Aftermarket HU and Speakers?
09-12-2006, 01:25 PM
#1
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Aftermarket HU and Speakers? Hey guys I currently have a pioneer aftermarket HU. The stock speakers are still in the car and finally blew up. 
Can I buy 4ohm speakers for the front since I have a aftermarket HU? I know that the stock stuff is 2ohm, but I didn't know if the stock HU was out of the car if it was okay to get 4ohm stuff.
thanks
aaron
Can I buy 4ohm speakers for the front since I have a aftermarket HU? I know that the stock stuff is 2ohm, but I didn't know if the stock HU was out of the car if it was okay to get 4ohm stuff.
thanks
aaron
09-12-2006, 01:45 PM
#2
you could but it will sound like crap, the monsoon amp usually makes aftermarket speakers sound crappy, if your speakers blew then i would eithor buy an amp to power new speakers or buy some replacement monsoon speakers.
09-12-2006, 03:55 PM
#4
TECH Addict
Running 4 ohm speakers with a system designed for 2 ohm speakers will lose you 3dB of max volume (headroom). Make sure the speakers are efficient (I'd say 92dB 1W/1m would be good) if you don't want to use an aftermarket external amp.
09-12-2006, 03:58 PM
#5
The amp is actually the best part of the Monsoon system so if you don't want to spend a lot of money then go ahead and just replace the speakers. A lot of people get hung up about the 2-ohm versus 4-ohm thing but it really doesn't make much difference. The amp is 4-ohm stable and your aftermarket speakers will be sufficiently more efficient than the factory speakers to make up for the reduced volume normally caused by increasing the impedance.
09-12-2006, 04:21 PM
#6
100% agreement with Whitebird. Get aftermarket coaxials you like, regardless of them being 4 or 2 ohm, but if INSIST on 2 ohm being a big deal then go ahead with Infinity, JBL, or one of the other 2 ohm options.
The ONLY thing that matters in this case is that the speaker supports bi-wiring of the woofer and tweeter. Not all coaxials do.
Bi-wire them like stock, still using the monsoon amp. Smile and be happy at how much better they sound than the stock speakers. Smile again knowing they sound much better than they would be driven off the head unit, even though it is an aftermarket deck.
4 ohm speakers cut the power down sent to the speakers by the amp. But the aftermarket speaker (if you choose correctly) is more sensitive, and the aftermarket deck you have feeds the monsoon amp a cleaner signal to full volume. Both of these contribute to properly wired aftermarket 4 ohms using the monsoon amp stomping all over factory monsoons, or aftermarkets being driven off an aftermarket head unit.
Countless people post up that thier aftermarket replacements don't sound as good as monsoons because they are 4 ohm or whatever, but this simply isn't true. If you do the installation and wiring correctly it will sound very good compared to stock.
The ONLY thing that matters in this case is that the speaker supports bi-wiring of the woofer and tweeter. Not all coaxials do.
Bi-wire them like stock, still using the monsoon amp. Smile and be happy at how much better they sound than the stock speakers. Smile again knowing they sound much better than they would be driven off the head unit, even though it is an aftermarket deck.
4 ohm speakers cut the power down sent to the speakers by the amp. But the aftermarket speaker (if you choose correctly) is more sensitive, and the aftermarket deck you have feeds the monsoon amp a cleaner signal to full volume. Both of these contribute to properly wired aftermarket 4 ohms using the monsoon amp stomping all over factory monsoons, or aftermarkets being driven off an aftermarket head unit.
Countless people post up that thier aftermarket replacements don't sound as good as monsoons because they are 4 ohm or whatever, but this simply isn't true. If you do the installation and wiring correctly it will sound very good compared to stock.
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09-12-2006, 04:26 PM
#8
Yes, so long as the previous head unit install just touched the deck... then your factory amp and speaker wiring should be intact.
This means there are a set of leads for the tweeters and a set of leads for the woofer. You need to send them to the same drivers on your aftermarkets.
This is where most people hose up because they don't understand that, just try using one pair of wires or doing some crazy parrallel job, and then of course the result is crap. Despite the fact that it's discussed 1000 times and in the stickys.
This means there are a set of leads for the tweeters and a set of leads for the woofer. You need to send them to the same drivers on your aftermarkets.
This is where most people hose up because they don't understand that, just try using one pair of wires or doing some crazy parrallel job, and then of course the result is crap. Despite the fact that it's discussed 1000 times and in the stickys.
09-12-2006, 04:55 PM
#9
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Great info guys! I think im going to stick with the Monsoon Amp. Where is it even located?
One more question, How do I know if the aftermarket speakers support bi-wiring? Sorry for all the simple quesitons I haven't messed with systems in a few years after getting into racing alot.
One more question, How do I know if the aftermarket speakers support bi-wiring? Sorry for all the simple quesitons I haven't messed with systems in a few years after getting into racing alot.
09-12-2006, 06:54 PM
#10
The monsoon amp is just in front of your spare tire.
You'll know if the monsoon wiring/amp has been left in place if the amp is warm to the touch and the speakers still have 4 wires going to them. So long as that is what you find then you'll be all set to bi-wire up your new ones.
Take a look through the stickys for the Alpines and search for images. The main thing is that the speakers can be modded to make seperate connections to the tweeter and woofer, while still using the capacitor (crossover) on the tweeter.
Some speakers are already setup like this with connections (some infinitys for example), while some require mods (like the Alpines). But there are some where the tweeter wire is ran through the cone directly rather than through the rear center of the magnet/coil structure. Those are the ones you can't use, at least not easily.
You'll know if the monsoon wiring/amp has been left in place if the amp is warm to the touch and the speakers still have 4 wires going to them. So long as that is what you find then you'll be all set to bi-wire up your new ones.
Take a look through the stickys for the Alpines and search for images. The main thing is that the speakers can be modded to make seperate connections to the tweeter and woofer, while still using the capacitor (crossover) on the tweeter.
Some speakers are already setup like this with connections (some infinitys for example), while some require mods (like the Alpines). But there are some where the tweeter wire is ran through the cone directly rather than through the rear center of the magnet/coil structure. Those are the ones you can't use, at least not easily.
