Driver's side Sail Panel Blew
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 524
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, Texas
Driver's side Sail Panel Blew I need a replacement and was wondering what I need to be looking for?
I was thinking a fatory replacement but I saw KEE's factory upgrade package.
How easy is it to install and is it worth the money?
I was thinking a fatory replacement but I saw KEE's factory upgrade package.
How easy is it to install and is it worth the money?
I have the Kee Audio Standard Speaker package, it's definitely better than stock. You really can't go wrong for that price and they're all easy to install (sail panels are a bit tricky).
Sail panels can be made a little easier by using a #6 speednut instead of the stock ones. These bring the holes inward just slightly to line them up better.
Another option is to use self tap screws and make your own as well. The #6 speednuts work well though.
Another option is to use self tap screws and make your own as well. The #6 speednuts work well though.
the bazookas from Kee. I have those installed with my factory head unit and wow what a difference. I am in the process of changing the entire system out but tried these with the stock amp and head unit just for fun. I am really impressed with the quality of the bazookas. You cant go wrong with them.
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You'll be fine. The bazookas are all you need. Here's the install: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ll-w-pics.html
The most challenging part is re-soldering the wire harness to the new speakers. From there, you just need the new speed units and to rip the washers off the old bolts. Then, you are golden.
Others have put some sound insulation behind the new speakers and are said to have gotten even better results.
The most challenging part is re-soldering the wire harness to the new speakers. From there, you just need the new speed units and to rip the washers off the old bolts. Then, you are golden.
Others have put some sound insulation behind the new speakers and are said to have gotten even better results.
I sure hope they are in great shape, they are brand new!! LOL!!
Anyway, just cut the connectors off the old stock subs and attach them to the Bazookas using either solder or crimp on connectors...which ever your more comfortable with. Then you can plug them back into the stock harness.
Anyway, just cut the connectors off the old stock subs and attach them to the Bazookas using either solder or crimp on connectors...which ever your more comfortable with. Then you can plug them back into the stock harness.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 524
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, Texas
I sure hope they are in great shape, they are brand new!! LOL!!
Anyway, just cut the connectors off the old stock subs and attach them to the Bazookas using either solder or crimp on connectors...which ever your more comfortable with. Then you can plug them back into the stock harness.
Anyway, just cut the connectors off the old stock subs and attach them to the Bazookas using either solder or crimp on connectors...which ever your more comfortable with. Then you can plug them back into the stock harness.
Theoretically, they can't produce any more bass/bump. (They can... but not anything that will be noticable.) Its a function of the size of the speaker and physics.
The quality and clarity should be much better. They are on my install.
If you thought the old ones hit harder, maybe it was because of all the rattling around and vibration from the tear?
The quality and clarity should be much better. They are on my install.
If you thought the old ones hit harder, maybe it was because of all the rattling around and vibration from the tear?