Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

I am planing on running a big stereo system in my 2000 Firebird T/a, 2 amps 1000rms watts a piece for two subwoofers, and a nother amp about 300-600rms watts for the other 10 speakers. I was wondering if i instaled a 250 amp alternator, with a 2,000-2,500 amp deep cycle battery, and 1 capacitor per amp would this be enough power so that nothing else is effected (ex. lights dimming, shorts, etc....)
Thanks!

CaliforniaBoy5

iTrader: (16)

1st off, What are the model amps you will be running. this is very imporatnt to calculate wattage and what subwoofers? Also, if your running over 1500 watts RMS then you will need a HO alternator. 250 is plently. I would do the HO alternator + the BIG 3 with 0 gauge wire. Battery wise what were you thinking? Optima Yellow/Blue top? Northstar? Kintek?

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

The subwoofers i am looking at are Alpine 12" Type-X, and two of Alpine MRD-M1005, or PDX-1.1000 amps for the subwoofers, and a Focal FP4.75 for the mids and highs. The battery i am looking at is Kinetik HC2000

CaliforniaBoy5

iTrader: (16)

If your running the Type X's you WILL need a sealed box because you won't be able to get 4cubic feet out of the trunk to do it ported. Do you have a box yet? Who will be doing all of the work?

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

Sry, i 4got to say i was going to use a sealed box, the box will be made by SubThump, the sealed box has about 1.1cu. ft. per speaker. Dual 12s.
http://www.subthump.com/acamarottop.htm

Element

iTrader: (5)

Caps are worthless in a situation like this.

You don't need a HO alt. I was running a system with pretty much the same wattage you're looking at (although amperage requirements are a lot more important, since 100w RMS Amp X might be a hell of a lot more inefficient than 100w RMS Amp Z, which means X draws more amperage for the same power output). Also, you don't need a deep cycle battery unles you plan on cranking the system a lot with the vehicle off. A standard "starter" battery will work just as well, assuming you get a decent one. I was running an Everstart MAXX from Wal Mart (don't laugh, spec'd better than Optimas), but I believe a different company is manufacturing them now and they aren't as good. Regardless, a deep cycle is also not required.

One thing to remember with a HO alt is that most of them don't put out near the amperage at engine idle speeds than stock alts put out. The majority of HO alts don't even start charging until past 1200rpm. That means that when idling, you'd be running on battery power, and if you get a lond, deep hit then, the car shuts off. You can have HO alts built (Dominik Iraggi is the best I can think of) that'll charge at idle; however, those typically don't have the same "peak" numbers HO alts that don't start charging until at higher speeds have.

Another thing to consider is that, with 1000w RMS going to each sub (even in a tiny 1.1 cube sealed box, and I hope to hell that isn't for both subs), in an f-body with serious cabin gain, you're going to be overpowering your front stage like a bitch, or you'll have the front stuff cranked so high to match the sub output, listening to it will be painful. It's much better to have a matched setup (in this case, I'd imagine 1 12" with 1000w RMS in that 1.1cuft box) that performs, instead of having a ghetto-loud system. Since I doubt you'll be seriously competing with this setup, really consider scaling the subwoofer side back, unless you really WANT to only hear bass. I've been down that road, and it sucked. It was novel for the first few days, then it just got annoying when I wanted to hear lyrics and music, and not just bass.

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

Very good info Element, and CaliforniaBoy5, i probley will look into smaller power maybe, i would also like to hear something other than bass, i am guessing the car is shaped like a magnophone, and subs in the back would produce too much with alpine type X, but are they good sub to begin with? or should i go with Boston G5124 or G51244? Thanks!

Element

iTrader: (5)

The Type X subs had some issues at launch, with the "accordian" style surrounds detaching. Not sure if that's been fixed or what, since it was back in, what, '04 when they launched?

There are better subs for better prices, like RE and Adire. Never heard of anyone running Boston subs in anything but an SQ setup, where output wasn't a major concern.

CaliforniaBoy5

iTrader: (16)

Why not run ONE Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" ? its an amazing subwoofer and you this way have a lot of room to work with going even ported if you would like.

My concerns with RE now is that they have sold out and i know thier quality has taken a hit. Boston Acoustics is always solid stuff too! Stayin with the same amps will be fine. Alpine power=clean power.

Element

iTrader: (5)

ID's stuff is pretty damn good, and that's a good recommendation. Definitely enough output for an f-body cabin, and plenty of SQ too.

Hadn't heard that about RE, but I haven't been on the audio forums for a while. I'll have to check that out, because I was going to do a dual 15" SX setup in my brother's car.

CaliforniaBoy5

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, RE sold out just recently. I believe in October/November of 06'. RE's prices has reflected that in a negetive way. I believe more expensive and lower quality . . Element. . have you you heard FI subs?

wickedwarlock

iTrader: (4)

It's the opposite from what I have done research on. Most HO alts are designed to get 75% of their power output by 800rpms and full power by 2k. Even at an automatic idle at 650rpms, most will put around 60% of their rated output. Some of the bigger brands are even higher.

4alterstart, excessive amperage are just a few. I can go over my notes and from about a year ago, I have at least 12 on the list. 4alterstart gives a 2 year warranty, which is untouchable by anyone that I've done research on.

Skip01

Lower Quality....Nope

More Expensive.....Yes...but its not that much if you get it from a dealer...MSRP has jumped alot but normal dealer prices are not that much more than before.

Excluding the new XXX...it has a entirely diff design than the 05 model soo its price has gone up a lot...but they are still one of the best subs out.

Also for a much cheaper price and same qualtiy check out FI Car Audio...For there top of the line BTL sub its like 450shipped...5k watts of handling.

But i really dont think u need that much to get loud in a TA imho.
1-2 10" of their lower line with about 500watts each would be more than enough for any normal audio seeker.....now for a bass head like myself...18" all the way..haha

As far as Alts...any good quality built alt shouldl put out more at idle than a gay eBay HO alt which would require 2k rev just to peak over the OE alt.

Try Iraggi alts....dude is an animal..and not that bad a price considering...200amp alt should do u just fine...and no capactior..worthless


Good Luck

CaliforniaBoy5

iTrader: (16)

capacitors are like a band-aid to a weak electrical system. Do the big 3 instead:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355

I have a cap, but only because it looks cool. lol.

Skip01

Haha..me too...only had one for the digital volt meter on it

CaliforniaBoy5

iTrader: (16)

yes! exactly because of the voltage reading! lol

PlatnumStatuz

iTrader: (6)

My "gay eBay" alt does 246A at 2k lets see your OE do that

Skip01

I said it would take a rev to 2k for a HO alt from eBay to be efficient....what does urs do at idle?

My OE alt is 65amps haha...soo clearly mine would not.

And please dont tell me Autozone or a similar store tested it....than ur results are horribly off.

Its just the nature of a bad quality HO alt to make more as revs go up and sacrifice it at idle....yes my HO eBay alt(135amp) does suck

PlatnumStatuz

iTrader: (6)

55A @ 600rpms

Skip01

That was my point

Quoted from an FBody faqs:

F-body Electrical Accessories Questions



1.Charging system upgrades (96firebird311)
If you having problems with your headlights dimming and your voltage meter dipping, you’re in for a charging system upgrade. But what to do first? Before you replace/buy anything, you should upgrade the “big 3”. Upgrade the wiring from alternator to battery, battery to chassis and engine block to chassis. Ensure bare metal to bare metal connect and you’d be surprised what it can do for your stereo. Still having problems? If your problems are slight, meaning small amounts of headlight dimming during bass notes, try a capacitor. Capacitors installed near the amp can help your amp with the brief transient time when you exceed your alternator's current capacity, and the extra current is drawn from a relatively slow-responding battery... the relatively lightning fast cap can fill in. Be sure to install it as close as possible to the amp. Start with only a single farad but don’t buy more then two or three farads total. At $70+ a piece, you’ve spent enough money to buy our next upgrade. A high output alternator. If you have large dimming issues, skip the caps entirely and go for the throat. The alternator is the source of all your car’s juice. The biggest thing to look for when buying a H/O alternator is it’s idle output, sometimes called it’s “cold rating”. Many alternators claim to output 180amps…..which they do…. but only at 2k RPM or above! At idle, they don’t even output as much as the stock alt. Completely useless for a daily driver. Remember to upgrade your alternator to battery wire to accommodate the additional amperage and you’ll be good to go. But what about extra batteries? Having extra batteries will indeed keep your voltage level at 12V for a longer period of time, but if your alternator can’t keep them charged they will soon become useless. Unless you plan on charging your batteries every night or compete in SPL, batteries are not your answer. Not for a daily diver. By upgrading the alternator, you have upgraded the source of all that is electrical in your car. Plus you’ll continue to run at 14.4V. Just as you should.

Bolded the point i was tryin to get across