HID conversion - 98 Bird
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HID conversion - 98 Bird So the time as finally come, I have the LMC housings for the 9005 bulb, and I also have the fogs switched out to an after market housing.
I was wondering what you guys would recommend in terms of an HID conversion kit, I'm looking for the maximum wattage I can get. I plan on doing a Heavy Duty wire upgrade as well, with 3 relays total (Highs, Lows, Fogs) to get the maximum current needed.
What kits would recommend that have some good ballasts, bulbs, etc. That are "high wattage". So no 35w H3s please
The housings can take whatever you want to throw at them wattage-wise, all metal construction with a glass lens.
I was wondering what you guys would recommend in terms of an HID conversion kit, I'm looking for the maximum wattage I can get. I plan on doing a Heavy Duty wire upgrade as well, with 3 relays total (Highs, Lows, Fogs) to get the maximum current needed.
What kits would recommend that have some good ballasts, bulbs, etc. That are "high wattage". So no 35w H3s please
The housings can take whatever you want to throw at them wattage-wise, all metal construction with a glass lens.
Since most HID's are the same, the kit with the lowest price and the best warranty is the way to go. I've bought quite a few Ebay kits and never had any problems with them. I have 35w HID's and they are more than bright enough, just make sure you get 4300K or 5000K for maximum light output.
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I've been casually looking around the net for some, most of the kits I've seen jump from 4300 to 6000 to 8000k... so I was going to go with the 6000, while I've seen bulbs @ 5500k and thats probably my favorite temp. of light
Do you, or anyone else here on the forum, know of any ~50w H3 kits
and >55w kits for the 9005/9006 housing?
Do you, or anyone else here on the forum, know of any ~50w H3 kits
and >55w kits for the 9005/9006 housing?
Higher wattage shortens bulb and ballast life, plus the kits cost more since very few places sell them. Spencers HID sells them but their prices are ridiculous. If you can't see the road with a 35w kit you shouldn't be driving.
http://www.spencershids.com/
http://www.spencershids.com/
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lol... There may be alternative reasons to me asking the question
Bulb life isn't an issue really.. I have a set of 100w halogens in there no, and I want to see a difference vs that, so this is why I'm asking for the higher wattages.
I was blown away vs the 55/65w difference in the stock bulbs.
And as for the website, I'll have to take a look around here!
Thanks.
Still open for any alternative suggestions though!
Also... anyone know the difference between 'regular' HIDs and Digital HIDs?
Bulb life isn't an issue really.. I have a set of 100w halogens in there no, and I want to see a difference vs that, so this is why I'm asking for the higher wattages.
I was blown away vs the 55/65w difference in the stock bulbs.
And as for the website, I'll have to take a look around here!
Thanks.
Still open for any alternative suggestions though!
Also... anyone know the difference between 'regular' HIDs and Digital HIDs?
Last edited by Fosnot; Feb 14, 2011 at 11:35 PM.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
HID "upgrade" kits that put HID capsules in halogen reflectors are illegal and dangerous. The light source is positioned differently so the combination causes light scatter and glare. But I'm sure you knew that and don't care.
So maybe you didn't know this... the most effective light temperature for visibility is 4300K-4500K. That's why all OEM HIDs use that temperature. At 8000K you lose about 28% of the effective light compared to 4300K. Anything higher than that and you might as well have stayed with halogen bulbs for the usable light they produce. Sure they look brighter but that's just because your eyes are affected by the glare.
55W HIDs are a gimmick. With a properly aimed HID projector housing, you won't even see the difference between 35W and 55W because the light is so well focused. Of course it will make a difference when misused in a halogen reflector - it will make even more dangerous glare for other drivers.
So maybe you didn't know this... the most effective light temperature for visibility is 4300K-4500K. That's why all OEM HIDs use that temperature. At 8000K you lose about 28% of the effective light compared to 4300K. Anything higher than that and you might as well have stayed with halogen bulbs for the usable light they produce. Sure they look brighter but that's just because your eyes are affected by the glare.
55W HIDs are a gimmick. With a properly aimed HID projector housing, you won't even see the difference between 35W and 55W because the light is so well focused. Of course it will make a difference when misused in a halogen reflector - it will make even more dangerous glare for other drivers.
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crazy ! my HID kits arrived to Cyprus in a week or so from DDM tuning.. My order was processed and shipped in 3 days .. and .I havent had any problems with both my kits..
I run 6000K lows and 8000K fogs .. but for max visibility , dont go over 6000K ..
I run 6000K lows and 8000K fogs .. but for max visibility , dont go over 6000K ..
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HID "upgrade" kits that put HID capsules in halogen reflectors are illegal and dangerous. The light source is positioned differently so the combination causes light scatter and glare. But I'm sure you knew that and don't care.
So maybe you didn't know this... the most effective light temperature for visibility is 4300K-4500K. That's why all OEM HIDs use that temperature. At 8000K you lose about 28% of the effective light compared to 4300K. Anything higher than that and you might as well have stayed with halogen bulbs for the usable light they produce. Sure they look brighter but that's just because your eyes are affected by the glare.
55W HIDs are a gimmick. With a properly aimed HID projector housing, you won't even see the difference between 35W and 55W because the light is so well focused. Of course it will make a difference when misused in a halogen reflector - it will make even more dangerous glare for other drivers.
So maybe you didn't know this... the most effective light temperature for visibility is 4300K-4500K. That's why all OEM HIDs use that temperature. At 8000K you lose about 28% of the effective light compared to 4300K. Anything higher than that and you might as well have stayed with halogen bulbs for the usable light they produce. Sure they look brighter but that's just because your eyes are affected by the glare.
55W HIDs are a gimmick. With a properly aimed HID projector housing, you won't even see the difference between 35W and 55W because the light is so well focused. Of course it will make a difference when misused in a halogen reflector - it will make even more dangerous glare for other drivers.
Yeah, I know about the color, can't seem to find a kit that is 5000k, jumps right to 6.
So you're saying the LMC housing doesn't work for HIDs?
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Most manufacturers don't bother with 5000K because the difference between them and 4300K on one end or 6000K on the other end would be unnoticeable. 6000K is somewhat whiter than 4300K without significant blue tint and is only about 10% less effective than 4300K.
Honestly if you are going through all that work, either make your own projector kit, or buy the BLS kit. With the LMC housings you will not pass inspection, you will constantly get dirty looks from other driver's or get "fix it" tickets, and they are worthless if you aim them to prevent blinding others, because at that point you only light about 20 feet of the road in front of you.
The previous owner had them in the '99 Formula I have, I didn't like them, for one they were too blue. After my brother wrecked the car, my choice was either to buy 2 new headlight assemblies from a junkyard for $500, or spend the extra cash and do it right to have something TRULY better than stock lighting with no drawbacks and get the BLS kit.
Even if you can't do the BLS kit, you can still piece your own together from factory parts scavenged from the junkyard. Just do yourself a favor and don't go with the cheap LMC/HID set up. You'll just be redoing it down the road, either to dismiss a ticket, or because you realize it wasn't as good as people say.
The previous owner had them in the '99 Formula I have, I didn't like them, for one they were too blue. After my brother wrecked the car, my choice was either to buy 2 new headlight assemblies from a junkyard for $500, or spend the extra cash and do it right to have something TRULY better than stock lighting with no drawbacks and get the BLS kit.
Even if you can't do the BLS kit, you can still piece your own together from factory parts scavenged from the junkyard. Just do yourself a favor and don't go with the cheap LMC/HID set up. You'll just be redoing it down the road, either to dismiss a ticket, or because you realize it wasn't as good as people say.
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Honestly if you are going through all that work, either make your own projector kit, or buy the BLS kit. With the LMC housings you will not pass inspection, you will constantly get dirty looks from other driver's or get "fix it" tickets, and they are worthless if you aim them to prevent blinding others, because at that point you only light about 20 feet of the road in front of you.
The previous owner had them in the '99 Formula I have, I didn't like them, for one they were too blue. After my brother wrecked the car, my choice was either to buy 2 new headlight assemblies from a junkyard for $500, or spend the extra cash and do it right to have something TRULY better than stock lighting with no drawbacks and get the BLS kit.
Even if you can't do the BLS kit, you can still piece your own together from factory parts scavenged from the junkyard. Just do yourself a favor and don't go with the cheap LMC/HID set up. You'll just be redoing it down the road, either to dismiss a ticket, or because you realize it wasn't as good as people say.
The previous owner had them in the '99 Formula I have, I didn't like them, for one they were too blue. After my brother wrecked the car, my choice was either to buy 2 new headlight assemblies from a junkyard for $500, or spend the extra cash and do it right to have something TRULY better than stock lighting with no drawbacks and get the BLS kit.
Even if you can't do the BLS kit, you can still piece your own together from factory parts scavenged from the junkyard. Just do yourself a favor and don't go with the cheap LMC/HID set up. You'll just be redoing it down the road, either to dismiss a ticket, or because you realize it wasn't as good as people say.
I was looking at making my own projector kit, but I lack several tools key to ensuring longevity of the housing.
Eventually...
Lmc housings come with nice sylvania halogen bulbs. Just don't throw them away and on the way to court for the fix it, unplug the hid and twist in the halogen. Takes 5 minutes and your legal! Ps doubt anyone is gonna get a ticket as long as you keep the Kelvin In range. 5 6 7 k.
The problem we are having with ddm is they claim 7 colors and only sell 4. It sucks but other than that they are ok. Supposedly a the End of feb. They will no longer sell hids anyway, Probobly because of the bait and switch lawsuit.
The problem we are having with ddm is they claim 7 colors and only sell 4. It sucks but other than that they are ok. Supposedly a the End of feb. They will no longer sell hids anyway, Probobly because of the bait and switch lawsuit.
decent cutoff, lol, that picture shows the glare on the top of the lights.
Do it right with projectors, I had around $320 in my hella 90mm conversion, and to be honest the prjectors made all of the difference, I did not notice much difference in the HID's other than the "cool" factor that I added 1 year later.
Ryan
Do it right with projectors, I had around $320 in my hella 90mm conversion, and to be honest the prjectors made all of the difference, I did not notice much difference in the HID's other than the "cool" factor that I added 1 year later.
Ryan
Just installed my 4500k 35w HIDs from DDM. They took over a month to come, they buzz until they are warmed up, but the ballast is so tiny, and they work great! Overall, so far, I recommend them.