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I'm selling my 1969 camaro due to not having the time to restore it and was thinking of purchasing a 1967 camaro a got a lead on.
I'd like to know what you guys think this 67 is worth. It is a real SS and there is documentation on this but it is obviously not original. The interior is a little outdated and the rear antenna is missing but other than that it seems good. I'm not a huge fan of the shaved door handles either but it might be kind of cool in person. I have not talked to this person nor do I have a price figure yet either. I have no other info other than the pictures and that it is a 383 with 1000 miles and has a 3-speed trans, not sure if its a th300 or 400.
It's really hard to say, the average looking online is roughly $35k. And there are a ton on ebay!!! If it's $35k and not exactly what you want, don't get it. Take a look on ebay and see if there's something built closer to what you want to have.
A real SS that has no originality left is still worth $$$ even in poor condition. One that has been built nice to drive and 'show' will command prices in the 30's easily. I've seen quite a few 'clone' SS Camaros trade/sell in the low 20's. They are real nice 'built' cars but with fake badging. Be careful with yours and make sure the documentation is real. Unfortunately there are now fake documents surfacing which misrepresent the cars. It can amount to serious $$$ being lost.
Based on being an original SS convertible, if it's anything under $30k then I'm sure it's fairly priced unless it runs/drives poorly and/or doesn't look nearly as nice in person.
If it's over $30k, then I agree with lowchevytrucks8503 above; make sure it's exactly what you want because other examples are available in that price range that might be much more to your liking. Work such as undoing shaved door handles or an interior remodel are not cheap or easy to do, so I wouldn't pay strong money for this car unless you really like it in person (since you have to factor in what it would cost you to make things how you want.)
I found a 68 396 SS matching numbers. It's proced at 30 but I could possibly talk him down. Body is rust free with an older paint job. Interior is original and great condition with an exception to aftermarket seat covers. It's a 4 speed car with the 12 bolt. Runs and drives, has vintage air and PS.
Checkout these photos of the numbers matching areas and let me know if you guys think it's legit please. What's the price on something like this if it's numbers matching?
No one can give you that price info without lots of details and photos. They range from project cars under $10k to pristine machines better than GM ever built. Look at this data below and you will see what I mean.
Data based on 1125 auction sales
•Average Sale Value : $36,572
•Lowest Sale Value : $5,406
•Highest Sale Value : $990,000
•Average Sale Value : $32,916 (disregarding 5% of high and low sales)
Looks like solid #3 or higher end #3 type quality...typical for a 15-25 year old paint job. The engine/trans stampings look genuine to me though I am no authority on Chevys. I figure #'s matching is typically 15-20% more money than correct size/non #'s engine. The fat aluminum radiator isn't exactly stock.
I assume Chevy's have VIN #'s stamped into several body areas (for the Mopars I know they show up on the cowl, radiator support, trunk drip rail, etc.). You have to ensure they are there to verify that donor front or rear ends weren't added. You should also know whether the body panels are original to the car, or replaced used ones, replaced NOS, or reproductions. Original body panels never removed off the car is the best (putty sealer still oozing at the seams). Then you have the issue of quarter panel extensions, trunk floors, center floor pans, etc. being replaced. An owner can say they have an "all original, rust free" car. But, when you start looking at it closely, they often don't measure up. 100% original sheet metal without repairs is very hard to find for stout muscle cars.
The VIN number on the engine seems correct though I can't read the last 2 digits clearly. That's normal. I know that for Mopars in 1968 the 4 speeds did not get a VIN stamping on the transmission. They got the Sequence Order Number (which you can link to the VIN via a build sheet or fender/trim tag). The production date of the trans should be fairly close to the engine build date. You should be able to find date codes on the trans and on the engine. They should fall within 0-6 months (typical 0-4 months) within the build date/scheduled production date of the car. When shelling out $30K for these cars, you need to know these numbers backwards and forwards and that they all agree with each other.
The cowl tag is not legible in that photo. And it's a critical piece in the puzzle. You would need to type all lines into a post for me to decipher further. On a "perfect" matching #'s engine, all the parts attached to it will have date codes fairly close to the engine assembly date (intake manifold, water pump, carb, etc.). The last time I poured over a 1969 427 SS Impala I remember having to find the engine stamping pad on the top of the engine (near intake manifold - water pump area) to verify it really was a 427 car. Those are usually 2 letter codes ...and 3 variants with 325, 350 or 375 hp...the latter being worth much more). The VIN tag only tells you that the car has a V8....not a 396 ci. That's where VIN stampings on the engine and/or cowl/Protecto plate tags come into play. Your second stamping with a T0311MW translates to a mid-march build with the 396 ci - 325 hp 4 speed engine (MW). Would be nice to see a trans stamping as the orig trans to the car is a big plus...a min of 5% value imo. All the date codes on the car should ideally be in the Jan-April range. The engine was built in mid-March, probably a few weeks before the car was assembled.
Fwiw, I saw a 1968 GTX 4 speed go from no tags on the car....to essentially factory correct VIN tag and Fender Tags added. The ability to manufacture perfect tags has been out there for at least 25 yrs. Some people probably have the factory stamping equipment. I look at the VIN tag on this car's dash and it looks perfect, without wear or paint worn off any part of the alpha-numerics. That suggests a very low mileage car, or a repainted tag, or a replacement tag. It's not hard to swap VIN and cowl/pop tags from a rusted or banged up car and shifted into another one. That kind of stuff is done all the time with rare Hemi cars. You need to be fairly well versed in identifying reproduction tags. One thing that helps is having a virgin body with all the right stampings on it....same for the drive train. If those all measure up, the tags should too. If I were spending $30K, I'd be looking for a car where everything lined up...and the body was essentially rust free. Also be sure the options on the car match how it came from the factory. Automatics swapped to 4 speeds do occur. And green/brown/tan factory paint jobs often later on change into red/blue/black ones....ie, the popular colors that bring more money.
$30K seems pretty strong for a #3 condition, matching #'s driver 4 speed, especially the 325 hp version. The after market seat covers and radiator sort of suggest owner(s) that weren't too concerned about correctness. That's fine. Though it does make the car worth less in the end. If you can't afford a reproduction set of factory seat covers from Year One or Legendary on a $30K car to match an otherwise mint and factory interior, then what else did you ignore? There are Camaro forums where you will get high level analysis on a car's value if you post the proper photos. And it isn't matching #'s until about 6-10 things all line up.
I was thinking of offering $25 if everything checked out like all the partial vins on the body and what not.
The paint is correct color (corvette orange), shines up good but is old.
Here's another photo of the cowl tag scuffed up a little for easy reading.
All the dates match up as they should.
It's at a point for me that everything I look at $30k and below is just a rust bucked with pretty paint on the outside or crappy paint and rusted out. I see a lot of first gens, base to ss/fake ss in decent condition in the 20s. With this one being numbers matching (if the case) I somewhat feel like it's worth more than his asking price plus $10k dust because there are so many clones out there. That's just me probably though...
I'm
Selling my 69 to try to get into something driveable now as I don't have much time for a project. My shell with suspension is sold for $20k. My car is 99.9% rust free and has badass suspension though.
It's funny you mention all the mopar stuff, I just got done watching graveyard cars haha.
The O-O paint code in '68 refers to a "corvette bronze." That should be different from say the '69 orange. Any chance the "old paint" is actually the original paint...or much of it? I looked at a 44K mile black 1970 Olds 442 vert 4 speed several years ago where the 2nd owner told me it "couldn't be" original paint. After going over it with a simple paint gauge, I was convinced it was 100% original paint except for a few areas of minor surface rust. The cowl tag as presented doesn't add much except for paint, interior, trim, and month/week of the car's build.
Not sure if paints original, I'll ask. They guy has put only 10k miles on the car over the past 35 years so it could be. It's also never been ran in the rain or outside over night within those 35 years. i might go check it out this weekend and let y'all know.
I'm not too worried about the car being 100% original only that the drivetrain is correct. You can always buy original parts but a motor is a different story.
If it is original paint, and it's decent...that's a huge plus imo. Where there's original paint there is original sheetmetal. Original paint tends to hold up better than repaints. And buyers salivate over original paint cars, especially if under 70K-99K miles. In my mind, an original paint, original sheet metal car that has been garaged most its life, is worth more than a freshly repainted car. Very desirable in a 396 SS 4 speed. You see original paint automatics all the time, because granny or grandpa owned them...and passed them down. But 4 speeds were driven hard, and not usually by granny. If they did survive, they tend to be 10K-45K mile cars. How many miles on this one. If not repainted by the current owner, it's not that likely it needed repainting in the early 1980's. I would think any decent, original paint, big block Chevy, Mopar, Pontiac is $25K as an automatic and $30K as a 4 speed. The better the options, owner history/pedigree, lower miles, documentation, the more it's worth. The build sheet was very possibly in the car when this guy bought it. No one cared about that stuff back then.
08-24-2017, 06:46 PM
Whats it worth? 1967 Camaro SS Convertible 
