So, I'm going to pull my engine from the bottom over the 4th of July weekend. While it's out, I'll probably put my 243 heads and LS6 cam in it.

The main reason that I'm pulling it is to helicoil two of the bellhousing mounting bolt holes. I'll probably finally put on my poly motor mounts and replace the oil pan gasket and timing chain.

I found the steps to do it on Keliente's website.

I'm ordering a Harbor Freight 1 ton folding shop crane (PN 69445)
and movers dolly (do I need two?).


I have:
another front timing cover and seal
crankshaft seal
ARP Crankbolt
LS2 timing chain
new valve cover gaskets
LS6 cam
243 heads
new LS7 lifters & guides
Oil pan gasket
intake manifold gaskets
Fast 90 intake and NW 90 TB (but I wont be putting those on at this time)

Other than pushrods, is there anything else that I am forgetting?

Any tips from those of you who have pulled it out of the bottom?

 

In addition to Keliente's tutorial (http://www.keliente.com/howto.htm), I was looking through this site, where they pull an LT1 from the bottom:
http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...out-the-bottom

 

152000 miles on the odometer.

I guess spark plugs & plug wires. lol

exhaust manifold gaskets.

hmmm anything else?

 

Just make sure to get the ground wires on the back of the head... Get a nice piece of chain to wrap around the front frame to lift the car. Some wheels or ramps to put under the rear tires to give you more room when lifting the car up.

Most of all have, fun. If ya want and have a truck you are more than welcome to borrow my engine hoist, but it's at my place in Riverside.

I would get two more dollies, it is much easier to move when you have one under the pan area and one under each wheel.

Are you removing your trans as well?

 

Will do! I think the guy in the LT1 link said that he almost broke those wires off.

I have old ramps that I'll use.
I notice in the LT1 link, he uses a strap like this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-w...ing-44847.html

I was going to order that from HF too.
What do you think?

Where does it get wrapped around?
The Radiator support bar?


No Truck. SuperMaro offered up his hoist as well, but I don't have a truck to pick it up. UPS is bringing mine.

I will probably. I think it will make it easier to drill & install the helicoils.

I finally got another 6 speed harness, I should just bite the bullet and put the T56 in there but I'll save it for another time.

 

I was thinking about what you said.

How come nobody put the wheels and tires back on?
Wouldn't it be easier to move around with them on?

I've never pulled one out the bottom before, so I'm sure I'll know why when I actually get it all out.

 

Ahhhh funny you say that, I have done it that way, and it is by no means easy to move, there is no support for the upper parts of the shocks so they camber in hard and well good luck moving it with the wheels on. In theory it would work if you used a struts bar to keep the shocks from falling in.

Yeah the T56 swap isn't hard.... you know you want to....

I think that strap will work, I can take some pics when I get home it is the frame rails on the left and right side of the engine bay.

 

Fwiww me and Gil always leave the wheels on. We put a dolly under the trans and under the k and use the wheels to roll it out. You can also use a Strut tower bar to keep the towers from leaning in but I've never really had an issue.

 

Also don't worry about the harness, just unbolt the pcm undo the 2 connections on the Inside of the passenger kick panel pull the wires through the fire wall and lay everything on top of the motors and harness will come out with it. Much easier since you don't have to take off the intake to get to the ground on the heads and don't have to take off alternator to get to those wires.

 

this is what I was thinking.

I also have a tranny jack that I could use, if it isn't too high (I think it's 10-12" high at it's lowest setting).

 

You would have to get the car really high to use that. I usually leave the rear on the ground ebrake on and chalked and the bumper comes pretty close to touching to clear.

-Undo Y to I pipe.
-Remove TQ Arm & Driveshaft.
- Disconnect trans linkage & Cross member
- Remove front bumper underside plastics
- Remove sway bar brackets and Cruise control box and Vacuum canister from underside of frame rails.
- Remove air box, disconnect front brake lines from ABS Module. Also remove clip on side of frame rail to lines are free. Don't forget to unplug wheels speed sensors where K and frame meet on each side.
- Unbolt PCM and disconnect wires inside passenger kick panels. Also disconnect plus on passenger inner fender that come from pcm. Becareful of vacuum lines on A/c box. Also ground strap on driver side frame rail near ABS Module. Fold everything over on motor.
- Remove radiator and fans, if you have A/c this is when you would unbolt compressor and Zip Tie it where the battery goes(which should have be first thing removed). Also Coolant over flow should be removed.
- Disconnect Steering linkage. Cough raptor ws6 cough.
- Place straps around frame rails
- Support K member unbolt 6 k member bolts.
- Raise engine hoist
- Unbolt shocks
- Lower K, watch brake lines etc as soon as K is all the way down on Dolleys start lifting body more. Once its clear roll it out!

 

You don't have to remove the intake to get the wires out, it does make it easier but it can be done, I know it's how I got your ls1 out.


You always leave the wheels on? So after two cars you always do something? too damn funny. I seem to remember having to move your engine around a shop with wheels on and the shocks did not stay upright, so I guess you could say you have never had that problem.

I will say that if you leave the wheels on you should only need one dolly, but if you leave the wheels on and no dolly, it is a problem.

 

Taking the intake off makes it alot easier. ******* around under the cowl will **** your hands up damn push pins etc. Its just easier to pull it with the harness. Iirc Adam we didn't have it on a dolly. Floor jack and scooted it forward since we did it on a lift.

 

So you guys unbolt the compressor, but leave it connected (hose-wise) so you don't have to refill it later, right?

 

Yes that's how we did it with Lee's car. I believe on Christians I pulled AC since he wasn't using that on the purple car.


Christian it's not too bad if you don't try to loosen from the top there is room from the side, not much but there is room.

Yes I had a lift but when it came out on the jack it did not stay and we had a hell of a time moving it. I still recommend dolly under each wheel and one under trans/engine it will make moving it a lot easier.

Either way you can leave the harness in the car or pull it with the engine. I prefer doing it while you're disconnecting everything else, like starter wires and such since it is more of a hassle to get your hand in there to loosen once the k member is dropped but that's my preference.

 

Me and gil Usually pull everything then I'll pull off the trans and lift the motor off and get it on a stand. Start disconnecting stuff on the stand. I also leave the power steering connected to the k so I don't have to make a mess.

 

So you pull off the accessories while it is still in the car?

I guess, once I have the starter off, I should remove the Torque Converter bolts, so I can remove the tranny when it is finally out of the car.

 

Yes this will make it much easier.

You can do that, I believe he is saying afer you lower the kmember from the car, instead of removing the power steering lines and keeping the power steering pump on the engine once it is removed from the kmember, he is suggesting to just remove the pump from the engine so when you lift it off the kmember there is not power steering fluid everywhere.

 

Cool. Keep the tips coming.

 

yes adam usually. between Christian and i, we've pulled the motors over 5 times. 3x alone on my car, and like 4x on his.

the best and fastest way is to unbolt the harness from the pcm and inside the rocker panel, unbolt all grounds from the body