Hardwiring radar detector
12-17-2009, 05:01 PM
#1
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Hardwiring radar detector I could probably comb the net and figure this out, but by asking here maybe can enlighten some others as well.
I have the wires all run, up the A pillar etc, looks very clean, mounting it up by the power mirror.
I was looking to tap the radio power wire near the inside fuse box but the back of that is a bitch to get to, so I can't exactly follow the wires from the back of the box. I also have my PAC swi tapped to the radio power so here's the questions.
1. Would it be too much to have the PAC and the radar detector both tapped to the single power wire?
2. Would I be better off tapping the cig lighter and putting a 2 way switch afterwards?
I'm a total electric noob but I like doin things myself, preferably the right way the first time)
aiming so it powers on and off as the car does
thx
I have the wires all run, up the A pillar etc, looks very clean, mounting it up by the power mirror.
I was looking to tap the radio power wire near the inside fuse box but the back of that is a bitch to get to, so I can't exactly follow the wires from the back of the box. I also have my PAC swi tapped to the radio power so here's the questions.
1. Would it be too much to have the PAC and the radar detector both tapped to the single power wire?
2. Would I be better off tapping the cig lighter and putting a 2 way switch afterwards?
I'm a total electric noob but I like doin things myself, preferably the right way the first time)
aiming so it powers on and off as the car does
thx
12-18-2009, 07:38 AM
#4
The photos don't load for me either. But in any case, that's not the proper way to wire an accessory. You have the right idea with using the dash fuse panel - you're just thinking about the wrong side.
There are three ports on the front of the fuse panel that were designed by GM for adding electrical accessories. They take quick disconnect plugs (flat, like half of a fuse) and are 15 amp circuits. They are labeled IGN, BATT, and ACCY. The IGN port provides ignition switched power. The BATT port provides constant (battery) power. The ACCY port provides RAP (Retained Accessory Power) power like your radio - it goes on with the ignition but stays on after the car is shut off until a door is opened.
You can crimp (or better yet, solder) a quick disconnect connector on the end of your FUSED power wire for your accessory. Remove the bolt holding the fuse panel so that you can feed the wire to the front of the fuse panel from behind the dash. Plug the wire into the appropriate port, bolt the fuse panel back and you're done.
Even though those ports are fused, you should always include an inline fuse of appropriate size for the accessory and the wire gauge you connect. For example, your radar detector probably has a small current draw (maybe 3 amps) so leaving it on a 15-amp circuit without protecting it with a smaller fuse could lead to problems.
There are three ports on the front of the fuse panel that were designed by GM for adding electrical accessories. They take quick disconnect plugs (flat, like half of a fuse) and are 15 amp circuits. They are labeled IGN, BATT, and ACCY. The IGN port provides ignition switched power. The BATT port provides constant (battery) power. The ACCY port provides RAP (Retained Accessory Power) power like your radio - it goes on with the ignition but stays on after the car is shut off until a door is opened.
You can crimp (or better yet, solder) a quick disconnect connector on the end of your FUSED power wire for your accessory. Remove the bolt holding the fuse panel so that you can feed the wire to the front of the fuse panel from behind the dash. Plug the wire into the appropriate port, bolt the fuse panel back and you're done.
Even though those ports are fused, you should always include an inline fuse of appropriate size for the accessory and the wire gauge you connect. For example, your radar detector probably has a small current draw (maybe 3 amps) so leaving it on a 15-amp circuit without protecting it with a smaller fuse could lead to problems.
12-18-2009, 09:48 AM
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That sounds more like the way i'd want to do it. I've got the inline fuse and all. Got a link or pic of the quick disconnect thingy? Not sure what I'm lookin for exactly.
12-18-2009, 10:31 AM
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I think you only have to comb this subforum.
Mine is wired into the mirror, "retained power"
circuit. I didn't take pictures. Shop manual sez
Blu/Wht is power and Blk is ground, up there
(pg 8-220).
Mine is wired into the mirror, "retained power"
circuit. I didn't take pictures. Shop manual sez
Blu/Wht is power and Blk is ground, up there
(pg 8-220).
12-18-2009, 12:00 PM
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some detectors make hard-wire kits with crimp connectors attached. i believe my escort hard-wire kit did. the fuse is also inline when you buy these kits. i find they are worth the $20-30 they cost.
