Weld RT-S for street use
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I am looking for the best street/strip set-up for my BLACK '98 LS7 M6 TA (estimated peak RWHP 525 and peak RW torque 490). I plan to drive the car mostly on the street (non-daily driver) with very few trips to the track. I am favoring the BLACK Weld RT-S wheels for front and rear. I picked the black RT-S for both appearance and function (traction with drag radials). So, I am trying to decide between the 15" set-up and 17" set-up. The price difference is considerable. But, I do not mind spending more for 17's as long as I do not lose significant traction (for street use) with the accompanying shorter-walled tires. I will likely pick at least 6" width in the front to salvage drivability. I am considering 17 X 9.5" (front) and 17 X 11 (rear) for mostly street use. Another option would be staggered 17 X 6" (front) and 15 X 10 (rear) - the best of both worlds - street and strip. For tires, I am considering M&H drag radials. Hoosiers and Mickeys might be too soft for mostly street use and longevity. Any suggestions?
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I really like these RT-S wheels. May pick up a set for my other car. For best traction, i'd take a 15" over 17 anyday of the week. But you can go pretty darn fast on a 17" drag radial these days. Mickey's are good, the new NT05R's I have in 315 size are pretty good, and the hoosiers are great but wear alot faster. For street use, i'd run the mickey's, M&H or nitto NT05R's.
You can do a 15x4 or so front with a radial front runner and drive just fine. Its not too bad if you like the pro street thing and dont have to take any turns at high speeds or make sudden turns. I daily drove for alittle while on skinnies up front and never had an issue, but I like having a stiff street handling type car, so wide tires are ball game for me.
17x6-ish front would work too if you can get a tire for it. I also have a set of 17x4 GTO spares I drive on with skinnies up front. Also not bad to drive on, although bias ply fronts can be pretty sloppy on some rough roads.
You can do a 15x4 or so front with a radial front runner and drive just fine. Its not too bad if you like the pro street thing and dont have to take any turns at high speeds or make sudden turns. I daily drove for alittle while on skinnies up front and never had an issue, but I like having a stiff street handling type car, so wide tires are ball game for me.
17x6-ish front would work too if you can get a tire for it. I also have a set of 17x4 GTO spares I drive on with skinnies up front. Also not bad to drive on, although bias ply fronts can be pretty sloppy on some rough roads.
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I am looking for the best street/strip set-up for my BLACK '98 LS7 M6 TA (estimated peak RWHP 525 and peak RW torque 490). I plan to drive the car mostly on the street (non-daily driver) with very few trips to the track. I am favoring the BLACK Weld RT-S wheels for front and rear. I picked the black RT-S for both appearance and function (traction with drag radials). So, I am trying to decide between the 15" set-up and 17" set-up. The price difference is considerable. But, I do not mind spending more for 17's as long as I do not lose significant traction (for street use) with the accompanying shorter-walled tires. I will likely pick at least 6" width in the front to salvage drivability. I am considering 17 X 9.5" (front) and 17 X 11 (rear) for mostly street use. Another option would be staggered 17 X 6" (front) and 15 X 10 (rear) - the best of both worlds - street and strip. For tires, I am considering M&H drag radials. Hoosiers and Mickeys might be too soft for mostly street use and longevity. Any suggestions?
I'm looking to do the same thing. My car is a street car(H/C/I/E), non-daily driver also. the 15x10 in the rear and 17x9.5 in the front is what I plan to convert to (with a different set of rims). Since mine is 95% street driven, I'm accommodating for that first. You can still race that setup at the track as far as I know. If you decide you want to start visiting the track more, you could always buy two more fronts if it concerns you that much.
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Just be carefull. My buddy bought a brand new 2012 shelby and then purchased a set of rts from weld. He did the 20x6 in the front and bent one of them bad going over a pot hole at like 30mph after he pulled out of a parking lot. The wheel was so soft he was able to bend the lip back on the side of the road with a small hammer and a piece of wood to seal it up so he could drive home. He was pissed to say the least. Nice wheels and I think you will be good with the 17s or 15s.
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Those are great wheels, you'll be happy with what ever you pick out, sounds like 17's might be best for you, I,ve been mid 10's with my stock 17s. M&H tires are not and harder than Mickey Thompsons, Im running M&H 275/50/17 right now and they hook up awesome for a 17" wheel, but will probably last less 10k miles.
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Just be carefull. My buddy bought a brand new 2012 shelby and then purchased a set of rts from weld. He did the 20x6 in the front and bent one of them bad going over a pot hole at like 30mph after he pulled out of a parking lot. The wheel was so soft he was able to bend the lip back on the side of the road with a small hammer and a piece of wood to seal it up so he could drive home. He was pissed to say the least. Nice wheels and I think you will be good with the 17s or 15s.
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Any suggestions on the BLACK RT-S vs polished RT-S on a black TA? Would BLACK RT-S wheels be too much on a BLACK on BLACK TA convertible? I'm sure it is personal preference. But, I would appreciate opinions on the appearance too!
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yeah i have streetdriven on my 15x3.5 prostars for 2 1/2 years, if its a dd go with a street setup, if its a weekend toy a drag setup is fine just dont drive like an *** and be smart driving,and about the 20 inch wheel thing, bigger wheel smaller sidewall tire ,the more careful you have to be, got any pics of that set up, 20 x6 is kind of a weird size ,
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I may be a bit bias, but RT-S's for sure and definitely a 15" rear for the sidewall cushion ... you won't hook as well (if at all) with a 17" in your power range .... trust me, I know ... ! As far as street use, just remember that a bias ply street "slick" will pickup everything from the road and has a thinner carcass making it much more succeptable to cuts and flats.
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Caliper clearancing for the wheels was not necessary for my install, BUT, something that I did not take into account is caliper clearancing for the wheel weights!!! Yep, test fit with no tires ... perfect. Tires mounted, balanced and wheels installed, GRINDING .... !!!! It was not evident until I immediately pulled the wheels off. So, some slight grinding was necessary for the wheel weights. You could mark the wheels before taking them to be mounted and instruct the balancer not to place a weight any closer to the wheel's mounting surface than the line you marked. The Hoosier tire, however, required alot of weight, so the weight placement vs. the wheel center line might be critical.
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Caliper clearancing for the wheels was not necessary for my install, BUT, something that I did not take into account is caliper clearancing for the wheel weights!!! Yep, test fit with no tires ... perfect. Tires mounted, balanced and wheels installed, GRINDING .... !!!! It was not evident until I immediately pulled the wheels off. So, some slight grinding was necessary for the wheel weights. You could mark the wheels before taking them to be mounted and instruct the balancer not to place a weight any closer to the wheel's mounting surface than the line you marked. The Hoosier tire, however, required alot of weight, so the weight placement vs. the wheel center line might be critical.
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Just be carefull. My buddy bought a brand new 2012 shelby and then purchased a set of rts from weld. He did the 20x6 in the front and bent one of them bad going over a pot hole at like 30mph after he pulled out of a parking lot. The wheel was so soft he was able to bend the lip back on the side of the road with a small hammer and a piece of wood to seal it up so he could drive home. He was pissed to say the least. Nice wheels and I think you will be good with the 17s or 15s.