Stereo help for fbodys
03-21-2012, 03:05 PM
#1
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Stereo help for fbodys hello I have an 02 ws6 that has the stock Monsoon headunit. My question is simple, would it be better to use the stock monsoon head unit or an aftermarket headunit that has 50watts? basicly which head unit has more watts? how much watts does the monsson have thanks and god bless
03-21-2012, 05:11 PM
#3
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Not sure why you're so concerned about wattage on the HU. Regardless of what the Monsoon HU is rated for, it will distort more than virtually any aftermarket HU at higher volume levels.
03-22-2012, 05:32 PM
#4
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Get an aftermarket HU, I wish I would have done that YEARS ago. I upgraded speakers/amps first. It was an improvement but sound was still not up to full potential until I finally cracked and got a single DIN HU. Did I mention that I really wish I changed the HU YEARS ago?
03-22-2012, 06:09 PM
#5
if you want to use power from an aftermarket deck your going to need a new set of components for the front and an amp to run your stock "subs", or just add a new one. I like the Alpine MRP-F300 ($200 retail, $125 is a good deal) for a budget amp and they still are nice sounding amps...you would end up using 2 channels for each sub and the other 2 for the fronts and just deck power for the rears
bypassing your factory amp will improve SQ and volume if done right without a doubt
bypassing your factory amp will improve SQ and volume if done right without a doubt
03-22-2012, 07:17 PM
#7
Heck I got better sound quality than stock with a simple head unit driving a set of simple aftermarket speakers directly (bypassed monsoon amp entirely). I had simple 2 way 6.5" coax Pioneers in the front doors, some 6x8 Pioneers from my old car shoehorned in the hatch, threw some 6.5" mini subs I had lying around in the sail panels, and hooked up a basic MTX 200W amp to them. Sounded so much better than the Monsoon, especially since it was half dead already. Pretty sad that a half scrape parts audio system had more punch and clarity 
I plan on having something a little nicer in my new Camaro. I have a little more money to play with (yay for a real job) so I'll be doing things right next time around.
I plan on having something a little nicer in my new Camaro. I have a little more money to play with (yay for a real job) so I'll be doing things right next time around.
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03-22-2012, 07:23 PM
#8
Heck I got better sound quality than stock with a simple head unit driving a set of simple aftermarket speakers directly (bypassed monsoon amp entirely). I had simple 2 way 6.5" coax Pioneers in the front doors, some 6x8 Pioneers from my old car shoehorned in the hatch, threw some 6.5" mini subs I had lying around in the sail panels, and hooked up a basic MTX 200W amp to them. Sounded so much better than the Monsoon, especially since it was half dead already. Pretty sad that a half scrape parts audio system had more punch and clarity
I plan on having something a little nicer in my new Camaro. I have a little more money to play with (yay for a real job) so I'll be doing things right next time around.
I plan on having something a little nicer in my new Camaro. I have a little more money to play with (yay for a real job) so I'll be doing things right next time around.
03-22-2012, 07:36 PM
#9
the internal amp in a deck is very similar to what would be in a stock "premium audio" amp like monsoon and bose and even in super high end factory systems like B&O. they use the same method and technology as a deck. for aftermarket speakers the deck power would probly be better than the stock amp solely because of the resistance (ohms) that the stock amp requires, but the best way to power speakers is with a real amp.
03-22-2012, 07:56 PM
#10
only if your looking to add an amp for the subs, and if you get a 4 channel you could put your front speakers on a real amp too.
the internal amp in a deck is very similar to what would be in a stock "premium audio" amp like monsoon and bose and even in super high end factory systems like B&O. they use the same method and technology as a deck. for aftermarket speakers the deck power would probly be better than the stock amp solely because of the resistance (ohms) that the stock amp requires, but the best way to power speakers is with a real amp.
the internal amp in a deck is very similar to what would be in a stock "premium audio" amp like monsoon and bose and even in super high end factory systems like B&O. they use the same method and technology as a deck. for aftermarket speakers the deck power would probly be better than the stock amp solely because of the resistance (ohms) that the stock amp requires, but the best way to power speakers is with a real amp.
03-22-2012, 08:08 PM
#11
if your gonna get big subs then yea get a 5 channel, but if your just gonna use the stock subs or replace them with other 6.5s than a 4 channel is all you need, deck power is more than adequate for rear speakers. if your going to get a deck with time alignment and use a real amp for the fronts, i wouldn't even waist my money on rear speakers, i build $15k systems without rear speakers all the time
03-22-2012, 09:17 PM
#12
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If you have a Pontiac (or Chevy) monsoon system, you don't need to rewire anything to drive the tweeters in the same way the OEM HU does it.
03-22-2012, 11:21 PM
#13
if your gonna get big subs then yea get a 5 channel, but if your just gonna use the stock subs or replace them with other 6.5s than a 4 channel is all you need, deck power is more than adequate for rear speakers. if your going to get a deck with time alignment and use a real amp for the fronts, i wouldn't even waist my money on rear speakers, i build $15k systems without rear speakers all the time
03-23-2012, 07:37 AM
#14
First of all, your HU does not produce 50 watts RMS - probably 50 watts peak with between 14 and 22 watts RMS. So the Monsoon amp will give you more power than the HU alone.
As several have suggested, the best results will come from replacing everything. That includes adding your own aftermarket amp to go along with a new HU and speakers.
However, if you want to keep costs down, replacing the HU and speakers but keeping the Monsoon amp and wiring will give you the best bang for the buck. The Monsoon amp is not particularly powerful but it's more than HU alone and it produces clean sound when given a clean signal. It has some odd speaker requirements (especially the sail panel subs) but there are speaker packages available that match the original setup with much better sound.
The only exception to HU only versus HU with Monsoon amp is if you insist on using speakers that don't match the factory configuration. For example, installing four full-range coaxial speakers in the doors and sail panels won't work with a stock Monsoon setup. But why anybody would want to do that is beyond me.
03-23-2012, 10:11 AM
#15
The only exception to HU only versus HU with Monsoon amp is if you insist on using speakers that don't match the factory configuration. For example, installing four full-range coaxial speakers in the doors and sail panels won't work with a stock Monsoon setup. But why anybody would want to do that is beyond me.
-I know that you're probably refering to the keeaudio packages, I emailed him already so that I can plance an order, at this point I want to keep it as simple as possible
and it seems like getting a package running it off the monsoon and getting a small digital amp for a 10inch woofer in the back is the best way to go .
03-23-2012, 10:19 AM
#16
There is a way you can run full-range speakers all around without losing the Monsoon amp. It's not ideal because of the way it uses the amp's channels and most audiophiles will tell you it's not good to have full-range speakers behind you... but it does work.
What you do is disconnect the hatch area speakers and pull the signal wires from there forward to the sail panels. Those wires (the single pair in a Camaro or the pair from the 4" mids in a Firebird) carry full-range signal that can run something like 6.5" coaxials in the sail panels. In the doors you can either run coaxials off the mid wiring and leave the tweeter wiring disconnected or some coaxial speakers can be modified to make them work like components. This configuration will give up considerable bass compared to the factory setup so you may want to consider adding a sub in the back to compensate.
What you do is disconnect the hatch area speakers and pull the signal wires from there forward to the sail panels. Those wires (the single pair in a Camaro or the pair from the 4" mids in a Firebird) carry full-range signal that can run something like 6.5" coaxials in the sail panels. In the doors you can either run coaxials off the mid wiring and leave the tweeter wiring disconnected or some coaxial speakers can be modified to make them work like components. This configuration will give up considerable bass compared to the factory setup so you may want to consider adding a sub in the back to compensate.
03-23-2012, 11:48 AM
#17
Reason I bypassed my monsoon amp and ran the 4 speakers off the HU directly was I got tired of the muddy sound from having coax speakers up front but having only the midrange signal going to them. Plus my speakers I had were 4 ohm, head unit was 4 ohm, and the monsoon was a 2 ohm amp.
03-27-2012, 12:01 PM
#18
if you want to use power from an aftermarket deck your going to need a new set of components for the front and an amp to run your stock "subs", or just add a new one. I like the Alpine MRP-F300 ($200 retail, $125 is a good deal) for a budget amp and they still are nice sounding amps...you would end up using 2 channels for each sub and the other 2 for the fronts and just deck power for the rears
bypassing your factory amp will improve SQ and volume if done right without a doubt
bypassing your factory amp will improve SQ and volume if done right without a doubt
I will most likely just do that replace all speakers and add a 5 channel amp, so I just have to find the cheapest best bang for buck way to do that
03-28-2012, 11:21 AM
#19
The 1st gen PDX-5 is total crap. There's a new PDX-v9 coming out that has the same power as the JL HD900/5 and costs the same as the old PDX-5 (100x4 + 500x1, $699.99 retail) and that would sound way better...if that's more than your looking for do the MRX-V50 which has the same power as the PDX-5 and costs almost half. 5 channels are good for conserving space and adding simplicity, but you usually get more for the same money with 2 separate amps...except that new PDX-v9 seems to be quite a good value
03-29-2012, 05:14 PM
#20
The 1st gen PDX-5 is total crap. There's a new PDX-v9 coming out that has the same power as the JL HD900/5 and costs the same as the old PDX-5 (100x4 + 500x1, $699.99 retail) and that would sound way better...if that's more than your looking for do the MRX-V50 which has the same power as the PDX-5 and costs almost half. 5 channels are good for conserving space and adding simplicity, but you usually get more for the same money with 2 separate amps...except that new PDX-v9 seems to be quite a good value
do you guys still recommend using the kee audio speakers, is there anything else retail that I can buy that will sound good, any of the kappa series ?