power antenna output
power antenna output Where should I connect the power antenna output ? I have a 01 trans am, I don't want the thing up all the time only when radio's on. I'm setting up a whole new system.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
That really depends on the head unit. If you have a factory head unit, the pink wire for the power antenna is active whenever the head unit is on regardless of whether you're listening to radio or CD. That can't be changed (unless you know a lot about the inner workings and want to get in there with a soldering iron).
If you have an aftermarket head unit there will be a designated power antenna wire that may or may not be active when using CDs - it varies from make to make and even from model to model.
If you have an aftermarket head unit there will be a designated power antenna wire that may or may not be active when using CDs - it varies from make to make and even from model to model.
My HU has a audio mute lead, orange- battery always, red - ignition, yellow- light switch terminal, black - ground, then theres a System control terminal of the power amp or Auto-antenna relay control terminal. I'm guessing i try there?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by fortmyerspolice
My HU has a audio mute lead, orange- battery always, red - ignition, yellow- light switch terminal, black - ground, then theres a System control terminal of the power amp or Auto-antenna relay control terminal. I'm guessing i try there?
The system control terminal is probably what they call the remote turn-on lead for triggering an external amplifier when the head unit is on. The audio mute lead is for use with a cell phone or similar device such as a GPS) that you want to have mute the music when it produces signal. The others are input rather than output. Orange maintains the HU's memory, red turns it on with the ignition, yellow dims the display when the headlights are on, and black is the electrical ground.
Thanks, also one more question. Off topic but I have a 4 channel bridgeable amp. I want to bridge it into 2 channels. Would each channel be left and right?(assuming thats right), or front and back? Also when doing this i hook the speaker wires coming from the sailpanel speaker and the front speakers together right?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The real question is why would you want to do that? Bridging an amp is a technique used to get more power to half the speakers. For example, it is useful for connecting a single sub to a two channel amp. But if you're still going to run four speakers anyway, you're better off to just leave it as a four channel amp. For one thing, bridging and then connecting two speakers per channel will make you lose fader control.
You also run into a speaker wiring problem. Let's say you've got an amp that is rated 60W x 4 into 4-ohms, 90W x 4 into 2-ohms, and 180W x 2 into 4-ohms (these are not unusual numbers). Let's also assume you've replaced the Monsoon 2-ohm speakers with more common 4-ohm aftermarket speakers. The problem is that there is no way to wire two 4-ohm speakers on one side to produce a total 4-ohm load for the amp when bridged. Wiring in series produces an 8-ohm load and wiring in parallel produces a 2-ohm load but the amp isn't 2-ohm stable when bridged. You'd be better off getting 2-ohm speakers and use the 90W x 4 setup (180W per side - the same total output as when bridged).
You also run into a speaker wiring problem. Let's say you've got an amp that is rated 60W x 4 into 4-ohms, 90W x 4 into 2-ohms, and 180W x 2 into 4-ohms (these are not unusual numbers). Let's also assume you've replaced the Monsoon 2-ohm speakers with more common 4-ohm aftermarket speakers. The problem is that there is no way to wire two 4-ohm speakers on one side to produce a total 4-ohm load for the amp when bridged. Wiring in series produces an 8-ohm load and wiring in parallel produces a 2-ohm load but the amp isn't 2-ohm stable when bridged. You'd be better off getting 2-ohm speakers and use the 90W x 4 setup (180W per side - the same total output as when bridged).
yeah i'll be buying infinitys so there 2 ohm. my amp is rated at 60 watts x 4 at 2 ohms. I think i know that previously my amps were bridged before(had them in a 91 rs) and they pounded. My sub amp is rated at 300x1 @ 4 ohm. 150x2 at 2 ohm. In the manual it says under Load Impendance (bridge connection: 2-8 ohms allowable). my subs are 4 ohm. Would I run them in series? Parallel?
so running both on 1 channel would gain me more power
so running both on 1 channel would gain me more power
Last edited by fortmyerspolice; Jun 15, 2007 at 10:18 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Two 4-ohm subs in parallel will produce 2-ohms total load. Two 4-ohm subs in series will produce 8-ohms total. So either would be acceptable for that amp but the lower impedance will produce more power.
The amount of power is unknown according to your specs. You would be looking for ???W x 1 @ 2-ohms or ???W x 2 @ 4-ohms.
The amount of power is unknown according to your specs. You would be looking for ???W x 1 @ 2-ohms or ???W x 2 @ 4-ohms.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks man, parallel would be connecting from the - terminal of the amp to both - terminals on the subs and the + terminal of the amp to both + terminals of the subs?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by fortmyerspolice
Thanks man, parallel would be connecting from the - terminal of the amp to both - terminals on the subs and the + terminal of the amp to both + terminals of the subs?
