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Old 05-23-2004, 12:18 PM
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OK so here is how dumb one person can be at any given moment. Last night while drinking (suprise, dumb things happen while drinking ) I was playing my stereo in access mode. I drained my battery and became impatient when trying to jump the proper way, so I hooked up directly to my cables. Boy was there a smoke show there, cables got real warm real fast and it looked like David Copperfield was about to take the stage. I have since today checked my battery which is showing a charge of about 12. however when i hook the negative into it my volts drop down to 1.7, I'm thinking three things 1. stop drinking and making rash decisions, 2. my wife is going to kill me if it is the whole wiring harness ($1K +) and 3. I melted my ground down to the starter and that's what's screwing the whole thing up. Power to the ECM is also at 1.7 so I know at least that's not the problem too. I also replaced the 2 blown fuses a 15 and 10...HELP!!!!!
Old 05-23-2004, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
Last night while drinking (suprise, dumb things happen while drinking )
Hopefully you weren't driving.

Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
I was playing my stereo in access mode. I drained my battery
Our cars have battery run-down protection. With that said, that shouldn't have happened.


Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
became impatient when trying to jump the proper way, so I hooked up directly to my cables. Boy was there a smoke show there, cables got real warm real fast and it looked like David Copperfield was about to take the stage.
What do you mean? Did you connect directly to the battery or did you connect to some other connection that couldnt handle the load? You might want to get yourself a jumpstart battery pack like tow truck drivers have (kinda like this: http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...ESCM%7C%7Etrue although I bought a better one at BJ's). I have one in my trunk. It costs $40-$50.

Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
I have since today checked my battery which is showing a charge of about 12. however when i hook the negative into it my volts drop down to 1.7, I'm thinking three things 1. stop drinking and making rash decisions, 2. my wife is going to kill me if it is the whole wiring harness ($1K +) and 3. I melted my ground down to the starter and that's what's screwing the whole thing up. Power to the ECM is also at 1.7 so I know at least that's not the problem too. I also replaced the 2 blown fuses a 15 and 10...HELP!!!!!
That is a lot of resistance. Check the gounds to the block/starter/PCM. There could be problems there. Trace the wires that you tested. Something may be melted.

Last edited by VIP1; 05-23-2004 at 02:24 PM.
Old 05-23-2004, 02:24 PM
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Nope I wasn't driving, and the reason the battery was allowed to drain was the key was turned to the rear making the DRLs stay on as well and therefore foregoing the run-down protect. I used a top post battery and held the cables directly to it by hand. I am really thinking the wire to the starter IS the prob, but would that change the voltage so drastically once connected to the neg terminal?
Old 05-23-2004, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
Nope I wasn't driving
Thank God.

Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
the reason the battery was allowed to drain was the key was turned to the rear making the DRLs stay on as well and therefore foregoing the run-down protect.
The key was turned in the the ACC (backwards turn) position right? If so, then to my knowledge, the battery run-down protection should have worked.

Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
I used a top post battery and held the cables directly to it by hand.
I have connected to the battery directly before without issue. Did you do it backwards by mistake. That would definately cause problems.

Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
I am really thinking the wire to the starter IS the prob, but would that change the voltage so drastically once connected to the neg terminal?

Its possible, but that may not be the only issue. ITs a good place to start.
Old 05-23-2004, 02:31 PM
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I will start there and thanks for the help, anyone else know something more? All help is welcome.
Old 05-23-2004, 11:55 PM
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run down protection? never heard of this one........how does it supposedly do this?
Old 05-24-2004, 09:26 AM
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The BCM shuts down most accessory circuits after a period of time (I think 10-15 minutes) without the engine running. This prevents such things as the interior lights running down the battery if a door is left open.
Old 05-24-2004, 09:53 AM
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I think that the run-down protection only works when the key is in the off position(example you shut off your car and don't open the doors, your radio and windows will work for a few minutes then stop) when the key is in the back position then you accessories will work till the battery dies.
Old 05-24-2004, 11:05 AM
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I understand all of that with the run-down protection, I lived through it one evening when my EX-wife decided that she didn't want to close the doors and instead just went to bed. But in the meantime, my main concern is the fact that everything smoked out and now I get no power. How does a fried out starter that is creating an open circuit sound? I have a feeling that this may be it, anyone else?
Old 05-24-2004, 02:06 PM
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This isnt my area of expertise, but I dont think a burnt starter would cause the electrical problems unless the wires going to it are burnt/shorted (the engine just wouldnt start). I could be wrong though.
Old 05-24-2004, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
OK so here is how dumb one person can be at any given moment. Last night while drinking (suprise, dumb things happen while drinking ) I was playing my stereo in access mode. I drained my battery and became impatient when trying to jump the proper way, so I hooked up directly to my cables. Boy was there a smoke show there, cables got real warm real fast and it looked like David Copperfield was about to take the stage. I have since today checked my battery which is showing a charge of about 12. however when i hook the negative into it my volts drop down to 1.7, I'm thinking three things 1. stop drinking and making rash decisions, 2. my wife is going to kill me if it is the whole wiring harness ($1K +) and 3. I melted my ground down to the starter and that's what's screwing the whole thing up. Power to the ECM is also at 1.7 so I know at least that's not the problem too. I also replaced the 2 blown fuses a 15 and 10...HELP!!!!!
If you blew the 2 main fuses there is a good chanch that you hooked the jumper cables up backwards on the battery and thats why the fuses blew. Take the battery down to your local parts store and have them check it. If is is internanly shorted or won't hold a charge any load on it will cause your voltage to drop. lol
Alan
Old 05-24-2004, 02:55 PM
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But the weird part of it is, why can it show that it has 12V without the negative screwed down but as soon as it is hooked up it drops so drastically?
Old 05-24-2004, 03:03 PM
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Because its shot. they usally show a surface charge but when put under any load whats so ever just fall flat on there face when they are toast like that.(which is why the only way u can test a battery is with a load test....VAT-40 anybody )

Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
But the weird part of it is, why can it show that it has 12V without the negative screwed down but as soon as it is hooked up it drops so drastically?
Old 05-24-2004, 03:12 PM
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OK that was pretty much what I came up with as an answer, figuring that the load of actually doing any work ie. powering a starter was just too much to bear. However I will not rule out the fact that I may have smoked a few ground cables underside which I can't really get a good view of until I get it on a rack. This all sounds better since my original thought was to find another in my work section that might have a Camaro willing to loan me the battery for a test run and then go buy an Optima if indeed it is the problem. For the life of me I want to say that even drunk I would know red from black, but then again I'm also on my second marriage...
Old 05-25-2004, 08:56 AM
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OK battery was the right answer, after starting it the smell of electrical burn was wafting through the car, idle was real rough and all internals stayed on for a bit but then soon blinked out. Alternator is the next on my list I believe, no fuses blew this time around. Only check gauges was on and it was showing about 8 amps on the dash. What do you all think now?
Old 05-25-2004, 01:32 PM
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Its sounds like you did try to charge it backwards. The alternator is a good next step. You might want to get it tested before ordering a new one.
Old 05-25-2004, 10:44 PM
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I went ahead and bought the alternator for all of 50 bucks already. It will be in tomorrow, I can't really feel that bad if it isn't the full problem since the investment is low. However the cross action may have happened when I was using a spare battery someone had. I dropped it in and now that I think about it maybe I wasn't paying much attn while holding the cables directly to the terminals by HAND.
Old 05-26-2004, 12:14 PM
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Anyone else have any great ideas about this stuff?
Old 05-26-2004, 01:42 PM
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well if you did hook the battery up backwads before it would have a good chance off smoking the diodes in the alt. so u probably will have to change that. also check ur alt harness for power, could of blown an inline fuse to that causeing it not to want to charge when ur car is running.

Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
Anyone else have any great ideas about this stuff?




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