clear front lights LED
09-07-2021, 07:53 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
clear front lights LED So this is a two part question, I am looking to perches clear front turn signals and LED switchbacks, Here is my question what are good clear front turn signals for a 2002 Camaro SS SLP and do I need to do anything to make the LED switchback work?
Thanks
Thanks
09-08-2021, 08:56 AM
#2
Switchbacks will not work without either rewiring the DRL module and the front signal sockets or else buying an expensive combination of special bulbs and a custom switchback control module from V-LEDs (total of about $160 for bulbs and module). That's because the factory wiring implements DRL function by just running the turn signal circuit all the time. Switchback bulbs are designed with a white parking light circuit and amber turn signal circuit but the f-body design would simply run the amber side all the time except when you turn on the headlights (the only time the parking lights are active).
09-08-2021, 09:34 AM
#3
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Switchbacks will not work without either rewiring the DRL module and the front signal sockets or else buying an expensive combination of special bulbs and a custom switchback control module from V-LEDs (total of about $160 for bulbs and module). That's because the factory wiring implements DRL function by just running the turn signal circuit all the time. Switchback bulbs are designed with a white parking light circuit and amber turn signal circuit but the f-body design would simply run the amber side all the time except when you turn on the headlights (the only time the parking lights are active).
Thanks
09-08-2021, 11:33 AM
#5
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Thanks
09-09-2021, 08:33 AM
#6
Unfortunately, cutting wires would be required. Here is the procedure that I wrote about five years ago... https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-st...l#post19213348.
Now, I suppose you could remove the four blue wires from the DRL module plug and connect them together without cutting off the ends but it wouldn't be a secure and trustworthy connection. Similarly, you could remove the brown wire from each front socket and replace it with your new ignition controlled power wire so that the original brown wire wouldn't be cut. Personally, I would just go ahead and cut the wires but leave enough loose wire on either side of the cut to make it easy to splice them back together if you want to return to stock. Don't forget to insulate the unused cut ends to prevent the possibility of shorts (those wires are powered under various circumstances).
Now, I suppose you could remove the four blue wires from the DRL module plug and connect them together without cutting off the ends but it wouldn't be a secure and trustworthy connection. Similarly, you could remove the brown wire from each front socket and replace it with your new ignition controlled power wire so that the original brown wire wouldn't be cut. Personally, I would just go ahead and cut the wires but leave enough loose wire on either side of the cut to make it easy to splice them back together if you want to return to stock. Don't forget to insulate the unused cut ends to prevent the possibility of shorts (those wires are powered under various circumstances).
09-09-2021, 05:26 PM
#7
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Unfortunately, cutting wires would be required. Here is the procedure that I wrote about five years ago... https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-st...l#post19213348.
Now, I suppose you could remove the four blue wires from the DRL module plug and connect them together without cutting off the ends but it wouldn't be a secure and trustworthy connection. Similarly, you could remove the brown wire from each front socket and replace it with your new ignition controlled power wire so that the original brown wire wouldn't be cut. Personally, I would just go ahead and cut the wires but leave enough loose wire on either side of the cut to make it easy to splice them back together if you want to return to stock. Don't forget to insulate the unused cut ends to prevent the possibility of shorts (those wires are powered under various circumstances).
Now, I suppose you could remove the four blue wires from the DRL module plug and connect them together without cutting off the ends but it wouldn't be a secure and trustworthy connection. Similarly, you could remove the brown wire from each front socket and replace it with your new ignition controlled power wire so that the original brown wire wouldn't be cut. Personally, I would just go ahead and cut the wires but leave enough loose wire on either side of the cut to make it easy to splice them back together if you want to return to stock. Don't forget to insulate the unused cut ends to prevent the possibility of shorts (those wires are powered under various circumstances).
Thanks
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09-10-2021, 10:00 AM
#8
There would be no need to get a DRL module... the changes are made in the wiring harness external to the module. What you're doing is bypassing the DRL module to eliminate the factory DRLs. In each pair of blue wires, the white stripe one is the flashing power from the turn signal switch when the signal is in use, and the solid one is the output to the front lamps. Disconnecting them from the DRL module prevents the module from passing steady current to the front lamps for DRLs, while connecting the pairs together allows the flashing turn signal power to still go to those lamps.
I have used V-LEDs many times over the years. In fact, my current headlights are their Micro Extreme LED bulbs and I could not be more pleased with them. Their products are well designed and engineered and their customer service is a good as any I've seen. I once had one of their older version of headlight bulbs burn out - when I called them, they asked me to send a photo of the dead bulb with the connecting lead cut off to ensure it was unusable and and they sent me a replacement immediately via priority mail. However, I have never used their Triton bulbs mainly because they are just too expensive for my taste. I know people who have used them and been very happy with the results but I can replace my turn signal bulbs with cheaper alternatives many times before I come close to the cost of the Tritons. The LED amber 3157 bulbs currently in my front signals (which also double as DRL and strobe lights) have lasted three years so far and cost me less than $20 for the pair. I bought a spare pair just in case I couldn't find them again when I needed replacements but that hasn't happened (and they're still available on Amazon).
Now, if their switchback module would work with any standard LED switchback bulbs (rather than only with the Tritons) then I would certainly have bought them when they were $30 and would probably still consider them at their current price. But the requirement of only working with those expensive Triton bulbs makes the whole deal unattractive to me. On the other hand, having worked with car electrical and electronics for so many years, the modification for switchbacks is no big deal for me. YMMV.
I have used V-LEDs many times over the years. In fact, my current headlights are their Micro Extreme LED bulbs and I could not be more pleased with them. Their products are well designed and engineered and their customer service is a good as any I've seen. I once had one of their older version of headlight bulbs burn out - when I called them, they asked me to send a photo of the dead bulb with the connecting lead cut off to ensure it was unusable and and they sent me a replacement immediately via priority mail. However, I have never used their Triton bulbs mainly because they are just too expensive for my taste. I know people who have used them and been very happy with the results but I can replace my turn signal bulbs with cheaper alternatives many times before I come close to the cost of the Tritons. The LED amber 3157 bulbs currently in my front signals (which also double as DRL and strobe lights) have lasted three years so far and cost me less than $20 for the pair. I bought a spare pair just in case I couldn't find them again when I needed replacements but that hasn't happened (and they're still available on Amazon).
Now, if their switchback module would work with any standard LED switchback bulbs (rather than only with the Tritons) then I would certainly have bought them when they were $30 and would probably still consider them at their current price. But the requirement of only working with those expensive Triton bulbs makes the whole deal unattractive to me. On the other hand, having worked with car electrical and electronics for so many years, the modification for switchbacks is no big deal for me. YMMV.