Stand alone cooling for AC
PCM has 1 positive and negative wire for cooling fan and 1 speed set to on at 205. I have 1 puller fan.
Im wanting the fan to come on automatically when the AC is turned on. I have a separate relay wired from the binary switch as a trigger, power from the battery, grounded of course and the power wire to fan split into the power wire from the computer. Any issues I’m not thinking about?
I think the wires involved are on RED connector #33, and BLUE 42, are the two "trigger" wires used to control both the high, and low speed fan. BOTH of those wires to my knowledge are NEGATIVE wires designed to energize the coil in the relay. Am I wrong about that?
Anyways, how I have my system wired up is like this.... I am running the Ford Thunderchicken fan from a 1997 4.6L. It is a TWO speed fan that uses a single motor. That motor has 3 wires coming out of it. 1 for ground, another for low speed power operation (12V+), and the last for HIGH speed operation. My PCM is set to control ONLY the low speed (as it moves enough air that the vehicle will never over-heat just utilizing the low speed). Then, I have the HIGH speed side set to trigger when the A/C is on. I used the A/C compressor control wire coming from the PCM to trigger TWO relays.. 1 relay for the a/c compressor clutch, and the 2nd relay for the HIGH speed fan control. I have this system wired up with a 3rd relay so that when the HIGH speed fan is triggered by the A/C request, the low speed fan cannot be energized. This prevents BOTH the high and low wire from getting power at the same time. I understand that GM electric fans use 2 fan motors, with 3 relays. If you are running the GM set up, I'm sure you can figure out how to do this the same way. OR... plumb in a trinary switch into the A/C lines like GM did on the F-bodys and then the HIGH speed fans will be triggered off of PRESSURE in the A/C lines. If you would like a diagram for how I have mine set up, I can provide it. I draw them up and keep them in the car in case I ever need to trouble shoot the system, or if/when I sell the vehicle the new owner can easily figure out what is happening with the system.
When I wire up my fans I use 8 gauge wiring on ALL wires including the ground, and ALWAYS use a 12V 50A circuit break that automatically resets if/when tripped, and I use a 12V 75A relay on BOTH the high and low speed sides such as this;
This might seem like over-kill but I have learned the hard way that the cheapie 12V 30A relays like this; tend to melt the wires, and or the contacts, or the plastic housing that the wires clip in to. Don't waste your time with the 12V 30A relays is my point. Spend a little more and you will be saving yourself some major headaches. I also solder all connections, heat style shrink wrap, and then the plastic conduit over ALL power providing wiring with zip ties holding the conduit on the wiring in multiple places along the wire.
And if the pcm triggers the fan to come on while the ac is on it can’t get to the pcm trigger correct?
Its just a hot circuit???
Seems like this is logical but I’m no expert.
Thanks for the reply.
When you say "it's just a hot circuit"... Well.. That depends.. It's a "hot circuit" when the GROUND signal is provided by the PCM, which then closes the circuit in the relay coil, which then allows current to pass through the relay.
If you are worried about the signal from one fan acting on, or interfering with, the signal for the other fan... When wired up correctly using 2 separate relays-there is no possibility of the two fan signal wires interfering with each other.... I hope that answers your questions. I will admit I'm not 100% clear on your post.

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If so, then you can add a relay in the line from the ECU to the fan relay
Terminal 30 to the relay
Terminal 87a (normally closed) to the ECU
Terminal 87 to ground
So, if this relay is off, the ECU is controlling the fan relay
if this relay is energized, it grounds the line, turning on the fan relay.
This is all just grounds getting switched, so no chance to backfeed anything.







