Basic System Upgrade
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Basic System Upgrade I'm looking to replace my factory Monsoon setup with a simple aftermarket system. I'm not an audiophile, but do like my music loud and clear. Would running a set of front 6.5" speakers powered by an aftermarket HU be a good enough option? My dad has a similar setup in his truck, and I like the way it sounds, but I know it's filling a smaller area.
What recommendations would you guys make along these lines?
Thanks,
Josh
What recommendations would you guys make along these lines?
Thanks,
Josh
Originally Posted by Josh
I'm looking to replace my factory Monsoon setup with a simple aftermarket system. I'm not an audiophile, but do like my music loud and clear. Would running a set of front 6.5" speakers powered by an aftermarket HU be a good enough option? My dad has a similar setup in his truck, and I like the way it sounds, but I know it's filling a smaller area.
What recommendations would you guys make along these lines?
Thanks,
Josh
What recommendations would you guys make along these lines?
Thanks,
Josh
Well, for almost anyone, a simple high-powered HU will do from Alpine, Kenwood, etc. Try to look for one with at least 25Wx4 RMS. I like Alpine because they have the **** volume control... just feels better to me.
You'll need a set of speakers for your front panels... you could go components (matched speaker and tweeter w/crossovers) or standard single speakers (buy 6.5s and tweeters seperately). With components, you'll get better sound since they are matched with tweeters and crossovers, but you'll have to mount the crossovers somewhere. Infinity, Kenwood Excelon, Pioneer, Polk... those are all good brands. I would choose Inifinity over the rest. You said you're not an audiophile so you don't need CDT, Focals, etc.
Stay away from Sony, I don't care how cool they look. You could also upgrade the rear speakers, but I'd just do the fronts first, since that's your soundstage and where most of your music should be coming from. Later on down the road you could add an amp, but I'd try the HU and components first, as that might be enough for you.
Some basics:
-Get a high Signal-to-Noise ratio (at least above 90). The higher the number, the better the sound.
-Find a HU with a low FM sensitivity - the lower the number (14 is average, 9 or so is excellent) the better the ability to pick up stations.
Here are a few HU's to get you started:
Alpine CDA-9833 - has the V-Drive Mosfet internal amp - 26Wx4 RMS, 60Wx4 peak, 105dB Signal-to-Noise ratio, and 9.3 dBf sensitivity. It's not cheap, but if you want just a HU and don't plan on putting in an amp to drive the speakers later on, than this would be a excellent choice.
If you are planning on going with an amp for the speakers later on down the road, then the Apline CDA-9847 would be a better choice than the 9833. Same great features as the 9833, but it's rated lower @ 18Wx4 RMS, 50Wx4 peak. You'd be using preamp outs to go to the amps, so the RMS doesn't matter.
Both play MP3/WMA files, both have front/rear/sub preamps, etc. It's just that one is more made for driving speakers without an amp and still being a good HU with the options for sending signal to aux amps, while the other (9847) is made more for sending signal to the amps, since it only has 18W RMS per channel.
Component set:
If you have 6.5s in the doors, then I would go with the Infinity 6000cs.
Another note on speakers: for every 3db increase in sensitivity, you get twice the sound from the same amount of power. Take these speakers for example... 92db sensitivity. Let's say we're sending them 75W. If you have a speaker that's 89db, then it would take 150W to get the same amount of sound out of the 89db sensitivity speaker. So speaker sensitivity is what you're looking for too. I like to stay above 90db if possible.
So, for under $500, you can have the start of a great system. Or get the 9847 HU for even cheaper and you'll still have a good system. Music is one thing I like in my car, and I don't like to buy junk. I say that if you are going to spend the money, you might as well do it right and do it once.
A good place to buy gear from is thezeb.com and onlinecarstereo.com. I've ordered from both before and they have great prices and service.
Good luck.
You'll need a set of speakers for your front panels... you could go components (matched speaker and tweeter w/crossovers) or standard single speakers (buy 6.5s and tweeters seperately). With components, you'll get better sound since they are matched with tweeters and crossovers, but you'll have to mount the crossovers somewhere. Infinity, Kenwood Excelon, Pioneer, Polk... those are all good brands. I would choose Inifinity over the rest. You said you're not an audiophile so you don't need CDT, Focals, etc.
Stay away from Sony, I don't care how cool they look. You could also upgrade the rear speakers, but I'd just do the fronts first, since that's your soundstage and where most of your music should be coming from. Later on down the road you could add an amp, but I'd try the HU and components first, as that might be enough for you.Some basics:
-Get a high Signal-to-Noise ratio (at least above 90). The higher the number, the better the sound.
-Find a HU with a low FM sensitivity - the lower the number (14 is average, 9 or so is excellent) the better the ability to pick up stations.
Here are a few HU's to get you started:
Alpine CDA-9833 - has the V-Drive Mosfet internal amp - 26Wx4 RMS, 60Wx4 peak, 105dB Signal-to-Noise ratio, and 9.3 dBf sensitivity. It's not cheap, but if you want just a HU and don't plan on putting in an amp to drive the speakers later on, than this would be a excellent choice.
If you are planning on going with an amp for the speakers later on down the road, then the Apline CDA-9847 would be a better choice than the 9833. Same great features as the 9833, but it's rated lower @ 18Wx4 RMS, 50Wx4 peak. You'd be using preamp outs to go to the amps, so the RMS doesn't matter.
Both play MP3/WMA files, both have front/rear/sub preamps, etc. It's just that one is more made for driving speakers without an amp and still being a good HU with the options for sending signal to aux amps, while the other (9847) is made more for sending signal to the amps, since it only has 18W RMS per channel.
Component set:
If you have 6.5s in the doors, then I would go with the Infinity 6000cs.
Another note on speakers: for every 3db increase in sensitivity, you get twice the sound from the same amount of power. Take these speakers for example... 92db sensitivity. Let's say we're sending them 75W. If you have a speaker that's 89db, then it would take 150W to get the same amount of sound out of the 89db sensitivity speaker. So speaker sensitivity is what you're looking for too. I like to stay above 90db if possible.
So, for under $500, you can have the start of a great system. Or get the 9847 HU for even cheaper and you'll still have a good system. Music is one thing I like in my car, and I don't like to buy junk. I say that if you are going to spend the money, you might as well do it right and do it once.
A good place to buy gear from is thezeb.com and onlinecarstereo.com. I've ordered from both before and they have great prices and service.
Good luck.
Last edited by super_kev; Mar 17, 2005 at 09:26 PM.
Originally Posted by super_kev
Well, for almost anyone, a simple high-powered HU will do from Alpine, Kenwood, etc. Try to look for one with at least 25Wx4 RMS. I like Alpine because they have the **** volume control... just feels better to me.
You'll need a set of speakers for your front panels... you could go components (matched speaker and tweeter w/crossovers) or standard single speakers (buy 6.5s and tweeters seperately). With components, you'll get better sound since they are matched with tweeters and crossovers, but you'll have to mount the crossovers somewhere. Infinity, Kenwood Excelon, Pioneer, Polk... those are all good brands. I would choose Inifinity over the rest. You said you're not an audiophile so you don't need CDT, Focals, etc. Stay away from Sony, I don't care how cool they look. You could also upgrade the rear speakers, but I'd just do the fronts first, since that's your soundstage and where most of your music should be coming from. Later on down the road you could add an amp, but I'd try the HU and components first, as that might be enough for you.
Some basics:
-Get a high Signal-to-Noise ratio (at least above 90). The higher the number, the better the sound.
-Find a HU with a low FM sensitivity - the lower the number (14 is average, 9 or so is excellent) the better the ability to pick up stations.
Here are a few HU's to get you started:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...D=13857]Alpine CDA-9833[/URL] - has the V-Drive Mosfet internal amp - 26Wx4 RMS, 60Wx4 peak, 105dB Signal-to-Noise ratio, and 9.3 dBf sensitivity. It's not cheap, but if you want just a HU and don't plan on putting in an amp to drive the speakers later on, than this would be a excellent choice.
If you are planning on going with an amp for the speakers later on down the road, then the Apline CDA-9847 would be a better choice than the 9833. Same great features as the 9833, but it's rated lower @ 18Wx4 RMS, 50Wx4 peak. You'd be using preamp outs to go to the amps, so the RMS doesn't matter.
Both play MP3/WMA files, both have front/rear/sub preamps, etc. It's just that one is more made for driving speakers without an amp and still being a good HU with the options for sending signal to aux amps, while the other (9847) is made more for sending signal to the amps, since it only has 18W RMS per channel.
Component set:
If you have 6.5s in the doors, then I would go with the Infinity 6000cs.
Another note on speakers: for every 3db increase in sensitivity, you get twice the sound from the same amount of power. Take these speakers for example... 92db sensitivity. Let's say we're sending them 75W. If you have a speaker that's 89db, then it would take 150W to get the same amount of sound out of the 89db sensitivity speaker. So speaker sensitivity is what you're looking for too. I like to stay above 90db if possible.
So, for under $500, you can have the start of a great system. Or get the 9847 HU for even cheaper and you'll still have a good system. Music is one thing I like in my car, and I don't like to buy junk. I say that iff you are going to spend the money, you might as well do it right and do it once.
A good place to buy gear from is thezeb.com and onlinecarstereo.com. I've ordered from both before and they have great prices and service.
Good luck.
You'll need a set of speakers for your front panels... you could go components (matched speaker and tweeter w/crossovers) or standard single speakers (buy 6.5s and tweeters seperately). With components, you'll get better sound since they are matched with tweeters and crossovers, but you'll have to mount the crossovers somewhere. Infinity, Kenwood Excelon, Pioneer, Polk... those are all good brands. I would choose Inifinity over the rest. You said you're not an audiophile so you don't need CDT, Focals, etc.
Stay away from Sony, I don't care how cool they look. You could also upgrade the rear speakers, but I'd just do the fronts first, since that's your soundstage and where most of your music should be coming from. Later on down the road you could add an amp, but I'd try the HU and components first, as that might be enough for you.Some basics:
-Get a high Signal-to-Noise ratio (at least above 90). The higher the number, the better the sound.
-Find a HU with a low FM sensitivity - the lower the number (14 is average, 9 or so is excellent) the better the ability to pick up stations.
Here are a few HU's to get you started:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...D=13857]Alpine CDA-9833[/URL] - has the V-Drive Mosfet internal amp - 26Wx4 RMS, 60Wx4 peak, 105dB Signal-to-Noise ratio, and 9.3 dBf sensitivity. It's not cheap, but if you want just a HU and don't plan on putting in an amp to drive the speakers later on, than this would be a excellent choice.
If you are planning on going with an amp for the speakers later on down the road, then the Apline CDA-9847 would be a better choice than the 9833. Same great features as the 9833, but it's rated lower @ 18Wx4 RMS, 50Wx4 peak. You'd be using preamp outs to go to the amps, so the RMS doesn't matter.
Both play MP3/WMA files, both have front/rear/sub preamps, etc. It's just that one is more made for driving speakers without an amp and still being a good HU with the options for sending signal to aux amps, while the other (9847) is made more for sending signal to the amps, since it only has 18W RMS per channel.
Component set:
If you have 6.5s in the doors, then I would go with the Infinity 6000cs.
Another note on speakers: for every 3db increase in sensitivity, you get twice the sound from the same amount of power. Take these speakers for example... 92db sensitivity. Let's say we're sending them 75W. If you have a speaker that's 89db, then it would take 150W to get the same amount of sound out of the 89db sensitivity speaker. So speaker sensitivity is what you're looking for too. I like to stay above 90db if possible.
So, for under $500, you can have the start of a great system. Or get the 9847 HU for even cheaper and you'll still have a good system. Music is one thing I like in my car, and I don't like to buy junk. I say that iff you are going to spend the money, you might as well do it right and do it once.
A good place to buy gear from is thezeb.com and onlinecarstereo.com. I've ordered from both before and they have great prices and service.
Good luck.
YOU. IN HERE PLEASE. That's a great way to sum it up. You can copy and past also to put it in both places.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/288715-attn-experts-lets-put-together-thread-common-advice-beginners.html
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Originally Posted by super_kev
Well, for almost anyone, a simple high-powered HU will do from Alpine, Kenwood, etc. Try to look for one with at least 25Wx4 RMS. I like Alpine because they have the **** volume control... just feels better to me.
You'll need a set of speakers for your front panels... you could go components (matched speaker and tweeter w/crossovers) or standard single speakers (buy 6.5s and tweeters seperately). With components, you'll get better sound since they are matched with tweeters and crossovers, but you'll have to mount the crossovers somewhere. Infinity, Kenwood Excelon, Pioneer, Polk... those are all good brands. I would choose Inifinity over the rest. You said you're not an audiophile so you don't need CDT, Focals, etc. Stay away from Sony, I don't care how cool they look. You could also upgrade the rear speakers, but I'd just do the fronts first, since that's your soundstage and where most of your music should be coming from. Later on down the road you could add an amp, but I'd try the HU and components first, as that might be enough for you.
Some basics:
-Get a high Signal-to-Noise ratio (at least above 90). The higher the number, the better the sound.
-Find a HU with a low FM sensitivity - the lower the number (14 is average, 9 or so is excellent) the better the ability to pick up stations.
Here are a few HU's to get you started:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...D=13857]Alpine CDA-9833[/URL] - has the V-Drive Mosfet internal amp - 26Wx4 RMS, 60Wx4 peak, 105dB Signal-to-Noise ratio, and 9.3 dBf sensitivity. It's not cheap, but if you want just a HU and don't plan on putting in an amp to drive the speakers later on, than this would be a excellent choice.
If you are planning on going with an amp for the speakers later on down the road, then the Apline CDA-9847 would be a better choice than the 9833. Same great features as the 9833, but it's rated lower @ 18Wx4 RMS, 50Wx4 peak. You'd be using preamp outs to go to the amps, so the RMS doesn't matter.
Both play MP3/WMA files, both have front/rear/sub preamps, etc. It's just that one is more made for driving speakers without an amp and still being a good HU with the options for sending signal to aux amps, while the other (9847) is made more for sending signal to the amps, since it only has 18W RMS per channel.
Component set:
If you have 6.5s in the doors, then I would go with the Infinity 6000cs.
Another note on speakers: for every 3db increase in sensitivity, you get twice the sound from the same amount of power. Take these speakers for example... 92db sensitivity. Let's say we're sending them 75W. If you have a speaker that's 89db, then it would take 150W to get the same amount of sound out of the 89db sensitivity speaker. So speaker sensitivity is what you're looking for too. I like to stay above 90db if possible.
So, for under $500, you can have the start of a great system. Or get the 9847 HU for even cheaper and you'll still have a good system. Music is one thing I like in my car, and I don't like to buy junk. I say that if you are going to spend the money, you might as well do it right and do it once.
A good place to buy gear from is thezeb.com and onlinecarstereo.com. I've ordered from both before and they have great prices and service.
Good luck.
You'll need a set of speakers for your front panels... you could go components (matched speaker and tweeter w/crossovers) or standard single speakers (buy 6.5s and tweeters seperately). With components, you'll get better sound since they are matched with tweeters and crossovers, but you'll have to mount the crossovers somewhere. Infinity, Kenwood Excelon, Pioneer, Polk... those are all good brands. I would choose Inifinity over the rest. You said you're not an audiophile so you don't need CDT, Focals, etc.
Stay away from Sony, I don't care how cool they look. You could also upgrade the rear speakers, but I'd just do the fronts first, since that's your soundstage and where most of your music should be coming from. Later on down the road you could add an amp, but I'd try the HU and components first, as that might be enough for you.Some basics:
-Get a high Signal-to-Noise ratio (at least above 90). The higher the number, the better the sound.
-Find a HU with a low FM sensitivity - the lower the number (14 is average, 9 or so is excellent) the better the ability to pick up stations.
Here are a few HU's to get you started:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...D=13857]Alpine CDA-9833[/URL] - has the V-Drive Mosfet internal amp - 26Wx4 RMS, 60Wx4 peak, 105dB Signal-to-Noise ratio, and 9.3 dBf sensitivity. It's not cheap, but if you want just a HU and don't plan on putting in an amp to drive the speakers later on, than this would be a excellent choice.
If you are planning on going with an amp for the speakers later on down the road, then the Apline CDA-9847 would be a better choice than the 9833. Same great features as the 9833, but it's rated lower @ 18Wx4 RMS, 50Wx4 peak. You'd be using preamp outs to go to the amps, so the RMS doesn't matter.
Both play MP3/WMA files, both have front/rear/sub preamps, etc. It's just that one is more made for driving speakers without an amp and still being a good HU with the options for sending signal to aux amps, while the other (9847) is made more for sending signal to the amps, since it only has 18W RMS per channel.
Component set:
If you have 6.5s in the doors, then I would go with the Infinity 6000cs.
Another note on speakers: for every 3db increase in sensitivity, you get twice the sound from the same amount of power. Take these speakers for example... 92db sensitivity. Let's say we're sending them 75W. If you have a speaker that's 89db, then it would take 150W to get the same amount of sound out of the 89db sensitivity speaker. So speaker sensitivity is what you're looking for too. I like to stay above 90db if possible.
So, for under $500, you can have the start of a great system. Or get the 9847 HU for even cheaper and you'll still have a good system. Music is one thing I like in my car, and I don't like to buy junk. I say that if you are going to spend the money, you might as well do it right and do it once.
A good place to buy gear from is thezeb.com and onlinecarstereo.com. I've ordered from both before and they have great prices and service.
Good luck.
Very opinionated but very good advice
Might want to add www.carmedia1.com to your list as well
Trending Topics
i love alpine decks, but from first hand experience, never buy one that only has a parametric EQ. buy one with simple bass/treble *****, or you're really going to be disappointed. i'd rather own a $100 sony xplod deck than an alpine deck with only a parametric EQ...way too complicated for the average listener, and without knowing what you are doing, you'll NEVER get it to sound good.
other decks i'd recommend are the 7894/7995. those are excellent alpine decks, and without the animated dolphins, probably some of the best decks you can find.
other decks i'd recommend are the 7894/7995. those are excellent alpine decks, and without the animated dolphins, probably some of the best decks you can find.
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Originally Posted by Richiec77
YOU. IN HERE PLEASE. That's a great way to sum it up. You can copy and past also to put it in both places.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288715
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288715
Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Very opinionated but very good advice
Actually, I'm curious what makes you think I'm opinionated besides the fact that we all have opinions. 
I was just laying something out to give him a good basic starting point.
Might want to add www.carmedia1.com to your list as well
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I just ordered the Alpine 9833, $299 shipped with install kit from Crutchfileds. I will be running with components, front and rear(mid.hih only), and bazooka. If I later wanter to add amps via RCA inputs front and rear, the unit allows for the amplifier to be shut-off. This is supposed to give better quality signals to the amps. I'm hoping not to need the 4 channel amp I have in place now. I'm trying to lighten the car. Removing the boxed 2-12 suds and sub amp made a huge difference in ride quality (no longer bottoms out).
Originally Posted by DavidNC
I just ordered the Alpine 9833, $299 shipped with install kit from Crutchfileds. I will be running with components, front and rear(mid.hih only), and bazooka. If I later wanter to add amps via RCA inputs front and rear, the unit allows for the amplifier to be shut-off. This is supposed to give better quality signals to the amps. I'm hoping not to need the 4 channel amp I have in place now. I'm trying to lighten the car. Removing the boxed 2-12 suds and sub amp made a huge difference in ride quality (no longer bottoms out).
My bad man. It was late and I'm tired from working long hours.
What I meant is you had a good thought process and approach to his Question. I figured some of the post was worth cropping into the other one. If not, just throw some info you might want to add into the other thread I have running.
I know other Sites deal exclusively on the car stereo subject, but Alot of People visit this site and alot of begineers search the whole site for any info they could want. A thread of advice for those starting out will help a lot of begineers. Can also sway people to start into the hobby.
What I meant is you had a good thought process and approach to his Question. I figured some of the post was worth cropping into the other one. If not, just throw some info you might want to add into the other thread I have running.
I know other Sites deal exclusively on the car stereo subject, but Alot of People visit this site and alot of begineers search the whole site for any info they could want. A thread of advice for those starting out will help a lot of begineers. Can also sway people to start into the hobby.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Originally Posted by super_kev
Wow. Everytime I've looked at Crutchfield they are always more expensive than anywhere else. I guess I'll have to price check with them too. Good find.
You and me both. Crutchfield has consistanly been a little cheaper then full blown retail and we all know in the car stereo world...no one pays retail
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
The Alpine 9833 I bought at Crutchfield for $299 ,delivered with mtg, antenna ext, and wrg harness. It is a great deal, that is still available. Crutchfield bought out stock and discounted it about $150.
The cheapest I found ithe Alpine 9833 anywhere else was $330 plus shipping, w/o install parts.
Crutchfields's priced "can" be good, but you have to be selective. Having said that, I've bought a half dozen head units from them over the years, but only at discounted prices. I've even bought from their return stock.
The cheapest I found ithe Alpine 9833 anywhere else was $330 plus shipping, w/o install parts.
Crutchfields's priced "can" be good, but you have to be selective. Having said that, I've bought a half dozen head units from them over the years, but only at discounted prices. I've even bought from their return stock.
Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Hahah Ill have to re-subscribe to crutchfield I guess.
Just when I thought they would NEVER stop sending me those
Just when I thought they would NEVER stop sending me those
