NJNETSFAN

iTrader: (15)

Here's the Deal. The Car is a 99 Camaro z28 with monsoon system. I just went out and bought a Kenwood KDC-MP238 HU for it from crutchfield. They included the GM adapter for free so I'm in the middle of wiring it up right now. I have one question though. On the kenwood wiring harness I have a Blue/white wire that says its a power control/ motor antenna control wire, then I have a brown wire that says its a mute wire, and last, I have a solid blue wire that says it's an ant. control. Which wire do I use to power up the monsoon amp? The Gm adapter shows Blue to be the power antenna/ amp. turn-on so I'm guessing it's the solid blue wire on the Kenwood wiring harness. I just want to make sure before I wire it wrong.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You don't need a remote turn-on wire with the Monsoon amp. It has a signal-sensing circuit that turns the amp on whenever it receives audio signal on the input side. The mute wire is for use with external accessories like bluetooth phones (to mute the system when the phone is in use). The blue with white wire would be used as remote turn-on if you had an aftermarket amp and the solid blue wire triggers the power antenna if you get one.

NJNETSFAN

iTrader: (15)

Thanks, I was able to dig up an old thread late last night. It seems that I should wire the blue/white wire so that its already done if I ever do decide to put a power antenna in .

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That depends...the blue with white wire will be live whenever the head unit is on (regardless of music source). Depending on the head unit model, the solid blue wire will only have power when the radio is on but not when playing CDs or other sources. If you want a future power antenna to only go up when using the radio then you should set up the solid blue wire for it. If you want the power antenna to go and stay up whenever the head unit is on then set up the blue with white wire.

fredmr39

I would avoid the floating wires and just forget about it for now until you need it. It takes all of what - 20 seconds to pull the HU on our cars?

NJNETSFAN

iTrader: (15)

yea, it is very easy. I went ahead and wired everything up including the blue wire. Everythings working good. The whole system seems like it has less thump. I can swear the side panels turned into full range speakers with the new HU. I replaced the sail panels with some alpines the other day and left the tweeters in the loop and they had no problem with the monsoon HU. Has anyone ever noticed their speakers get like this after a switch. I've played with all the EQ settings on the new HU and I just can't seem to match the monsoon HU with whatever I do. There seems to be only one solution....stealth box here I come. lol

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The difference is that the factory sail panel speakers are true subs whereas your coaxials are more of a mid/midbass. So the dynamic range of the speaker is greater and it sounds similar to full range sound. Most vocals and instruments fall in the range of a mid/midbass so you're only missing true lows and highs.

NJNETSFAN

iTrader: (15)

What I was saying in my last post was a little confussing. When I was using the stock HU, the alpines seemed to be acting a lot more like subs than the kenwood I'm using. So I'm comparing the same speakers, just different HUs'
Stock HU= more bass than Kenwood HU i'm using now. I'm thinking it has to do with the EQ settings, it just takes more time to set up the new EQ to my taste I guess. I'm probably gonna order a stealth box from kee audio and call it done. The previous owner of the car had infinities( from 2005ish) running in the doors and sails. So i'm using the infinities in the doors and alpines in the sails. Do you think I would be better putting the Alpines in the door and putting real 6.5 woofers in the sail panels?