Got 2 JL w7 13.5 installed!!!
03-28-2013, 09:04 PM
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Got 2 JL w7 13.5 installed!!! okay i finally got the box built and everything but now i need to figure out a way to mount the amps and hide the wires so I'm looking for any ideas there? also i have a separate car audio battery in the back but it still kills the car at a idle should i add a second alternator or what?
03-28-2013, 09:53 PM
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Build an amp rack to mount the amps to. Run the wires behind it. Cut holes for the wire to come up into the amps. Make the amp rack go from the end of the box to the back of the seat.
03-28-2013, 10:22 PM
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If your still running the stock alt, do a search on here about alternator upgrades (it's like AD244 or some number like that) for the newer model high output truck alternator, see what it takes to do that then look into a high output version of that alternator and make sure you run 0 gauge COPPER (not the cheap aluminum wire) wire from the alt to your battery.
03-29-2013, 01:44 AM
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should be a 0 Gauge "big 3" setup (alt to battery, battery to chassis ground, battery to engine ground) and 0 gauge feeding to the second battery, then your choice of seperate 4 gauge run from rear battery to each amp or bring a 0 gauge up from the rear battery to a distribution block with a 4 gauge to each amp. The trick you have to watch out for with aftermarket HIGH OUTPUT alternators is that a lot of the cheaper ones only do half there output at idle or worse so don't by any HO unless it gives an Idle output rating.
Also something else to watch out for is the seal on the bottom of the rear window, that level of BASS could pop it then rain gets in and rots the box, happened on the box I built for a friend, the bottom half was cover in BLACK mold.
check out there KNF60, when it comes out (should be real soon) https://www.facebook.com/KnuKonceptz/photos_stream
you could use one side for the power in/out and the other for the ground in/out and really clean up that mess of wires after you build the amp rack like suggested.
also what size is that speaker wire? it looks small, like 14-16 gauge tops.
Honestly dude, after you've sunk nearly 3k (assuming you bought the amps and subs new) into your system your wiring looks like the cheapest stuff you could get your hands on, like those yellow RCA's, are they even shielded RCA's?
Upgrading your wiring should help lessen the stresses, small wire heats up when taxed like your setup will do and hot wires are a fire risk and actually increase resistance causing voltage drops, I suggest Knukonceptz for all your wiring needs, there prices are good and there quality is great, I've only seen one company beat them in terms of "true gauge" and thats monster power, cheaper brands tend to be more insulation then actual wire.
Also something else to watch out for is the seal on the bottom of the rear window, that level of BASS could pop it then rain gets in and rots the box, happened on the box I built for a friend, the bottom half was cover in BLACK mold.
check out there KNF60, when it comes out (should be real soon) https://www.facebook.com/KnuKonceptz/photos_stream
you could use one side for the power in/out and the other for the ground in/out and really clean up that mess of wires after you build the amp rack like suggested.
also what size is that speaker wire? it looks small, like 14-16 gauge tops.
Honestly dude, after you've sunk nearly 3k (assuming you bought the amps and subs new) into your system your wiring looks like the cheapest stuff you could get your hands on, like those yellow RCA's, are they even shielded RCA's?
Upgrading your wiring should help lessen the stresses, small wire heats up when taxed like your setup will do and hot wires are a fire risk and actually increase resistance causing voltage drops, I suggest Knukonceptz for all your wiring needs, there prices are good and there quality is great, I've only seen one company beat them in terms of "true gauge" and thats monster power, cheaper brands tend to be more insulation then actual wire.
Last edited by Daniel Richards; 03-29-2013 at 02:03 AM.
03-29-2013, 04:54 PM
#7
Yeah, with those JL 1000/1v2 Amps ( 1000 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm ea.) you need to run at least a 1/0 gauge power cable back there just for the sub Amps.., I'd also do the BIG 3, and run a 200 amp alternator or larger. If you car has the A4 transmission then have the idle bumped up to around 800 rpm, that will allow you factory alt. to supply a little more amperage at Idle.
I'd also recommend running theKolossus Fleks Kable, this is KnuKonceptz all copper cable, I'm also a fan of Stinger 1/0 power/grd cable.
I'd also recommend running theKolossus Fleks Kable, this is KnuKonceptz all copper cable, I'm also a fan of Stinger 1/0 power/grd cable.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 03-29-2013 at 05:04 PM.
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03-29-2013, 04:57 PM
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Yeah, with those JL 1000/1v2 Amps ( 1000 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm ea.) you need to run at least a 1/0 gauge power cable back there just for the sub Amps.., I'd also do the BIG 3, and run a 200 amp alternator or larger. If you car has the A4 transmission then have the idle bumped up to around 800 rpm, that will allow you factory alt. to supply a little more amperage at Idle.
03-29-2013, 06:36 PM
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should be a 0 Gauge "big 3" setup (alt to battery, battery to chassis ground, battery to engine ground) and 0 gauge feeding to the second battery, then your choice of seperate 4 gauge run from rear battery to each amp or bring a 0 gauge up from the rear battery to a distribution block with a 4 gauge to each amp. The trick you have to watch out for with aftermarket HIGH OUTPUT alternators is that a lot of the cheaper ones only do half there output at idle or worse so don't by any HO unless it gives an Idle output rating.
Also something else to watch out for is the seal on the bottom of the rear window, that level of BASS could pop it then rain gets in and rots the box, happened on the box I built for a friend, the bottom half was cover in BLACK mold.
check out there KNF60, when it comes out (should be real soon) https://www.facebook.com/KnuKonceptz/photos_stream
you could use one side for the power in/out and the other for the ground in/out and really clean up that mess of wires after you build the amp rack like suggested.
also what size is that speaker wire? it looks small, like 14-16 gauge tops.
Honestly dude, after you've sunk nearly 3k (assuming you bought the amps and subs new) into your system your wiring looks like the cheapest stuff you could get your hands on, like those yellow RCA's, are they even shielded RCA's?
Upgrading your wiring should help lessen the stresses, small wire heats up when taxed like your setup will do and hot wires are a fire risk and actually increase resistance causing voltage drops, I suggest Knukonceptz for all your wiring needs, there prices are good and there quality is great, I've only seen one company beat them in terms of "true gauge" and thats monster power, cheaper brands tend to be more insulation then actual wire.
Also something else to watch out for is the seal on the bottom of the rear window, that level of BASS could pop it then rain gets in and rots the box, happened on the box I built for a friend, the bottom half was cover in BLACK mold.
check out there KNF60, when it comes out (should be real soon) https://www.facebook.com/KnuKonceptz/photos_stream
you could use one side for the power in/out and the other for the ground in/out and really clean up that mess of wires after you build the amp rack like suggested.
also what size is that speaker wire? it looks small, like 14-16 gauge tops.
Honestly dude, after you've sunk nearly 3k (assuming you bought the amps and subs new) into your system your wiring looks like the cheapest stuff you could get your hands on, like those yellow RCA's, are they even shielded RCA's?
Upgrading your wiring should help lessen the stresses, small wire heats up when taxed like your setup will do and hot wires are a fire risk and actually increase resistance causing voltage drops, I suggest Knukonceptz for all your wiring needs, there prices are good and there quality is great, I've only seen one company beat them in terms of "true gauge" and thats monster power, cheaper brands tend to be more insulation then actual wire.
03-29-2013, 08:01 PM
#11
Yes, I believe you're correct the JL logo on the top of the V2 is different. As far as running the cable I had to do the same thing with my MMATS sub amp, 1/0 gauge to the back then split into dual 4 gauge power inputs. I also have a separate 4 gauge power cable running to the back for my 2 Zapco amps for my main speakers.
