New F-Body Stereo Setup Q's
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New F-Body Stereo Setup Q's
Ok, I've ditched the idea of adding a powered sub tube on top of the stock Monsoon. The Monsoon has got to go.
So, I'm thinking new head unit (obviously), 5-channel Alpine amplifier, 4 new speakers in stock locations, and a sub box in the old cd changer's spot.
Now, the questions:
1. Where is the best place to mount a single aftermarket amplifier if I don't want to lose too much usable trunk space, especially not in my t-top storage, and I don't have the skill/patience to fabricate an elaborate mount?
2. Would it be worth it to use component systems in place just speakers? I'd have to drill the door panels and the rear seat side panels to mount the tweeters obviously. That would theoretically give me more opportunity to aim the highs to the best positions but would it really make that big of a difference to justify the price difference and labor/hassle factor?
3. The amp will be powering the 6.5/6.75 main speakers and the sub. Would it be worth it to run speaker wire from the head unit to power new 4" speakers in the rear sail panels or should I just leave those out of the new equation?
4. Where should I focus my sound deadening efforts? Since I'll have the interior torn pretty much completely apart for this I should put at least something down to help the new stuff sound that much better.
Thanks for any input y'all can provide. I'll keep everyone posted as things progress after I get started.
So, I'm thinking new head unit (obviously), 5-channel Alpine amplifier, 4 new speakers in stock locations, and a sub box in the old cd changer's spot.
Now, the questions:
1. Where is the best place to mount a single aftermarket amplifier if I don't want to lose too much usable trunk space, especially not in my t-top storage, and I don't have the skill/patience to fabricate an elaborate mount?
2. Would it be worth it to use component systems in place just speakers? I'd have to drill the door panels and the rear seat side panels to mount the tweeters obviously. That would theoretically give me more opportunity to aim the highs to the best positions but would it really make that big of a difference to justify the price difference and labor/hassle factor?
3. The amp will be powering the 6.5/6.75 main speakers and the sub. Would it be worth it to run speaker wire from the head unit to power new 4" speakers in the rear sail panels or should I just leave those out of the new equation?
4. Where should I focus my sound deadening efforts? Since I'll have the interior torn pretty much completely apart for this I should put at least something down to help the new stuff sound that much better.
Thanks for any input y'all can provide. I'll keep everyone posted as things progress after I get started.
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Originally Posted by Tobynine9
Ok, I've ditched the idea of adding a powered sub tube on top of the stock Monsoon. The Monsoon has got to go.
Originally Posted by Tobynine9
So, I'm thinking new head unit (obviously), 5-channel Alpine amplifier, 4 new speakers in stock locations, and a sub box in the old cd changer's spot.
Originally Posted by Tobynine9
Now, the questions:
1. Where is the best place to mount a single aftermarket amplifier if I don't want to lose too much usable trunk space, especially not in my t-top storage, and I don't have the skill/patience to fabricate an elaborate mount?
1. Where is the best place to mount a single aftermarket amplifier if I don't want to lose too much usable trunk space, especially not in my t-top storage, and I don't have the skill/patience to fabricate an elaborate mount?
Originally Posted by Tobynine9
2. Would it be worth it to use component systems in place just speakers? I'd have to drill the door panels and the rear seat side panels to mount the tweeters obviously. That would theoretically give me more opportunity to aim the highs to the best positions but would it really make that big of a difference to justify the price difference and labor/hassle factor?
Originally Posted by Tobynine9
3. The amp will be powering the 6.5/6.75 main speakers and the sub. Would it be worth it to run speaker wire from the head unit to power new speakers in the rear sail panels or should I just leave those out of the new equation?
Originally Posted by Tobynine9
4. Where should I focus my sound deadening efforts? Since I'll have the interior torn pretty much completely apart for this I should put at least something down to help the new stuff sound that much better.
Originally Posted by Tobynine9
Thanks for any input y'all can provide. I'll keep everyone posted as things progress after I get started.
Last edited by Snootch; 01-09-2006 at 11:04 AM.
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The perfect time to do some sound deadening... I was considering doing something a little less intensive. If I wasn't going to coat the whole inside of the car and add 100+ pounds of weight where would I focus? Doors, obviously. Transmission tunnel? Wheel wells? B-Pillar? Get what I mean?
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Originally Posted by Tobynine9
The perfect time to do some sound deadening... I was considering doing something a little less intensive. If I wasn't going to coat the whole inside of the car and add 100+ pounds of weight where would I focus? Doors, obviously. Transmission tunnel? Wheel wells? B-Pillar? Get what I mean?
1- doors
2- wheel wells
3- firewall
4- transmission tunnel
5- b-pillar/wheel wells
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Sounds like you have the right idea. I run a similar set up with a Rockford Fosgate 600.5 and a 120.2. I ran the 600.5 by itself for some time powering Infinty 6012i in the doors and Infinity 6.5in mid bass in the sail panels. The sub was a RF HE2 in a drivers side stealth box. I have an extra stealth box if you need one. I went with a passenger side stealth box and cut out the spare so I now have two 10in RF HE2 subs. That's why I needed the 120.2 which I have bridged into the other sub. I just wanted to get a descent SPL level. SQ is still pretty good as well. I have both amps connected by a RF amp bridge that makes it look like one huge amp (these are older RF amps). It is mounted on the rear sill. By using stealth boxes you give up little or no cargo area and are able to use T-top area and still get lots of bass. Good luck with your project!!
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Supposedly its a JL Audio but it has no markings to verify this. I know it is not an MTX because those actually say MTX in the plastic and I have one of those too. It is a driverside stealthbox and it is NOT a homemade one. It is molded plastic just like my MTX. Fits where the changer would go and it fits perfect. This one acutally fits better than my MTX Thunderform. It sounds great as well. I tested it with an Alpine Type-E svc sub and a RF HE2 dvc sub and both sounded amazing! Cool how you can get so much bass outa such a small enclosure. This was using the RF120.2 amp so there wasn't huge power going to it either. Email me and I can send some pics...ivkee@bellsouth.net
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what i did to my car was take out the spare tire and mount my amp in there ill post pics if you want and then i put a stealth box so basically it looks like the box is factory.
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The spare tire is so small, if I had to use it, I would probably scrape with my LT headers. I just carry a small air pump and sometimes on long trips some fix a flat. My amp and cap are in the area where the tire was and saves weight without that tire.
I went cheap with my setup and kept the stock monsoon amp. I went with a Kenwood deck and have all the lower bass cutoff and only plays mid bass in the rear seat speakers and I set it with slighly less bass up front. I added Infinity 2ohm 62.7i speakers up front, they are coax speakers, but setup like seperates with seperate bass and tweeter inputs and rotate for better imaging and the tweeter is able to be turned to get 2db more highs. I kept the stock back seat speakers, but with all the lower bass cut out using the Kenwood, I don't get the crap sound like before and has good fill now. I wanted to save weight, so I coverd both plastic panels in the hatch area with sound deadening(eDead) and put Pioneer 4inch speakers in and made a pocket and covered the backside of the 4inch speakers to make the sound project out better, it worked and they sound great now. I put in a MTX 2150x old school amp(about 450 watts rms true power) into 4ohm mono, running 2 Memphis Audio 10 inch PR subs in a flip up Millhouse box so I still have full use of the t top area and can remove it in seconds for the track. I added some eDead in the T top well and the back where the tailights are. Even only using about 14 lbs of eDead, the bass is a lot better and sounds great. Combined with the Infinity speakers up front and cutting off all the low bass in the other speakers the stock Monsoon amp sounds really good and I can't hear the distortion like when totally stock. It is hard to tell someone how good it sounds, but in person it really sound great.
I went cheap with my setup and kept the stock monsoon amp. I went with a Kenwood deck and have all the lower bass cutoff and only plays mid bass in the rear seat speakers and I set it with slighly less bass up front. I added Infinity 2ohm 62.7i speakers up front, they are coax speakers, but setup like seperates with seperate bass and tweeter inputs and rotate for better imaging and the tweeter is able to be turned to get 2db more highs. I kept the stock back seat speakers, but with all the lower bass cut out using the Kenwood, I don't get the crap sound like before and has good fill now. I wanted to save weight, so I coverd both plastic panels in the hatch area with sound deadening(eDead) and put Pioneer 4inch speakers in and made a pocket and covered the backside of the 4inch speakers to make the sound project out better, it worked and they sound great now. I put in a MTX 2150x old school amp(about 450 watts rms true power) into 4ohm mono, running 2 Memphis Audio 10 inch PR subs in a flip up Millhouse box so I still have full use of the t top area and can remove it in seconds for the track. I added some eDead in the T top well and the back where the tailights are. Even only using about 14 lbs of eDead, the bass is a lot better and sounds great. Combined with the Infinity speakers up front and cutting off all the low bass in the other speakers the stock Monsoon amp sounds really good and I can't hear the distortion like when totally stock. It is hard to tell someone how good it sounds, but in person it really sound great.