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What Motor Oil You Running?

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Old 03-23-2010, 05:54 PM
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Anyone ever use Royal Purple 75w90 Synthetic like this guy?

http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/su...gent-help.html
Old 03-23-2010, 06:01 PM
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gotta love the imports...
Old 03-23-2010, 06:02 PM
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i use albertson brand canola oil.... works good.... if i have a coupon for it i will run extra virgin olive oil when i go to the road course
Old 03-23-2010, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryne @ CMS
i use albertson brand canola oil.... works good.... if i have a coupon for it i will run extra virgin olive oil when i go to the road course
I've heard olive oil has better heat resistance and has been dyno proven to make 3% more power than conola oil...but only when used with a Stater Bros brand coffee filter.
Old 03-23-2010, 06:08 PM
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i use folgers filters.... higher quality
Old 03-23-2010, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryne @ CMS
i use folgers filters.... higher quality
Old 03-23-2010, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FearTheDeer
All jokes aside, this thread is pretty worthless...IMO as long as you use a well known name brand oil (Penzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil, etc.) and filter and change it regularly as required, you'll be fine. Oil is oil...
Old 03-23-2010, 06:34 PM
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True, but i havent started a thread in a while and wanted something with some substance.

But i was more hoping for an argument on why one is better than the other for such and such reason(s)
Old 03-23-2010, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by FearTheDeer
But i was more hoping for an argument on why one is better than the other for such and such reason(s)
That may be what you wanted, but what you are going to end up with is 50 people stating how they use 10 different brands of motor oil without issue...
Old 03-23-2010, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
Valvoline Premium Conventional 5w-30
Epic fail. The saying "oil is oil" is a joke. I would never run anything less than a full synthetic in any car of mine that is driven hard. Conventional oil is wax based and cannot travel into and protect certain parts of the engine like synthetic oil can. You may not see the wear, but if you were to compare two identical motors (size, mileage, hp) with one running conventional, and another with synthetic, the physical results would speak for themselves (and they do).

The molecules that make up synthetic oil are smaller which is what gives it those capabilities. My truck is well past 100K and the valvetrain and motor noise in general is very quiet in comparison to all other 5.3 Vortecs I run into that service with conventional oil, and they have 1/2 or only a 1/3 of the miles I have on my motor. And considering I work in the business, I've had plenty of different trucks to compare to, on a daily basis even. Come on Mr. "World's Greatest Mechanic" ! You should know this! (I kid, I kid)

As for me... I generally ran Mobil 1 and nothing else in all of my cars ever since I had a driver's license. For the past couple of oil changes I have been using Castrol Edge 5W30, and plan to stick with it, Judging by the tests as well as my personal experience so far. The Vortec motors in the GM trucks are notorious for burning oil and mine would eat through about a quart of M1 every 3K or so, roughly, regardless of weight, and would get dark very quick. With the Edge, it only ate about about a 1/4 of a quart in 4500 miles, and the color looked much better than M1 did at that mileage. So I'm sold.

Syntec is a step below M1 and Edge, but is still good stuff. The German 0W30 appears to be the best of the bunch, but someone I knew with a C5 LS1 Vette decided to try out the GC and was not happy with it. Said the valvetrain was way more noisier as opposed to when he ran M1.

But in the end, oil opinions are like any other opinion on anything else. Its all really preference and as long as you run a synthetic I think you're good.
Old 03-23-2010, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy 92 RS
I would never run anything less than a full synthetic in any car of mine that is driven hard.
And there were never any reliable, high-mileage, hard-run motors around before full synthetics came around right? Many people have put high miles on motors while driving them the way they should be driven using only conventional oil...

I spin my stock bottom end to 6500+ rpm on a daily basis and I average 25k miles a year...using Valvoline conventional oil. I have 187k miles on the original manual transmission using conventional ATF (also Valvoline). The whole "you must use synthetic" is a joke to me. But as you said, that's my opinion.

Also way to over use "epic fail"...using 75w90 gear oil in your engine = epic fail, using convetional 5w30 is not...

Just to be clear, I'm not saying conventional is better, just stating that I use conventional and I don't have a reason to spend more on full synthetic. I don't expect my engine to last forever with the abuse I put it through, it will fail in other ways long before the bearings give out due to any sort of under lubrication, if any...

Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 03-23-2010 at 07:05 PM.
Old 03-23-2010, 07:01 PM
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Mobile 1 10w30 like the manual says.
Old 03-23-2010, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
And there were never any reliable, high-mileage, hard-run motors around before full synthetics came around right? Many people have put high miles on motors while driving them the way they should be driven using only conventional oil...
Synthetic oil has been around and used since the 70's. It just didn't start getting more attention till nearly 20 years later. I never said that conventional oil is not capable of allowing a motor to achieve high mileage, the question is, just how well do want that motor to run as time and mileage occurs? I know of guys that have put 200 or even 300K on their SBCs with regular oil, but does the motor perform and run as optimum as opposed to when it was lower mileage, or even new? Of course not. Why? Engine wear and tear.

Me personally, I only want the best in my babies. I want what will minimize or nearly not wear out my motor, and maintain HP longer. Not what will "just make it run."

That's why the big quote for Castrol Syntec is "provides horsepower longer." It's not a sale tactic, it's proven. Synthetic oil leaves virtually no wear behind, so the motor will perform and run at its best for nearly its whole life.
Old 03-23-2010, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by djsanchez2
Mobile 1 10w30 like the manual says.
What manual? Doesn't it say 5w30 right on the cap
Old 03-23-2010, 07:08 PM
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I would argue and say all top brands of synthetic yield the same results... with the exception of royal purple being overpriced because, well... people seem to keep buying it.
Old 03-23-2010, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
What manual? Doesn't it say 5w30 right on the cap
depending on your climate, the manual says 5w30 and 10w30
Old 03-23-2010, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by hlaalu
depending on your climate, the manual says 5w30 and 10w30
Ding, Ding.... Winner Winner chicken dinner!

Owners manuals btw

Cold climate (freezing temps) 5w30

Warmer climates 10w30
Old 03-23-2010, 08:11 PM
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Was running GC in the 98 for a couple years, To hard to find around here. I just changed to Pennzoil Platinum. Seems ok so far..Paid between $25-30 at Wally World. I think it's 10w30
Old 03-23-2010, 08:22 PM
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based on a thread ive read on here (somewhere)
extensive testing has shown that German castrol and penzoil platinum are the two best oils you can put in your car
although from personal experience i like the gc better, the pp seems to have a weird smell to it and seem that my car burned oil much more with it(well more then normal)
but the price can not be beat with the pp only around 25$ at walmart (and the gc around 45 at auto-zone if they have it)

and btw dont ever run synthetic or royal purple atf in your t56
Old 03-23-2010, 10:47 PM
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Check out this link and see for yourself...I run Royal Purple 5w30 with Royal Purple Oil Filter...and I get it free from my dads shop!

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf


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