how to wire dvc sub at 4 ohms?
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
how to wire dvc sub at 4 ohms? I just got a new audiopipe amp along with a kee audio stealth box. I have a Memphis m3 10" sub rated at 2 ohms and it is dual voice coil. The amp can do 1 ohm, 2 ohm, or 4 ohm stable. For best performance and lowest wattage (950 rms amp at 4 ohms to 300 rms rated sub lol) I want to run it at 4 ohms. I just don't know how to wire it like that. The way it was set up before with the old box plus another sub, the pos and neg went to their terminals, then two wires jumped to the matching terminals on the other voice coil. I can't really think of another way to connect them?
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From: Oklahoma City, OK/North Long Beach/Paramount, CA
I just got a new audiopipe amp along with a kee audio stealth box. I have a Memphis m3 10" sub rated at 2 ohms and it is dual voice coil. The amp can do 1 ohm, 2 ohm, or 4 ohm stable. For best performance and lowest wattage (950 rms amp at 4 ohms to 300 rms rated sub lol) I want to run it at 4 ohms. I just don't know how to wire it like that. The way it was set up before with the old box plus another sub, the pos and neg went to their terminals, then two wires jumped to the matching terminals on the other voice coil. I can't really think of another way to connect them?
If it is 2 x 2ohm then you can wire it like this to achieve your 4ohm load:
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...2-ohm_mono.jpg
If you have a 2 x 4ohm then you will not be able to wire it to a 4ohm load. Only a 2ohm or 8ohm load.
You can also turn down the gain on the amp so that you are not pushing the sub as hard even at lower impedance levels. So even at say a 1ohm load, if the amp is not at full gain you will not be pushing the sub or the amp as hard and save your sub.
If for some reason you don't find the part number or model number you can always use a multimeter set to ohm and check the pos and neg terminals. They should read close to whatever they are rated....either 2 or 4 ohm per coil. That can tell you for sure what they are. It can also help you verify that you have the coils wired properly when you do the install if you have any questions.
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Yea I got everything hooked up correctly. I am happy with the sound output. It's not quite as loud as I want, you can tell it really wants a port lol but it's still loud enough for me. Can't expect huge sound like my other gigantic box put out. I would run it at 2 ohms but the amp puts out like 1250 watts at 2 ohms, I don't think the sub will be able to handle that much power. The screw for one of the terminals actually broke on me as I was tightening it...I didn't think I even turned it that hard. I ended up just soldering both ends to the prong/tab thing the screw/nut was holding on. I also had to trim the side of the hole for the sub, so that the basket would clear and the sub would sit flush.
One thing I am concerned about is if I take a hard left turn I don't know if the box/sub will stay put in that little cubby lol. I'm afraid it will fly out into the hatch, since there isn't much holding it in place other than a small piece of trim. Maybe I'm just being crazy though?
One thing I am concerned about is if I take a hard left turn I don't know if the box/sub will stay put in that little cubby lol. I'm afraid it will fly out into the hatch, since there isn't much holding it in place other than a small piece of trim. Maybe I'm just being crazy though?
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They fit pretty tight in there. I used to drive pretty aggressively and never had one come out on me. That included a quick 180 here and there and a few a$$ out sideways moves from time to time.
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