removeing monsoon and installing new system..help?
Last edited by slt200mph; May 31, 2006 at 02:43 PM.
Do you mean that I'll have to run new speaker wires to the after market speakers that are replacing the stock ones.
Remember, in the stock Monsoon setup tweeters are driven by the head unit, while woofers are driven by the amplifier. The amplifier has built-in low pass filters for the woofer outputs. 3-ways are not going to work very well if you use the Monsoon amplifier.
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The Circuit City guys did a good job of selling you more equipment than you need. The amp won't catch fire if connected to an aftermarket head unit. It also won't reduce your gas mileage, or say nasty things, or chase little old ladies around the parking lot. It's designed for speaker-level input. Whether that comes from a factory or aftermarket head unit doesn't really make much difference. Now, if you get a high-powered aftermarket HU and really crank it up you could blow the radio accy fuse. But that's what fuses are for - to prevent electrical overheating and fires.
I tried using ohms law and logic against them but it didn't work out. Eventually they told me to "go ahead and ******* try it then".
It is not a good idea to run stock speakers directly off an aftermarket head unit, because they are 2 ohms. But unless you run wiring directly to the speakers, the head unit is just feeding the amp, which is then driving the speakers. In this case everything is fine.
Here are facts:
1.) You won't endanger your monsoon amp or your infinity speakers by hooking them up to each other. So long as you understand what wires go to what driver.
2.) The monsoon amp, shoddy as it is, is still much stronger than an integrated head unit amp. It is a little complicated, but if you are 100% that you will NEVER be adding an aftermarket amp for the main 4 channels, it is worth the effort to hook them up through the monsoon amp.
- head unit hooked up straight harness
- front infinities bi-wired to existing front door wire pairs
- rear infinity woofer hooked up to existing 2 ohm pair of wires, rear infinity tweeters hooked up to existing hatch panel wires.
- rear hatch speakers = trash, sail panel 4 ohm woofer wiring = tied off.
This will get everything up and running off the monsoon amp, and it will be stronger than the head unit. The amp is NOT the weak point of the monsoon system. The factory head unit feeds it distortion, and the factory speakers can't hold the power. The amp is actually serviceable. Not great, by any means, but very usable.
You don't have to listen to this advice, but I can tell you it will be louder with more power than using your deck's amp. Plus, the only wires you'll need to run are a jumper to get the hatch speakers up to the rear infinity tweeter.
But it is only worth the trouble if you are not going to upgrade to an aftermarket amp, because you have to mod the infinity's to bi-wire them.
In all honesty if you are dead set with running wires anyways, I'd just pick up a simple 50x4 or so amp and be done with it. It'll be money well spent. The infinities are wasted on head unit power.
Last edited by todddchi; Jun 4, 2006 at 07:07 PM.
I tried using ohms law and logic against them but it didn't work out. Eventually they told me to "go ahead and ******* try it then".
It is not a good idea to run stock speakers directly off an aftermarket head unit, because they are 2 ohms. But unless you run wiring directly to the speakers, the head unit is just feeding the amp, which is then driving the speakers. In this case everything is fine.
Here are facts:
1.) You won't endanger your monsoon amp or your infinity speakers by hooking them up to each other. So long as you understand what wires go to what driver.
2.) The monsoon amp, shoddy as it is, is still much stronger than an integrated head unit amp. It is a little complicated, but if you are 100% that you will NEVER be adding an aftermarket amp for the main 4 channels, it is worth the effort to hook them up through the monsoon amp.
- head unit hooked up straight harness
- front infinities bi-wired to existing front door wire pairs
- rear infinity woofer hooked up to existing 2 ohm pair of wires, rear infinity tweeters hooked up to existing hatch panel wires.
- rear hatch speakers = trash, sail panel 4 ohm woofer wiring = tied off.
This will get everything up and running off the monsoon amp, and it will be stronger than the head unit. The amp is NOT the weak point of the monsoon system. The factory head unit feeds it distortion, and the factory speakers can't hold the power. The amp is actually serviceable. Not great, by any means, but very usable.
You don't have to listen to this advice, but I can tell you it will be louder with more power than using your deck's amp. Plus, the only wires you'll need to run are a jumper to get the hatch speakers up to the rear infinity tweeter.
But it is only worth the trouble if you are not going to upgrade to an aftermarket amp, because you have to mod the infinity's to bi-wire them.
In all honesty if you are dead set with running wires anyways, I'd just pick up a simple 50x4 or so amp and be done with it. It'll be money well spent. The infinities are wasted on head unit power.
Thanks for the info..I am a little slow to respond..I have been on the hot rod power tour for the past 6 days and just got back..going to install the new stereo very soon...from what you say it looks like I should just go a head and get a good aftermarket amp and wire it up once and for all.






