my ticking noise is gone! I tore everything apart expecting to find a bend rod or busted spring, but it still looked brand new! I re-lubed the pushrods and rockers, reassembled, and no more tick tick tick tick.

brandotron

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm...I felt that by tightening everything down with a socket wrench before torquing it to spec, I'd have taken the resistance out of the spring, so to speak (since tightening it with a socket compressed the spring). All of the springs were fully compressed before I torqued the nuts down. I dunno, everything feels and sounds fine now. Maybe I should open it back up tomorrow?