SgtB

iTrader: (3)

I have Kuhmo 165/80/15's on the front(max pressure 35lbs, I have 34 lbs)...and M/T DR's 275/60/15's(running 25 lbs) on the back

I can start the car and drive for a few minutes and then the ASR OFF, ABS INOP, BRAKE lights come on...

Is there anyway to fix this?

Thanks guys!

LANDONZ

iTrader: (23)

same thing has happened to me, I had to take the front hubs off to replace my studs for my lugs, ever since then my ABS INOP and ASR lights have been on ??

SgtB

iTrader: (3)

How close are your studs to a wheel sensor....I hear that causes problems too.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

It's the tire circumference difference that's causing your problem SgtB, the only way to fix it is to get the tire circumference difference to within 10%, so it's either bigger fronts or smaller rears

SgtB

iTrader: (3)

That's what I read when I did a search but I was hoping for an easier way through tuning when I get my dyno tune next month

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

IIRC the ABS/TCS isn't controlled by the engines ECM, but talk to your tuner, I may be wrong
Good luck

SgtB

iTrader: (3)

I will

thanks

LANDONZ

iTrader: (23)

yes, my car is not throwing any codes at all??

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

The best solution for your application is delete your ABS. Since your ABS is not working properly, it is useles in the state it sits in. It would be best to remove it OR change your setup.

We've got a complete ABS delete setup that completely removes the ABS modulator and brackets...this will clean up quite a bit of room and remove ~15 lbs from your engine bay...more if you have TCS.

I see these ABS problems quite often. More then not, ABS/TCS is more problematic for drag racing and road racing applications. Removing it will not change the feel of your everday use braking abilities. Actually, with our proportioning valves that are included in our kits, you'll be able to better fine tune front/rear brake bias issues with different combination tires, rotors, calipers.

Our base kits are 139.99. Kits are always in stock ready to ship w/in 24 business hours.

Steve

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

on my 00 ss the rear hubs were loose which would cause a vibration and low trac light and abs inop light. probably doesnt apply to you but its a fact none the less

SgtB

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Steve I will Keep that in mind and probably get that in teh near future.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

You're welcome. Let me know if you have any other question or concerns.

Many are hesitant to removing ABS/TCS but once they do, they wonder why they never did it in the past. Especially when they see a nice opened up engine bay without the added clutter.

Many are afraid thinking their everyday braking feel or control feels will be terrible or change...the contrary, it doesn't change. TCS is nothing but a pain to continually disable when you get in the car (or purchase a component to default it "off" when starting).

Trying to work around those "features" spending quite a bit of extra money for ABS troubleshooting or ABS added on the rear doesn't make sense for drag or road race applications. A rear end alone... not choosing ABS saves up to 200.00 in the end!

As I've stated before...Don't get me wrong, ABS and TCS is fine for an everyday grocery getter...doesn't make sense for a performance car.

Good luck!!

SgtB

iTrader: (3)

cool I will be calling you within teh next couple of moonths

CamaroSS621

iTrader: (16)

i was told my ABS is on because I need a new module. Do you guys have any?

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

If it was tested using a tech-tool, then you've got one expensive repair on your hands. If you insist on keeping it, you've either have to pony up some $$, check a junk yard or see if someone on the boards is removing their ABS and will sell one to you.

Easiest and best option in my opinion is to remove it. The only time ABS is even used is if you brake hard locking your brakes...if you've never felt pulsing in your brakes, you've never used ABS. When you've felt pulsing in your brakes, that is when ABS is active...no other times is ABS used.

Hope it works out in the end for you

Steve

thirsty Z

disconect the battery same lights came on my z aint came back on since

SgtB

iTrader: (3)

you are probably not running different size tires then?

TX RED

iTrader: (19)

ok my car is 94 and a v6 but danm light have been on for about 2 years and i have stock wheels WTF

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

If you care about weight and cleaning up the engine bay from the ABS clutter, remove the parts. ABS is not doing anything for you. ABS disabled It is not changing the way your brake pedal feels, not changing your braking abilities from normal everday stopping...its just sitting there taking up space and weight. Once again, the ONLY time ABS is used is when your tires are skidding when you lock your brakes...when you feel the pulsing in your brakes, that is when ABS is trying to work.

If you don't care about the weight and space, just remove the bulb in the dash or alter the lamp wire feed to it. If you do care and want it back on, you'll need to have the EBCM scanned for codes, then have whatever damaged repaired. If it is a rear sensor, then its not too expensive. If its the front sensors or EBCM itself plan on spending quite a bit to have it corrected...(probably over 400.00 when all is said and done).

...with your ABS turned off in your current position, the main thing that may be bothering you is your ABS lamp since you've been driving it without ABS for two years. Personally, I would not even bother correcting your ABS to function as normal, the choice is yours.

dailydriver

Would most state's inspections fail you for an ABS INOP light?? I know that here in Joyzee the fascists can (do?) fail you for any dash lights always on.