Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

In the heat mine just won't work. I know a kit existed at one point that supposedly fixed it. I don't know it may be poor factory connections at the switches too but I get so frustrated with it I have to do something.

Klimaxx

iTrader: (1)

your motors sound like they are on there way out..pull your door panel and lube all the tracks/guides, if they still are slow, its probibly new window motor time..

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Are you asking about the AutoTrix window fix? They are still available...I just installed mine this past spring, and it made a world of difference on the passenger side.

GSus

iTrader: (2)

I just did a motor swap and the auto trix at the same time. What a pita, but it works...Shouldn't have to worry about the passenger window for quite a while now.

Oh yeah... http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2055

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

I replaced them last year and use the car very little. When it is cooler they seem to work okay but on hot days hardly nothing.

shaun

i did the autotrix mod and it works real good window is faster than my drivers side.

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

Mine seems to be the opposite of everyone else. My passenger side window is faster than my drivers side. Always has been, but recently my drivers side has stopped working every once in a while. Doesn't happen too often, but sometimes it will just stop when I'm trying to roll it up. I'll have to wait a minute and fidget around with the switch to get it up again. Is my motor on its way out?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Yes...this is a sign that the driver's side motor is going to ****. When they start going bad, they generate more heat than they should - the window motor has an internal thermal resistor that acts as a circuit breaker. As the motor gets older, it doesn't work as well as it should, so it generates more heat in the process of pushing these heavy *** windows up - more heat trips the thermal resistor, stopping the window motor from completely overheating (and unfortunately stops the window motor right in its tracks). That's why you have to wait a few seconds before it will let you resume putting the window up. This problem will only get worse as you go.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Has anyone actually measured voltages at the switch and at the motor? Reason I ask is one time when I had these issues I took the switch panel out of the driver side and moved the connector a little and it went right down. Almost like a poor contact type of thing.

I can't see an overheating in the first 2 seconds of trying to put your window down for the first time (given it doesn't even try to move).

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

When I first got my car, my driver window motor was gone. Passenger was OK. Replaced the driver motor. Well, last summer my passenger window was barely making it to the top. Got the autotrix kit for it, and bam it is like new and faster than the driver side.

Now my driver's side is going out, again. It was a cheap motor... I'm holding out on getting the kit for it however because the one for the driver side costs a whole lot more due to the express down and I'm not planning on having this car much longer.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

So is it a voltage problem there? Guess one day when it cools down I will have to get a meter and play with it after taking the door panel off.

What voltage does the motor see with the Autotrix? How about factory?

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

It looks like most all GM vehicles have this problem. Here are some fixes (especially the first one) which uses a jumper on the test port and a replacment at the fuse box to a fuse instead of breaker. Can someone verify if our motors are laid out the same and also the other two fixes in this thread:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/gen...r-windows.html

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Anyone looking at this? If we can figure out the voltage loss Casper's will make a kit for both doors.

N20addiction

iTrader: (2)

i dont know about the voltage loss but thats the same window motor on the buick forum as the camaro/transams, i know because i have like 6 of em, and from what i read it should work and it wont hurt to try it

N20addiction

iTrader: (2)

i wired it up the way it says in the buick forum, the motor was slow b4 i wired it and then one i wired it with the jumper wire it started going quite a bit faster, i havent finished yet, i havent mounted the motor back into the track yet but im going to do it tomorrow after work and ill let u know if it works -Intercooler2

Heres some pics of it wired up

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Cool! Did you do it based off the info I found on the Buick site or did you already know about this?

Seems many ways to "Skin A Cat" when I research. We have:

- Autotrix kit which puts 12V to the passenger side door motor right off the battery through a new relay. Correct?

- We have a Buick modification of a jumper wire at each individual motor by bypassing something?

- We have taking the motors apart and desoldering from the internal metal bar located inside installing a straight 8 AWG wire in it's place.

Everything is to get more power to the motor. What seems to be the most logical and safe route?

Mike on the Buick board (Turbbuick.Com) seems to be a GM/electrical guy so I keep asking questions about his mod. I guess when I get a good feel I will try one or wait to hear the results here. If that Buick mod works well maybe it can be added as a sticky.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Here is another:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/gen...eferrerid=3922

In my search I found a thread here where a member took the motor apart, eliminated the bar inside the motor and put an 8 AWG wire in place of it. I think this bypass works the same without all the work and may be possible without even taking the motor out with a 90 drill/screwdriver.

Can't wait to see the results. Would love to see before after videos if anyone does this!

Also don't know if this makes what appears like a non-working motor into a working motor like a magic trick. If anyone finds out post up!

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for trying this! So you just crimp on to the grey wire only? Can you give us a step by step for each door and the parts you used if it is a success? Thanks!

N20addiction

iTrader: (2)

you crimp the brown wire on the connector, ill give you a step by step when i get off work in a few hours

ShowstoppaTransAm

man i had a shop put the autotrix on my 2001 Trans Am plus the auto up down on the passenger side. now mines dead i guess i'm lucky it died while it was up. i'm suppose to take it back to the shop that did it. I'm hoping it's just a loose connection or something