Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

Bought 2 AS62Q Speakers for the Sail Panels Wired them up plugged them in and its quiet as f*ck! any ideas what i did wrong?

LETHL_SS

iTrader: (21)

Yup, your problem is-------> they are 4ohm speakers and want 90watts RMS. They wont be loud on deck power unless you crank it way up.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

that's it im done asking people what works and what doesn't there never right

LETHL_SS

iTrader: (21)

They are still some good cheap replacements. You can always adjust your fade to have more rear fill if you want to hear them louder or you could get some front replacements to bring those down some to match.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

Stop trying to make me feel better I faded it all to the back and it was barely putting out anything lol

HiTechGent

1. Do you have the Monsoon system? Or are you running off the head unit only?

2. DId you make sure you had the speaker polarity wired right?

It's possible you got a bad pair. Or they are just cheap *** crap. At $25 a pair online, what did you expect?

The fact that they are 4 ohm has little to do with it. Even though a 2 ohm speaker draws twice the electrical power of a 4 ohm speaker at the same volume (voltage) level, that does not mean that a given 2 ohm speaker will necesarily be louder than a 4 ohm speaker. It all depends on how efficient the speaker is at converting that electrical power to sound power. The 4 ohm Alpine SPS-170A's I have in the doors of my SS, are just as loud as the 2 ohm stockers they replaced.

LETHL_SS

iTrader: (21)

Once again what are you basing this info on????

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

I have the monsoon system
I'll double check that.. maybe try reversing it

LETHL_SS

iTrader: (21)

Most times you will never hear a change reversing a connection

Josh_101

Those are the Audiobahn 3ohm mid bass speakers right?

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

atleast he's helping stop being negative

HiTechGent

No. Your thinking of the AMD60Q's.

HiTechGent

The speaker sensitivity (or efficiency) spec is the only commonly given speaker spec that relates electrical power (watts) to sound power (decibels). This measures the actual sound power (volume) produced by the speaker at 1 meter away at a given input level. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers use the same input reference. Most measure sensitivity with an input of 1Wrms of power. Others use an input of 2.83V (which is actually 2W for a 4 ohm speaker). I have also seen one manufacturer who used a reference of 1.5W. So you need to make sure you are comparing apples to apples. If your your looking at full range speakers you'll need to know if the sensitivity rating refers to the woofer or tweeter.

I am not a stereo/audio expert, but I have been an electrical engineer for over a decade. I would like to think I have a fairly good understanding of what watts, meters, and decibels are.

"Sensitivity: The rating of a loudspeaker that indicates the level of a sound intensity that the speaker produces (in dB) at a distance of one meter when it receives one watt of input power. The Efficiency or Sensitivity rating indicates how effectively a speaker converts electrical power from the amplifier into sound pressure. This is frequently related to larger magnet sizes, larger voice coil diameters, and more compliant suspensions. Optimized enclosures are essential in achieving maximum sensitivity, overall. The higher the Decibel number, the more efficient the speaker and the louder it will play with the same input power. While usually more expensive, an efficient speaker helps maximize the potential of the available power. " - Excerpt from OnlineCarStereo.com website.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

err what do i do with the extra connections

HiTechGent

The 2 black things are the components making up the passive crossover. The round disc-like one on the left is a capacitor that should be in series with your tweeter's positive terminal. The other component is either a coil or a resistor. I'm guessing the third terminal is there simply to provide a place to solder the components to. If you have an ohm-meter, check the resistance between the 2 left hand terminals and the left tweeter wire. I'm guessing that one of those will show as "short" (~0 ohms) and the other "open" with respect to the tweeter wire. It's the terminal that is "open" or not connected to the tweeter wire that you need to connect the positive speaker wire to. The fat terminal on the right is, of course, the negative terminal.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

Still trying to let all that info sink in so i wired it wrong it sounds? the last terminal on the left is a smaller terminal like the 2 to the right of it

HiTechGent

Ignore the 2 outside terminals where the tweeter wires attach. In the picture, there are 3 terminals standing 'up'. 2 narrow on the left, and 1 wider one on the right. The negative speaker wire goes to the wide one on the right. The positive speaker wire goes to the one of the ones on the left. One of those should sound a heck of a lot better than the other one.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

Ah I think my monsoon amp maybe bad I'll take it apart in the morning thanks for your help HiTechGent you seem to be very knowledgeable

HiTechGent

Check the AC voltage accross the speaker wires. I'd expect 5 to 10 volts rms, depending on volume setting, give or take.

LETHL_SS

iTrader: (21)

I understand what speaker sesitivity is and how its measured but what I'm curious about is how much that is relative compared to what operating voltages the manufacturer designs the speaker for.

Like your Alpines are 4 ohm speakers, 92dB sensitivity, and rated at 2-40W RMS (which is totallly within the limits of the stock Monsoon system even being at 4 ohms). While Camaroz's speakers are also 4 ohms, a higher efficiency at 94dB, but has a desired RMS of 90watts.

I've been reading up on similar instances for a while now and it leads me to think think that while efficiency is important, the voltage drop from switching to a higher load impedance and how a manufacturer designs the speaker makes it a negligible factor on how loud it will actually get.