cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

2.73 cu ft internal before displacements .


Started out with a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4'' MDF for $22.00 , used a straight edge/ bar clamps and cut out my pieces with a skill saw .




Here is all the peices cut / dryfitted and now ready for assembly .




My work bench consisted of sawhorses / the leftover MDF [ this will turn into a amp rack later ] .



Few tools/items needed for assembly .. wood glue , #6 1 5/8'' coarse thread drywall screws , universal #6 -#8 countersink / drill fixture , 90 degree corner clamps , bar clamps , drill , peice of plastic to catch the glue from getting all over the floor . Dont forget the pencil / measuring device of your choice . Also used an old testlight for a starter hole to center the bit . Silicone to seal the box air tight .



Now onto the assembly , I started with premarking a 3/4'' line around the bottom peice to give me a quick reference . Pre fit dry , set my conerclamps , loosened peice side of conerclamps , lay in glue pretty heavy , fix peice finally , tighten your coner clamps for a square fit . Set bar clamps as even as possible , tighten together , let set for a few minutes and take a break .




After it has a few minutes for the glue to set , I used the countersink/drill fixture and predrilled my screw holes in the marks that I had pre assembly marked out . Since I am using 3/4'' material I went right in the middle 3/8'' . If you do not predrill it stands a good chance of ripping the material . Once predrilled , I then switched to a phillips bit and applied the screws .



Same steps for the rest , here you can see the corner clamp preset and ready for the side peice.



Side peice glued / bar clamps again set and tightened together evenly as possible . No pictures of it but after it had some time for the glue to set I once again predrilled/countersink , screwed together.




Other side ..





Heres the premarked holes..



See the indention made by the testlight , will help guide the bit straight and will not rub off . I even marked the 3/4'' thickness as another reference . This is screwed in on the bottom & sides pics ..








I let it cure overnight , next day I removed the clamps ..

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

Next peice to be assembled was the front , this had an angled top & bottom cut so it fits flat with the top & bottom peices .

I also should have had more bar clamps but the peice fit pretty good on the bottom , fit good on the side from 3/4 down .

Heres some pics of were I had a little off fittment at the very top , used the bar clamps to secure the peice while I applied the screws.





Next to come was the top baffle . First I needed the subs inside cut diameter which was 11.125'' for the sub I am using ..

Fi Caraudio Q 12'' , dual 1 ohm voice coil , no upgrades [ actually .7 ohm per coil ]




I used a jigsaw to cutout the holes , used a file / sand paper to have a finer finish .



Dryfitted to the box ..






I am going ported and with space limitations I am using 2 3'' flared Precision Aeroports , going to be tuned to 32 Hz .




To get good distance for the ports off the bottom of the boxes floor I used a second baffle . I designed the box to near max height so the sub needs to stay lower mounted to the first bafle . To do this I need to cutout around the outside diameter of the sub which in my case was 12.500'' . I also used a jigsaw to cut this peice , filed and sanded to a near perfect fit . Port holes are also cut at this time , but only on the top baffle .




After this all looked good I marked the final cut for the ports . I wanted to have some bracing so I cut the hole near the tubes outside diameter 3 1/8'' .



Ports test fitted ..

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

Now lets see if the SOB even fits !








After some sanding to the sides / bottom it dropped some more ..









Time to finally mount the top baffle , I doubled up on the screws here since the sub will be beating on it ..







This is as far as I have made it . Need a few odds & ends to finish it up .
Even though the box looks massive , its pretty lightweight . The box build / ports came in costwise under $100.00 .

I'll update as progression happens , thanks for looking

pentavolvo

Wow doing a very nice box build there

I usually use liquid nails and nail gun and just slam it together.

Im sure its gonna sound BA

fredmr39

nice - similar to mine - I only used half the well though for a single 12" (not ported either)

squeals99

iTrader: (8)

nice write up
ive been wanting to do this for my 12, but i have a question for ya which may sound stupid because ive never built a box for a sub before, but how are you going to run your speaker wire out of the box? just drill two holes out of the bottom and seal around them and splice into that wire or what? cuz i have wanted to do this forever and almost have myself talked into it, but i dont want to have a shitty connection and blow my sub

x2jesse1x

iTrader: (4)

You could just drill out of the box and seal it with silicone but the proper way would be to use a terminal that mounts on the box.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

pretty sweet.. a buddy of mine has an Fi Q 12 in his 05 gto.. i was thinking of using some Fi Qs in my car, but i might do some 13W6v2s instead

italicizedsponge

iTrader: (3)

if you're gonna do that just go 13w7

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

they cost twice as much, and have less sound quality.. i figure with two drivers ill make up for the SPL id have with a w7

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

Some progress ..




Bondo'd the screw's




Terminals





sanded





Siliconed inside




Ports / 2nd baffle installed

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

Wow, it sure is hard to cut a straight line with a skill saw.
It looks like a great job. I would probably add 3/4" to the ports since your using a double walled face.
Ive used those aero ports before and they are nice. I got the ones without the screw holes.

fredmr39

looking good.

Just curious - how did you go about calculating the length of port you needed for two ports? ...didn't just divide what one port should be by 2, correct?

Only thing I don't like are the terminals... I would have hid them a little better by placing them lower, or on the back of the box....unless you have some plans to fill the whole rear area and hide them.

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

I used the port calculator on aero ports site .

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

Heres the rest of the system ..
















Primed the box and then painted it with some textured paint . It filled in alot of the gaps , kind of bright but owell , then stuffed it in the trunk .





No pics of the build of the amp rack , basically my old workbench with 1/2'' strips all around the bottom edges air nailed in . Slot holes is where the wiring will slip in , be hidden . Amps are going to get raised for air to circulate underneath .

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

awesome work man, looks great!

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

Thats shift **** has taken a beating!

Nice work on that box! I tried making a ported box for my brother's truck...needless to say we ended up having one made.

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

More pictures of the completed enclosure , 16.25'' sub mounting depth .









Working on wiring the amplifiers , all new wire to every speaker . Stock is still in car just incase I decide to sell the car later on .



Simple to build , it will be bolted down using pre-existing holes [cargo straps ].

rocksws6

iTrader: (4)

What kind of install kit did you use on the head unit? That looks real nice.

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

It's from Humount , real nice piece .