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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #101  
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You should always disconnect the battery when you're dealing with yellow connectors. The yellow denotes that it's associated with the airbags and if you don't, they can/will/is a chance that they will deploy..
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 08:05 PM
  #102  
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Just read thru this thread.. I too, gutted my interior and layed some sound damper down (fatmat). OMG, I had a few blisters with that little rolling thing. Jeez!

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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #103  
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Where do you get the little rolling thing? I just ordered 80sq ft of eDead 120
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:26 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by 02NBMWS6
Where do you get the little rolling thing? I just ordered 80sq ft of eDead 120
i to need to know that....
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:34 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by 02NBMWS6
Where do you get the little rolling thing? I just ordered 80sq ft of eDead 120
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
i to need to know that....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:46 PM
  #106  
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do i really need 120 sqft to do the entire car? I am not going to double layer the trans tunnel or do the inside of the doors...

Opinoins?
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 04:01 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
do i really need 120 sqft to do the entire car? I am not going to double layer the trans tunnel or do the inside of the doors...

Opinoins?
Doors are a pretty big improvement. I'd recommend the Trunk/Doors if you do anything at all.
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 04:07 PM
  #108  
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125 sq ft was enough for me to do the entire car, doubling up in some places and doing the inner and outer door panels. By not doing the door panels you are only saving about 25 sq ft total, the doors don't take much. I still need to buy another 10-15 sq ft so I can do the hatch lid. You are only going to have your entire interior out of the car once, you might as well spend the extra money and do it right the first time.
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 04:17 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by vjo90rs8
125 sq ft was enough for me to do the entire car, doubling up in some places and doing the inner and outer door panels. By not doing the door panels you are only saving about 25 sq ft total, the doors don't take much. I still need to buy another 10-15 sq ft so I can do the hatch lid. You are only going to have your entire interior out of the car once, you might as well spend the extra money and do it right the first time.
I am doing the doors (outside) I just do not see a point in doing the inside fo the doors? So how much should i get then, if i do not do the inside of the doors?
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 04:38 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
I am doing the doors (outside) I just do not see a point in doing the inside fo the doors? So how much should i get then, if i do not do the inside of the doors?
Are you running a subwoofer, if you so might want to do the hatch lid, so I'd say 125 because I'll be using 135-150sq ft. If you have a few sq ft left over it is better than not having enough. You should at least put a sq ft behind the door speakers and then double or triple up on it. I think that is the first recommendation when doing door panels, some companies every sell door kits that that is all it is, a few sheets of deadening for behind the speaker.
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 05:10 PM
  #111  
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So far, I have installed about 80 sq/feet. I've finished up the doors (inside/out), trunk hatch & everything under the carpet. All I have left are the rear speaker panels & the inside of the rear quarter panels. I didn't double over anything or have large overlaps. I can tell right now that I'll have between 8-12 sq/feet left over.

IMO if you are unsure of how much to order, guess on the lower side. I'll more than likely never find a use for the left-overs.
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by vjo90rs8
Are you running a subwoofer, if you so might want to do the hatch lid, so I'd say 125 because I'll be using 135-150sq ft. If you have a few sq ft left over it is better than not having enough. You should at least put a sq ft behind the door speakers and then double or triple up on it. I think that is the first recommendation when doing door panels, some companies every sell door kits that that is all it is, a few sheets of deadening for behind the speaker.
No sound system what so ever. Have no desire to have a sub at all. I will prolly do the hatch lid.
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 05:51 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Kikaofazz
So far, I have installed about 80 sq/feet. I've finished up the doors (inside/out), trunk hatch & everything under the carpet. All I have left are the rear speaker panels & the inside of the rear quarter panels. I didn't double over anything or have large overlaps. I can tell right now that I'll have between 8-12 sq/feet left over.

IMO if you are unsure of how much to order, guess on the lower side. I'll more than likely never find a use for the left-overs.
How much should i order then for what i plan on doing? How do you go aobut putting it on the truck hatch? do you have to take anything off?
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 06:18 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
How much should i order then for what i plan on doing? How do you go aobut putting it on the truck hatch? do you have to take anything off?
If you don't cover the inside of the doors, I would order somewhere between 90-100. If you start under the carpet, you will get a gauge right away of how much you will need. If you decide you need more afterwards, you'll already have the hard part finished.

For the trunk hatch, I went to O'reilly's to get an interior trim-panel remover. I can't remember exactly, but it seems like there's 5 or 6 plastic retaining clips that hold the cover on. Just look at how much of the rear hatch the panel covers before you remove it, so you'll know how far you need to install the deadener.

Most importantly, take your time and TRY to have fun. It is an extremely time consuming process, but when done right, it look great and makes you feel great about having done it!
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #115  
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kikaofazz, how much has the sound deadening helped out?
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:20 AM
  #116  
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I'm not here to post dump or anything but I did a lot of research before buying sound deadener. I even became a member over at a car audio forum and guess what people hate edead over there a lot of people hating this stuff, there's stories about edead falling of sooner or later and the fact that edead doesn't use real aluminum foil witch from what I read is a big deal when it comes to an isulator, remember you get what you pay for.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showth...t=edead&page=4
Post #48 is a little disturbing sorry OP just thought i shared, Btw I whent with Rammat.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 01:55 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by fspeedster
I'm not here to post dump or anything but I did a lot of research before buying sound deadener. I even became a member over at a car audio forum and guess what people hate edead over there a lot of people hating this stuff, there's stories about edead falling of sooner or later and the fact that edead doesn't use real aluminum foil witch from what I read is a big deal when it comes to an isulator, remember you get what you pay for.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showth...t=edead&page=4
Post #48 is a little disturbing sorry OP just thought i shared, Btw I whent with Rammat.
I was in the same situation as you, wanted to go with edead because of the price but read A LOT of bad reviews (also on the same car audio forum) and decided to go with RaaMmat because of the price and reputation. Although there are some people on LS1Tech that have had some success with edead.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:41 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by vjo90rs8
I was in the same situation as you, wanted to go with edead because of the price but read A LOT of bad reviews (also on the same car audio forum) and decided to go with RaaMmat because of the price and reputation. Although there are some people on LS1Tech that have had some success with edead.
How much is RaaMat vs. Edead?
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:53 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by fspeedster
I'm not here to post dump or anything but I did a lot of research before buying sound deadener. I even became a member over at a car audio forum and guess what people hate edead over there a lot of people hating this stuff, there's stories about edead falling of sooner or later and the fact that edead doesn't use real aluminum foil witch from what I read is a big deal when it comes to an isulator, remember you get what you pay for.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showth...t=edead&page=4
Post #48 is a little disturbing sorry OP just thought i shared, Btw I whent with Rammat.
thanks for sharing, im glad i got to read this before ordering anything
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:23 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
How much is RaaMat vs. Edead?
I paid...
$220 for 125 sq ft of RaamMAT
$65 for 6 yards of Ensolite (about 84sqft)
$15 for 2 cans of adhesive, just enough for the 6 yards of ensolite
$20 for shippping

The edead80 is $2.00/sqft which means it is more expensive than RaamMAT but a little thicker and if you sign up for their "newsletter/updates" sometimes they send coupons for edead. I chose RaamMAT because you can get the sound deadening, closed cell foam and adhesive all from one place, it has a great reputation, and the owner Rick is a nice guy.
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