Like many people I love hearing my engine roar. But sometimes I wish I had a good system to bump my ****. I dont know crap about sound systems! I have a 2001 SS with a tape deck. I know dont ask! I want a in dash 7 inch monitor that has everything( incase I want to put my PS2 or anything else) and a bassy sound w/ at least 2,000 watts. What do u guys recommend?

 

how much you will to spend is the question you should ask yourself?

 

for a really serious system, you're gonna lose your t-top storage, so be prepared for that.

if that's ok, and money is no (or little) concern, keep reading:

get two JL Audio 13w7 subs, each powered by a JL Audio 1000/1 amplifier, in a dual-chambered enclosure that fits down in the hatch well, and is trimmed out like the "Rear Well Enclosure" ( pictured HERE ) that is sold at Subthump, but made for a 13.5" sub instead of a 12". and since the W7 subs from JL Audio are recommended for use with a ported speaker box, i'd definitely have a JL Audio dealer design/build the enclosure for you...ported boxes are really easy to screw up if you don't know EXACTLY what you're doing.

for the fronts, i'd build (or have built) some door panel enclosures that would each house 2 full 6½" component sets, with each component set powered by its own JL Audio 300/2, so that you could keep up with the bass output. you may want to get a spare set of door panels to use for this, in case you ever want to return it to stock. i've photoshopped up some examples of how this could be done and posted them below:



or you could go with a combination door panel/tweeter pod setup like the photos below:



you could also set it up so that you essentially have two full sets of speakers/amps. what i mean by this is that you could install two switches, with each one wired inline to the remote turn-on lead that controls one 1000/1 and one 300/2. this will allow you to turn off one sub and one component set for normal listening, and turn them both on when you really wanna wake up the neighbors, while keeping the midrange/tweets up to level with the bass. it will also allow you to use one set or the other, in case you ever blow a speaker or an amp goes bad.

for the head unit, that's up to you, but i'd highly recommend one with the highest voltage available on the preamp outputs, especially because to do the amp wiring/switch thing above, you'll need to get a splitter that splits the front output to go from 1 to 2 pairs, each going to one 300/2, and the same for the sub amps running off either the rear outputs or the non-fading sub outputs. the reason you will wanna do this is so that the EXACT same signal gets routed to both pairs of components, and likewise with both subs, whenever you have both switches set to the "ON" position. otherwise, your speakers could be out of synch with each other slightly, and screw up the whole sound you're going for.

if the head unit you choose does not have a subwoofer level adjustment on the non-fading output, then i'd recommend using the rear set of preamp outputs instead, so that you can use your front/rear fader to allow level adjustment of your subs. fade with equal levels of front/rear for full-blown bass output, and fade a little more toward the front to reduce the bass output some.

 

Wow, and what would a setup like that cost? $4k? =p

 

I think a budget needs to be known before people can really build you the correct system.

A 3 way component system like the Diamond Audio S600s would nice for the front stage with 2 subthump stealth boxes either 12 or 10 for the bass. They make a great amp rack which would hold the 2 amps and you'd still have your t-top storage and with the right sub some incredible clean bass. You're going to want to do some soundproofing our your hatch area will rattle like a SOB. Also deadening the doors helps the mid bass immensely. JL makes some damn good subs but for the most part they need some space and unless you don't care about your t-top storage I'd go with something cheaper. If you're going to have a shop do the install then you're going to want to go to an authorized dealer because alot of shops will not install gear bought internet wholesale.

 

it would cost a lot. but he never gave any price range for the budget, only that he wanted at least 2000 watts and sometimes wanted to just blast it.

you could save a little cash by substituting two 12w7's instead of 13w7's.

 

Well my mistake I should of set a price range. I rather spend lot's of money on my engine, so my price range is $1,000 and under.

 

you pretty much won't get a 2000+ watt system for under $1000, especially if you get a head unit with the LCD screen built in. check THIS thread for my recommendations on a pretty decent system for under a grand, just substitute the H/U with whatever you decide on.