Need ideas. H/C ls1 down.
if its more ill just go ahead and save up. 
04-12-2013, 08:18 PM
#23
A 6.0L block is a good start. You can always sell your top end go to LS3 heads and intake. Then the potential to go bigger later will be there, youll have the top end. I loved my cathedral tfs 215cc heads but these LS3 heads are something else especially when you start getting into bigger cubes.
04-12-2013, 08:24 PM
#24
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The motor will live if done right and necessary precautions are taken. Theres quite a few 4.8/5.3 living at north of 600wheel reliably. And many that have made much more than that and lived for some serious beatings. More guys are wiling to push them because if it goes, its 500 to replace it. Not 5k in just the short block. Skinnies has been low 8's in a stock 5.3 as well as a few others. Theres 6 Liters making north of 800 reliably. The rest of the set up has to be done right, which isn't cheap and a well put together combo, not just throwing parts at it like sneezing to make 400+ on a H/C LS1
04-12-2013, 09:33 PM
#28
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Only thing you will need to do to drop in a iron block is drill the 3rd hole for the alternator bracket. Simple and easy. *Beware early 6.0s have a different crank that affects bolting up a T56*
04-12-2013, 11:43 PM
#29
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Sub-100k mile LQ4 longblocks can be had from LKQ for under $1000. That's where I got mine. The bottom-end needed nothing, and the bores still had the original cross-hatching. I put a new oil pump and timing chain in it, along with some mild 243 heads and a small cam, and made the power you see in my sig.
04-13-2013, 12:44 AM
#30
Sub-100k mile LQ4 longblocks can be had from LKQ for under $1000. That's where I got mine. The bottom-end needed nothing, and the bores still had the original cross-hatching. I put a new oil pump and timing chain in it, along with some mild 243 heads and a small cam, and made the power you see in my sig.
04-15-2013, 12:35 AM
#31
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I picked up my LS3 intake with fuel rail and injectors from a vette with under 50 miles on it (thing smelled brand new 
) for $150... 92mm TB for $120, etc... If you take your time the stuffs out there. Pick up some L92's, get em CNC'd and some stock ls3 intake valves and you're rockin...
) for $150... 92mm TB for $120, etc... If you take your time the stuffs out there. Pick up some L92's, get em CNC'd and some stock ls3 intake valves and you're rockin...
04-15-2013, 11:48 AM
#34
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If you do a 6.0, don't bother porting the L92/LS3 heads. They are good for 680-700hp as is. Spend your money elsewhere.
As for the 6.0 cranks that are incompatible with T-56, there is something to do with the length of the crank.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...4-ls1-t56.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ength-t56.html
As for the 6.0 cranks that are incompatible with T-56, there is something to do with the length of the crank.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...4-ls1-t56.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ength-t56.html
Last edited by djsanchez2; 04-15-2013 at 11:54 AM.
04-15-2013, 12:06 PM
#35
Yes 00-01, just get a stock LS1 crank and re bearing the bottom anyways, if you need some bearing I have a set of coated bearings at the house $75 and they're yours. I am going to get the Z28 straightened out and go back old school, I'm done with a newer car and I want pre smog.
