lug bolts sheared off with new OE Wheels 18 x 10.5
06-13-2011, 12:11 PM
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lug bolts sheared off with new OE Wheels 18 x 10.5 I recently bought some c6 zo6 wheels for my 2002 WS6 which had Chromed WS6 wheels. I was extremely pleased on Wednesday by the looks. However, on Friday while cruising, I noticed my back end wobbling and two lug nuts sheared off. Has anyone else had an issue with this. I sent Scott a PM asking this question about a year ago. He said that he hadn't heard of it being caused by the rims and repeated to me this am on the phone. My issue is with safety. I'm getting the lug nuts repaired. I just don't want the same thing to happen again. How can I stop this, other than by buying rims from another manufacturer. The issue that I've heard is that somehow the 120.65 versus 120.5 causes the shearing. OE says it can't, I'm not even disputing it. They are not going to warranty the wheels, I don't care!!... which is why I didn't post in the sponsor feedback section... I just need some answers from the community.
06-13-2011, 01:16 PM
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How were the wheels torqued down? Strongly doubt the studs busting had anything at all to do with the wheels, but with the fact that they were improperly torqued.
06-13-2011, 02:35 PM
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Honestly, I have a torque wrench. In retrospect, if anything they were undertorqued. Definitely not over 100 ft/lbs. I'm having the studs replaced tonight. I've never had any issue with my ws6 wheels.
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06-13-2011, 02:49 PM
#8
Far too many people running these & Ruff style wheels without stud issues for it to be wheel related. I'm with everyone else, replace with ARP studs, good lug nuts & you should be good to go.
I've seen tons of stock studs fail with all different kinds of wheel/tire combos. Once those people swapped to ARP studs they never had another issue. Also if they were not torqued enough you might have caused the issue. Not tight enough could cause it to wiggle a little & work on the stud/lug nut over time.
I've seen tons of stock studs fail with all different kinds of wheel/tire combos. Once those people swapped to ARP studs they never had another issue. Also if they were not torqued enough you might have caused the issue. Not tight enough could cause it to wiggle a little & work on the stud/lug nut over time.
06-14-2011, 08:04 AM
#12
only time i ever broke studs was from overtightening once, and another time i forgot to torque them down and the wheel got loose and broke 3 studs off
definitely operator error on my part
definitely operator error on my part
06-15-2011, 01:08 PM
#14
A quick test of the wheel would be to check the flatness of the wheel mounting surfaces... rather than assume anything else.
A wheel that touches (first) the rotor at nearest to the pilot hole will lead to broken studs. (convex surface)
A wheel that touches (first) the rotor at outer diameter of the mounting face is best case. (concave surface)
A wheel that touches (first) the rotor at nearest to the pilot hole will lead to broken studs. (convex surface)
A wheel that touches (first) the rotor at outer diameter of the mounting face is best case. (concave surface)
06-17-2011, 01:23 PM
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Not hub-centric. The lug nuts are cone shaped and locate the wheel. Hub-centric wheels have lug nuts with straight shoulders and built-in washers, and there's a little play between the nut shoulder and the lug bore on the wheel.
06-28-2011, 11:04 PM
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In an effort to not cause a red alert about OE Wheels, it turns out that the lug nuts may have been my fault. I noticed on the reinstall that the wheels were resting against the bump stop when the car is jacked by the frame. So, when I torqued the nuts down. The wheel was probably not flush against the hub. On the 17 inch wheel the bump stop is not a problem Thanks, I hope this helps others.
