Another turn signal issue...
Another turn signal issue... Like most people, I've been having issues with my front turn signals in my 99 TA. I noticed there are two filaments in each bulb. With the headlights off, both turn signals work however on the passenger side the "headlight on" filament is being used.... With the headlights on, the passenger side does not blink and the "headlights off" filament is lite up. The rear turn signals light up as they should. I'm not very good with electronics so I haven't been successful in diagnosing the issue, just noticing trends....
yes I rewired it just before this issue happened....... I was thinking the same thing but I wired it exactly the same way as the old one. Not sure how to fix it, I don't really want to randomly hook stuff up either.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The symptoms sound like you have the two power wires reversed. Try switching the wires connected to the dark blue (bright filament for turn signal and DRL) and the brown wires (dim filament for parking lights). It is also possible you have a bad ground causing the two filaments to try to ground through each other.
If you have wire nuts, they are a convenient way to make connections for testing purposes that can be easily undone so that you don't end up crimping or soldering and then cutting. If you don't have wire nuts, just use the old twist and tape method until you're sure that everything works and then make a more permanent connection.
If you have wire nuts, they are a convenient way to make connections for testing purposes that can be easily undone so that you don't end up crimping or soldering and then cutting. If you don't have wire nuts, just use the old twist and tape method until you're sure that everything works and then make a more permanent connection.
thats the first thing I thought of but then why doesn't it blink? I'll try it out and see what happens but my gut is telling me if it was something simple like crossed wires then it would blink...
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The turn signals will stay on without blinking if there is not enough current flow to cause the flasher to cycle. This is normally used as a "bulb out" indicator. It is possible that if the connections are reversed, the dim filament is not drawing enough current to make the flasher flash (the dim filament uses less than 1/10 the power of the bright filament).
Would it change anything if I told you I changed the flasher out to the EL12 (I think thats the part number) I changed it for LED's, but switched back to the incandescent.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Yes, that does make a difference because the EL12 flasher doesn't have the same "stop flashing on low current" response that the OEM thermal flasher does. Still, the possibility of cross-wiring is the thing that is suggested by the fact it was recently changed and it is an easy thing to check so I would start there first.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Well, unless you can get through the insulation, it might be difficult. A test light with a sharp probe would work but a multimeter usually has blunt probes so you would have to check from the socket (difficult with a 3157 style socket) or cut back the wire insulation.
If you do have a test light with a sharp probe that can penetrate the wire insulation, remove the bulb from the socket, connect the test light ground clip to a good ground such as the radiator support, and then test for power as follows:
- Headlights on: steady power on the brown wire.
- Ignition and turn signal on: flashing power on the dark blue wire.
If that checks out, connect the ground clip to power (you may need to run a piece of wire from the test light alligator clip to reach the battery positive terminal) and check that the test light goes on when probing the black ground wire.
If you do have a test light with a sharp probe that can penetrate the wire insulation, remove the bulb from the socket, connect the test light ground clip to a good ground such as the radiator support, and then test for power as follows:
- Headlights on: steady power on the brown wire.
- Ignition and turn signal on: flashing power on the dark blue wire.
If that checks out, connect the ground clip to power (you may need to run a piece of wire from the test light alligator clip to reach the battery positive terminal) and check that the test light goes on when probing the black ground wire.
I appreciate your help with my previous issue however a new problem has surfaced. With the key on/ running my passenger side signal is not illuminated. It blinks when I turn the signal on and with the headlights on, everything works as it should. It just seems whatever sends power to the signal when the key is on/ lights off just isn't sending the signal. Any ideas? It's also intermittent..... The only anomaly is when I flip the lights up but turn the **** back, (you know when the lids are up but lights are off) the outer filament is lite instead of the inner like its suppose to. I'm kinda stumped.
It seems like it would be the DRL or that box behind the radio but my knowledge is limited in this department. I do know (after checking with a test light) that constant power is not being sent to the passenger side during DRL mode, I also tested the ground and its fine. Is there a wire I should test on the DRL module? If I can find the source of the signal I can see if the signal is being sent, if it is it's probably a wire? If not, the module itself??
Last edited by JDMC5; Aug 4, 2013 at 11:07 AM.
ok I found this from whitebird00:
The DRL module uses a number of different inputs to determine whether to turn on the DRL lamp on each side - ignition on, headlights off, turn signal off and parking brake released. It is powered by the GAUGES fuse so check that first.
Then you need to test to see if the DRL module is causing the problem. You will find two connectors plugged into the module. On one connector you will find four blue wires - dark blue, dark blue with white, light blue, and light blue with white. The two dark blue wires are for the right side and the two light blue wires are for the left side. In both cases, the solid color wire is the output from the module to the front lamps and the white striped wire is the input from the turn signal switch.
Use your test light to see if you have power in both solid color wires when the ignition is on, the headlights are off and the parking brake is released. If so, the module is good and your problem is between the module and the lights (broken wires or bad sockets). If there isn't power then test the two white striped wires with the turn signals on - you should get flashing power on the wire for the appropriate signal (dark blue = right, light blue = left). If so then the DRL module is the problem. If not, there is a problem with the turn signal switch or wiring.
Also, I apologize for sending you PM's.....
The DRL module uses a number of different inputs to determine whether to turn on the DRL lamp on each side - ignition on, headlights off, turn signal off and parking brake released. It is powered by the GAUGES fuse so check that first.
Then you need to test to see if the DRL module is causing the problem. You will find two connectors plugged into the module. On one connector you will find four blue wires - dark blue, dark blue with white, light blue, and light blue with white. The two dark blue wires are for the right side and the two light blue wires are for the left side. In both cases, the solid color wire is the output from the module to the front lamps and the white striped wire is the input from the turn signal switch.
Use your test light to see if you have power in both solid color wires when the ignition is on, the headlights are off and the parking brake is released. If so, the module is good and your problem is between the module and the lights (broken wires or bad sockets). If there isn't power then test the two white striped wires with the turn signals on - you should get flashing power on the wire for the appropriate signal (dark blue = right, light blue = left). If so then the DRL module is the problem. If not, there is a problem with the turn signal switch or wiring.
Also, I apologize for sending you PM's.....
