Hi guys,
wondering if anyone is running a custom ported box for a single sub in the T-top storage area *ontop of the rack* built to fill out that lower trunk area so it doesn't slide around when you are gettin' on it

planning on a 12" type R or DD.

I wanted to run a "spare tire well" 10" stealth but am thinking maybe I could put a 12" sub back there instead if I put the box on the rack, it'd still be covered by the cargo flap out of sight and allow better dynamics. Any Idea on how many Cubic feet I can fit back there?? gonna measure tomorrow probably for box fitment.

just wondering if im not alone in this thinking or if people just stick with sealed 10 stealth/ go for the dual 12" ported subthump boxes.

thanks.

 

One like this?

 

Bingo^^ how many cubes is that bro? Re's bump like a **** too

 

the stealth box is really a better choice for many reasons. first of all the trunk space, secondly, the hatch area itself is like a box so if you put a sub in the stealth position all the open space in the hatch is creating more thump to the bass being circulated in there. by filling the hatch "box" with another box, you are not taking advantage of the already enclosed space, thus reducing the amount of bass that can be produced.

 

Sorry, but I don't totally agree, I went from 2 stealth boxes to a ported(external ports @29hz)hatch box (1.6 cu.ft. per sub)with the same IDMAX 10 subs and the bass I have now is a lot louder and deeper than before.

 

I do not agree tuffluck, ported>sealed for bass, the ported will also have more cubes than the stealth box allowing max operation. A sub is only as good as its box.....

 

That is really true.. You can make JLW7s sounds crappy and some Cheap subs sound good all with the right box for the car and subs...

 

Either a ported or sealed box is good for bass. It depends on what you want. All things equal, sealed will produce a lower frenquency, ported will give you more spl. You can argue all day long what is better.

It all comes down to the tune. I've seen a fully JL audio setup sound like crap. I asked the guy what the hell he tuned it with?

I've seen a legacy setup that sounded fantastic. I didn't even know what was in the car until I walked over.

You just never know, anything can sound good with the right setup and a good tune.

Just as you can make anything fast.

Each to their own I always say. All comes down to the tune and assuming you are buying decent equipment. I won't argue what brand is better, it's a mute point.

 

A sealed box has tighter bass, and the bass rolls off at a lower rate, and helps control speaker excursion. It's small simple box design.
A ported box is louder, and (with a lower port tune frequency) goes deeper in bass. A larger more complex box design and it need a subsonic filter to protect the sub from over-excursion below the port tune frequency.

 

1.2 cbft tuned to 32HZ

 

Tell that to the term labs software.

This is why I said all things being equal, referring to box size limits, equal power, etc. Ported boxes general need more air space. Equally sized boxes, referring to our limited space in the f-body. The sealed box will give you a lower freqency compared to ported box of equal size using the same speaker/s. Term labs recorded lower frequences over and over after professional tunes. I will give you the shop name if you want. If you have the air space, than so be it. Building equal boxes, using equal power, what I said has always been spot on. Orion, Fosgate, Kicker, JLaudio, and not in any particular order. All respectable companies. There's a few new companies I like but haven't put any time or money into. I've experimented allot and ended up liking 2 15" L7s sealed pushing 3k rms. Fbody air space is limited unless you start removing the back seats, etc.

 

PORTED is BY FAR the best way to go. I can never stress enough that the box is just as important, if not more important than, the sub and the amount of power going to it.

Wickedwarlock, a properly biult and tuned ported enclosure with a port tuned to a low frequency will ALWAYS hit lower than a sealed box. Period. And don't even try to tell me to "Tell that to the term lab software" LMFAO!!! Did your Kicker 15's in that tiny *** box ever hit that 165? How about 160? 155? 150? 145? NO I DIDN't. Im willing to bet you hit MAYBE a 144. So please don't give any advice. Its appearant that you don't know what you're talking about.

Here is my box that I use for just everyday listening. Nothing special, but sounds amazing. 3.3 ft^3 tuned to 33 hz:



Sorry I don't have a pic. I just finished everything up not too long ago and haven't taken any more with new amps, different side panels, etc. This setup hits almost as hard and WAY deeper than this OLD setup that I had as my dd a couple years ago: (The solo was taken out and replaced with a port at comp.) :



A have also had Type R's and that were actually pretty good subs for the price. I think that 1 type R 12" in a well-built ported enclosure would more than satisfy your tastes. IMO, there isn't enough box room in the back of our cars to hava a properly built ported box for 2 12's. Either go 1 12" or 2 10".

 

ROFL, spl isn't frequency! You don't know what you're talking about. I didn't say anything about spl. If you want it to be louder, porting it, if you want a deeper bass sound, sealed. As I said before, SPL has nothing to do with frequency, just the volume of output. It's clear you never tuned SQ with term labs. and for what it's worth, try 150-155, depending on music. Personally, I never cared how loud it was, just how low it hits. If I wanted spl, I'd port the box too.

Let's give you an example since you don't seem to understand.


32hz at 165db
26hz at 150db
24hz at 145db

FWIW, you have a nice setup. What did you hit spl? Most ported people are looking for that.

I had the whole car dynomatted, I can't stand crap to rattle. Kicker SS components in the front doors, kick panels, and rear. Nothing in the hatch of course. TWo yellow tops, 275amp alternator from alterstart. (120amps at idle) Kicker 850.4 to power the 3 sets of compoents, kx2500 to power the pair of L7s. Strictly for sq, but the shop begged me to put the car into the show. You show up to one or two shows, kicker will pick you up for sponsorship I just never had the time. Headunit was a pioneer 7800dvd, and I experimented with the kenwood too. The model escapes me atm. The box was from subthump.com. Yes, it's a deep well box, you have to request it. BTW, 1.5cf per sub on the kicker l7s. The box just hits the minimal.

My car from many years ago was a tbird, put in 3 jlaudio w6s. It hit 145db on the old mics. It was pretty loud for the time. i have many others, and helped plenty of friends with others. I'm not brand loyal, plenty of nice equipment on the market today. Compeition of manufacturors is good.

 

i'm not contesting the box is important to the sound at all, someone twisted my words severely there.

what i was saying is that the hatch is enclosed enough to be sort of a box in itself, so if you utilize the hatch as a box you are likely going to get more resonance than just focusing only on a box and not the placement of the box.

even the guys that said they don't agree with me posted pictures of installs that are doing exactly what i'm saying as even though they aren't stealth boxes, they are pointing the subs down into the well of the hatch which creates more resonance than the box itself can make. don't believe me? open your hatch wide open, turn on the bass and sit in your car. now shut the hatch. the bass will increase tenfold because by shutting the hatch you are creating another box for the sub.

back to my original post, i still think the stealth boxes are a better option than the first pic posted by 94'BLKBRD where a sub box was just thrown into the back of the hatch because that is really a poor use of the hatch space as an enclosed space that can create more resonance.

 

Believe me, I KNOW THE DIFFERENCE IN FREQUENCY AND SPL!!!! I garuantee you my ONE L5 in the box posted above will hit WAY lower than your setup, NOT SLP, Im talking about lower! A ported box, given the available space, im ALWAYS going to hit LOWER AND produce more SLP than a sealed box. Trust me, I've been doing car audio since I was 10 years old. I KNOW WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT! My 94 Camaro is my SQ vehicle and my 98 is my street beat/SPL vehicle. I PROMISE you if you take 1 of your subs out and put a NICE square port tuned to about ~35hz, you will LOVE IT. Im not trying to be a dick, but really man you may have a better grasp of car audio than most, but you ARE wrong about this. YOU are the one who doesn't get it. I am always trying to help people out, and I will gladly help you understand, you just need to expand your horizons and let some knowledge in...

Oh and: "Let's give you an example since you don't seem to understand.


32hz at 165db
26hz at 150db
24hz at 145db"

^^ That doesn't make ANY sense.


But thank you for the compliment on my setup... Im actually about to start building my SPL box here pretty quick... Im doing 1 RE SXX 15" and a SS TRX2000D pushing it (The Kole has quite a bit of power, but im looking for more quality. And 2000RMS should be enough.) . Nothing like I had... But enough to lower my SPL class, which is what im trying to do.

Tuffluck:

What you are saying is a little off... The cabin of the car is like another "enclosure" I guess you could say, but its really just a "pressure chamber" kind of like the ported side of a bandpass box. Putting 2 stealth boxes in the car will create a TON of cancellation and is not a good idea. Don't get me wrong, it will sound good and hit decent, but not what it would or could in the same size box in the t-top area facing up towards the hatch.

 

Ok, where to start.

I too have been doing this forever it seems. Since the mid 80s. hands down, the equipment today is better, more efficienct and much cheaper.

32hz at 165db
26hz at 150db
24hz at 145db is referring to the frequency (hz is hertz), and the decible (db)

a single l5 ported in the box could potentially give me more spl, but will not reproduce lower notes better than a sealed pair of 15" L7s.

You are off your rocker. Unless you are running a spectrum analyser, you are not testing your system frequency range. If you have the power and you want to increase your spl, replace the L5 with a solox. But last I checked there's everything but 15s. If I'm not mistaken, there's a 3cf is needed for the 12" solox to work.

I've almost done it. Was going to run a pair, the shop talked me out of them, told me unless you want pure spl don't bother. But on the other hand, i've read about a few cars tuning them for SQ. It just depends on what you want.
Out of curoisity, what are you tuning with?

Now sadly, I've got rid of the car, I still have all the crap as you can by my sig. I've pondered what to do next. I have tons of pics on the car still. I have lots of all the setups. I did a quad cab in a truck, ran two kicker L7s with a 1200.1 amp on each sub. With the right tune, never blew a thing up. I'd say about 140db plus or minus 5. I'm tone def now, rofl. I always say that, but you are too I'm sure, rofl.

Too much damn music. I listen to everything is why I went to a sealed box. From country to rap of course. But mostly country lately.

Now, I'm pondering dropping in my 15" L7s in my dodge nitro. Plenty of room. I have my two 12" L7s in there now. No professional tunes other than manual. I miss the tuning software. I've pondered investing into it again. But I don't have time for shows anymore. I sure do miss it. But I've always had deep pockets, it's an addictive hobby.

 

i have two stealth boxes and it hits very hard and it is a clean hit. i would not want anymore. i have 1200 watts going to two 10's and the bass is turned down to -2 on my amp and there really is no necessary reason to have any more thump unless i really upgraded my components and powered them heavier than 150 watts. plenty loud for me. also i like the space in the trunk to use, as well as the covert look. i live in an apartment complex and would not want any stereo equipment to be visible where someone could easily steal it if they wanted to. my setup is completely invisible to anyone looking in the car.

 

The world would be a boring place if everyone had the same opinion.

Happy Holidays to all!

 

HAPPY HOLIDAYS! lol

But "32hz at 165db
26hz at 150db
24hz at 145db is referring to the frequency (hz is hertz), and the decible (db)"

I know what the hell hz and db are. My point is that saying a frequency at a certian sound pressure is stupid and pointless. Now saying 148 @ 45 hz makes sense and has some logic to it. Saying that is like going to the track and saying "I ran .18 miles at 13 seconds." That doesn't mean ****. Sure, it is a possible measure, but pointless.

And YES, ONE 12" L5 will hit MUCH LOWER in a box properly tuned to a low frequency compared to your 15's. IM NOT TALKING ABOUT SPL Im willing to bet I can hit notes WAY lower than yours, AND be louder doing it. It would produce MUCH lower notes. Period. Just the fact that you put 2 L7 15's in 3.0 ft^3 proves that you don't know anything about SQ or SPL, because that won't produce either, reletively speaking. Ignorance is not a goos thing. Please go educate yourself.

 

You are too much, you never put in a SQ audio track and ran a analyser, it clearly shows.

Porting gives volume (if you have the space), sealed gives lower frequency. Adding more subs adds spl. There's a combination of each. I have no desire to have 150db at 45hz. Again, it's clear you never tested any of it. And you are tuning your port for 32hz. So all your spl will be in a higher range.

Until you run an sq sound track from one of the shows and run an analyser, you shoudn't even be commenting. You can pick them up at termlabs or any of the other companies. They provide last years SQ cds. Of course they won't tell you want they are using each year. But the old stuff is enough to get an idea.

SQ comes in any form, just as SPL does too. As one guy has said, it's nice to see the different setups. EVeryone builds to their budget or to their style of music.

Again, if you want more spl, you should be using a solox in that box. It's obvious you bought what you could afford. And there's nothing wrong with that. Even a L7 has major improvements over the L5. Solox has a crap loads of awards. I'm sure that's why they keep making them.

If you want to chit chat more, send me a pm. I'll let you talk to some of the shops. Sadly, I got rid of the old setup, now I just can't make up my mind what to do next.

I've been eyeing up the kicker warhorse.

But I can't find a replacement alt for my damn vehicle. Might have to get it rewound. Sadly, the amp specifies two alternators and 200amp minimal per or was it 250. It's allot eitherway. Was pondering the one 18 solox or two 12 solox's. It's a hobby, I enjoy it.

Of course, I have to tell my wife the warhorse is about $3500. Way too much, and i'm sure she would ring my neck, lol. Perhaps I could do another 2500. It's addictive alright. On that other hand, I could do my 1200.1 and build a larger ported box for a pair of 12L7s. I did that in my truck, rofl. When I was bored of 10s, i threw in two 12" L7s in the ported prefabbed box from kicker and unplugged the 10s. That was pretty damn loud too.

It just never ends, endless choices! I really enjoy kicker stuff. I've enjoy JL also. But it's whatever I get the best deal on. Hell, even fosgate stuff is acceptable to.

And Merry Christmas!