samz28

just took the fronts out of the 00 z28. There are wires to the tweeter of the door 6.5" and wires to the sub part of the speaker, it appears they are crossed over somehwere as if you hookup one set you'll get lows and one set you'll get highs. Almost like the TA components.. so in theory the replacement should be a tweet and a mid-bass in front and separate as a single coaxial will only have one connector.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

the stock camaro front speakers are two way...two way WHAT'S i don't know...

i think it's a midbass, and a tweeter in the middle. but the connection has 4 wires going into it, and that's about all i can tell ya.

so does that mean we should just buy a 2-way coaxial speaker? but if the connection has 4 different wires, how the hell are we supposed to hook it up to the new speaker?

the way it was explained to me is that 2 of those 4 wires are hooked up to the midbass part of the front speaker - those wires go to the amp. the other 2 wires are hooked up to the tweeter part of the front speaker - they apparently go directly to the HU, without ever going through the amp.

what to do about this?

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

also, maybe you could explain to those of us who are retarted <--me, heh

how do you wire the speakers (both the fronts and backs) so that they only get 2 ohm, or 4 ohm, or however many ohms you want them to get?

maybe you could draw a diagram of the precise way to wire this exact setup?

if no one else would appreciate that...i know i sure as hell would LOVE to see something like that so that i know what i'm getting into before i buy the equipment. thanks!

14u2nv

Heres my problem though: I have a 2000 Ws6 with the 500watt Monsoon too, BUT...my 99 SS doen't have the 500 watt system, I believe it's the 200 watt crap system. What do us guys with camaros and the 200 watt system do? I am considering adding all new wiring, DVD headunit w/ 7.5 inch screen, front component speakers and rear sail panel speakers, rear hatch speakers and two RF competition subs. If I go this route I will remove all the facotry speakers but I am leaving all the OEM wiring and connectors; therefore, I can swap back the OEM system if that time comes.

Rogue Leader

If you want to by all means just leave the stock wiring and put all that in... then when it comes time to sell or something you can pull it all out and put the factory stuff back and sell it. Id skip the rear hatch speakers, and stick to the fronts and rear sail panels, and wire them to a new amplifier.

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

Maybe I'm confusing myself here... but my factory door speakers have 2 sets of wires to them. I installed a set of MB Quartz 6.5's, but like mentioned in an earlier post in this thread - they sound like crap because the Monsoon system doesn't meet the power requirements of the better speakers.

I'd love to find something that fits better and will wire in like the factory speakers. I had these laying around in like new condition and took a chance swapping them in when my stock door speakers took a crap.

For reference, the model # on the speakers I used is: QM 160 KN-S. Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Rogue Leader

Since I dont have a camaro Ive been discussing this with people... One set of those wires goes to the tweeter, the other goes to the midrange of the speaker. I was not aware of this before, I thought there was just 1 set of wires. Now I wouldnt do this with MB Quarts, but if you buy a set of cheaper good speakers, clip the wires going to the tweeter on the new speakers and wire up the factory harness's wiring to the tweeter to that, and the factory midwoffer harness to the main terminals. Some people have done this with positive results!

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

The MB's I have now also have 2 sets of wires that feed into a crossover and exit w/ only one set of wires. I was thinking of taking the crossover out and wiring them like factory speakers were. If I read right, it rates each speaker at 70 watts peak. Do you think some of my problems are related to using the MB Quartz crosssovers?

Rogue Leader

No not at all.. youre MASSIVLEY underpowering the MB quarts and they arent getting any high frequency sound. If you want to cut the tweeter wires and hook em up as i said before but leave the crossover on the tweeter (you dont want mid-low frequencies going to it). the factory amp has a mid pass filter that is cutting the high frequencies from the amped channel (hence cuting them from the tweeter). The other connections for the tweeter in the car are straight off the car's deck's internal amp.

Again, either way they are underpowered, good speakers like MB Quarts need good clean power to sound good.

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

I'm a bit confused as to how I would rewire things using either set of speakers. As things stand, the MB's will be comming back out as soon as I find something else to put in there - they just don't fit as good as I would like them to. I've bid on several sets of used monsoon speakers and lost every auction. That might not be a bad thing, with my luck I'll end up witha blown set that some jerk pawned off on me.

Rogue Leader

Take the wiring from the factory speaker, cut it off as close to the speaker as possible and mark which two wires go to the tweeter and which to the woffer. Then take the new speaker, find the wires from the speaker terminals that go to the tweeter, if they have a crossover of some sort (rare) ensure to cut beyond that, preferably cut the wires to the tweeter right at the terminal. Attach those wires to the tweeter wires of the harness,and hook the woofer wires to the speaker terminals... there ya have it.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

speaking of, anyone that has done this that could tell me which wires go to the tweet and which go to the midbass i would appreciate. there are long ones and short ones (sets of wires). the longs ones go to which? thanks!

and also - the alpines have a capacitor that filters out mid and bass to the tweeter. so having said that, why couldn't the whole speaker just be wired to the amp, and the two wires that go to the HU not go anywhere? would that drain too much power from the mids?

Rogue Leader

the amp has a filter on the channel that filters out highs and a crossover to filter out lows....

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

damnit. lol. this stock monsoon **** blows. couldn't they make anything about this simple?

well rogue leader, you were right about the alpine speakers in that they look pretty simple to cut the tweeter wires off and then run some separate wires through them. the only problem is what to do about the capacitor? since the tweets are hooked up to the HU though, the capacitor (that filters out bass/mids) doesn't need to even be in the loop, does it?

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

so if i hooked it up incorrectly (meaning, i hooked up the tweeter to the amp accidentally), then it just wouldn't play? it wouldn't blow it?

Rogue Leader

basically yes Im sure some stuff would come through dependng on the frequencies that the amp plays and the capacitor on the tweeter cuts off, but you would lose a lot of sound.

BTW keep the alpine speaker's capacitor in the loop JUST in case....

Z_mod_newbie

I know this is an 'old' and long thread, but I want to add my experience to it. I have a 99 Z with Monsoon 200W amp. I thought I had 2 speakers blown - one front and one subwoofer. Now I know I had 3 blown . I overall liked the Monsoon sound, but though I would have to replace the whole thing after reading some posts. Started reading up on this an decided to just replace the blown speakers.

First, all the speakers are 2 ohm, but if you put in 4 ohm speakers, then 'theoretically' you have to send more power to them to get the same volume. True or not, putting in decent 4 ohm speakers give me just as much overall volume, and less distortion...

2nd, in the camaro, the coax speakers in the front have separate leads to the tweeter and the full range 6.5 inch 'woofer' The tweeter is powered by the Delco head and the woofer is powered by the monsoon amp. I was delighted to find that the amp doesn't have a crossover on that channel, so I could connect the amp leads to my new speakers and get the full audio range powered from the amp. I just cut and taped the tweeter leads away. When removing the stock speaker, you can follow the leads inside the speaker to see which ones lead to the tweeter. Or you can do like I did on the second speaker replacement- twist one pair of leads on and listen if I had the high's only, or the full range. You will also notice a difference in volume, since the head only provides a small amount of power. Most likely this is why I was getting distortion originally - the 200W amp sounds great, but I was overdriving the head unit on the tweeters.

I thought I was in for a bundle, but I only had a budget of $100 so I bought a nice set of 6.75 inch Pioneers TS-A1767 (triaxial or quadaxials). I listened to the equivalent Fosgates next to them at Best Buy and they were pretty close, so depending on my mood, I might choose different ones on different days.... I think the Pioneers had slighly higher frequency reponse on the high end.... Either way, I didn't spend a fortune, and I didn't want do do any cutting... I listened to the Sony's and the Kenwoods, but they didn't have as much of a frequency range as the Pioneers, and I could hear it. I know there are strong opinions on the best speakers, but the higher end 'consumer' grade Pioneers at Best Buy sounded great to me. If I really want perfect sound, it will be in my house, not my 6.5 inch car door speakers...

The 6.75 inch Pioneer speakers fit fine in the door since the factory's are 6.5 'oversize'

As far as wiring, the Pioneers had different sized tabs and included matching wires, which were marked with black stripes for the negative lead. Black to black.. no fuss.
I just dragged my extension cord out and soldered a few inches of the Pioneer leads to the original leads from the Monsoon amp, and taped them up.

Replacing the front speakers gave a much better sound, but I still had a blow sub in the sailpanel. Since I had one good stock speaker from the front, I just transplanted it to the middle. The coax speaker from the front had 2 sets of leads - one to the tweeter and one to the full range woofer. Other than the tweeter, the full range speaker looks the same as the sub, and probably is. So I just connected the sub leads to the 6.5 inch speaker. The 2 sub channels on the amp is truly only for low frequencies - there are no highs, so no matter what kind of 6.5 inch speakers you get, you will only hear the low's - I verified this with my new full range Pioneers before installing them in the door.

Installing the subs was much easier than working under the door...

In the process I discovered that the other Sub was also blown out...(sigh) so one day I have to spend some more money on another pair of speakers with good low frequency response.

With only effectively replacing the front speakers, I do have a huge improvement in the sound. The Bass really thumps from the Pioneers, so it is obvious that the monsoon 200W amp has enough power. The sound is really clear as well, and I am a discriminating listener at medium to high volumes, adjusting the bass/treble differently for each song when I am really ****...

I did move the fader permanently slightly towards the front to get a better sound mix, so it is true that the front speakers seem to deliver less volume than the stock 2 ohms speakers, but they don't break up at higher volumes either, so the overall sound is much clearer. I think a 200W amp is sufficient for me for a while. I can feel the bass thump in my chest at 75% volume and my wife can hear it inside the house. If your goal is to annoy the neighbors, then you can put in 10-12 inch subwoofers in the trunk space, but I don't have that goal. I am probably turning the system to a slightly higher volume with the new speakers than I did before, so the Subs are also getting more power, but it sounds to me like the Pioneers are the ones really delivering the thump... and the highs are very clear also. The Sub volume doesn't seem to be affected by the fader at all - the subs are on at full front or at full back fader settings.

All this to say that for $100, I fixed broken speakers and gave myself a much more enjoyable system. 200W is a lot of sound inside a car, and while playing a CD (large freqency range, very low THD) and modern electronics in the head unit, I doubt that a new head would give much discernable difference in sound unless you can hear them side by side... and I didn't want to have to replace the head and then find that I would have to replace or underuse the amp because of the non-standard 6 channel amplification and wiring.

Feel free to ask any questions on the install.

StalkerLS1

I have a couple questions.. I did not notice there were seperate leads on the front Coaxial Speakers in my Camaro Doors. The Tweets were connected to some leads that penetrate through the larger speaker cone below and were soldered to the same Pos & Neg terminals that drive the main speaker. The connector I had was just a little two wire Quick Disconnect deal. Do you have a Camaro or TA? If it is the Camaro.. That's odd that yours is different than mine.. of course my car is a 2000 and they called it the 500 Watt Monsoon but we all know that's strictly WLS (PEAK)

Also.. The Subs.. Everyone refers to them in the Sail Panel. IS that the 2 right behind each front Seat? or the 2 in the back hatch?

Thanks.. Your experience is good info.. Might be tempted to go the same route..

Rogue Leader

RIght behind each front seat (next to the back seats) are the subs.

There is another sticky post on this forum on this very topic....

Z_mod_newbie

After rereading Tufflucks post on the other thread, I see that the 2000 Camaro wiring is different in the door than my 99 Camaro Z28. I don't know that I completely understand his or your descriptions of the wiring to help. He might have to clarify. My original door speakers had soldered joints with 2 pairs of solder tabs (one woofer, one tweeter) and 2 pairs of wires each with one red and one black lead. It sounds like the 2000 models had quick disconnects.