Help! I need a 12V Ignition Wire!
09-25-2008, 03:09 PM
#1
Help! I need a 12V Ignition Wire! Hey guys,
I have wires EVERYWHERE in my car right now. I'm installing two autometer gauges. I'm having some trouble finding 12v ignition wire I can get power from. Are these really thick wires? Or thin? I don't really know where to look, I have the panel underneath my steering wheel off. Is it that block on the left that has a gajillion wires? I need some help if anyone could. Even if theres another wire somewhere I can easily find that'd be great.
Thank you everyone
I have wires EVERYWHERE in my car right now. I'm installing two autometer gauges. I'm having some trouble finding 12v ignition wire I can get power from. Are these really thick wires? Or thin? I don't really know where to look, I have the panel underneath my steering wheel off. Is it that block on the left that has a gajillion wires? I need some help if anyone could. Even if theres another wire somewhere I can easily find that'd be great.
Thank you everyone
09-25-2008, 03:12 PM
#2
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Im not sure you want the actual ignition wire but maybe just a 12v thats hot when the key is on? Anyway, I think there is a wiring diagram write-up/sticky here somewhere.
09-25-2008, 04:04 PM
#4
On the front of the dash fuse panel there is a single port (like half of a fuse socket) labeled IGN that is designed for adding electrical accessories. You can plug into it with a standard spade (flat) connector and it will provide power when the ignition is on.
09-26-2008, 07:07 AM
#7
The IGN port provides power when the ignition is on, the BATT port provides battery (constant) power, and the ACCY port provides power when the ignition is on and after it's shut off until you open a door (like the radio).
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09-30-2008, 01:31 PM
#9
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Sorry...no. That's the ghetto way. Among the fuses in the fuse panel you will find three single ports (half of a fuse port) that are labeled IGN, BATT, and ACCY. Just crimp or solder a spade (flat) connector on the end of your wire and plug it into the appropriate port - no cutting or splicing necessary and much cleaner and safer than wrapping a wire around a fuse.
The IGN port provides power when the ignition is on, the BATT port provides battery (constant) power, and the ACCY port provides power when the ignition is on and after it's shut off until you open a door (like the radio).
The IGN port provides power when the ignition is on, the BATT port provides battery (constant) power, and the ACCY port provides power when the ignition is on and after it's shut off until you open a door (like the radio).
09-30-2008, 02:00 PM
#10
I have to stand by my comment...yes, it's the ghetto way. Duct tape works for fixing body panels but I wouldn't do that either.
...and that's a recommendation? The big box stores are infamous for shoddy workmanship, hiring the cheapest inexperienced labor, and doing things the quick and dirty way. You won't see an experienced installer simply stuffing a wire into a fuse slot wrapped around the leg of a fuse. Most experienced installers won't even use those crimp-on fuse taps unless there's no other way.
Never! Any time you have a wire that isn't securely connected, you're risking sparks, blown fuses, possible fire, or at the very least an intermittent connection that is difficult to troubleshoot.
And before you object to the "possible fire" comment - what happens when you connect a small gauge wire to the power leg of a fuse and then have an overload? The fuse won't protect you because your wire is on the wrong side of the fuse. The fusible link won't protect you because it's rated for far more current than your small gauge wire can handle. So the wire burns up and can start a fire.
The accessory ports in the fuse box are fused circuits so you have much better protection against an overlod (although they are 15-amp circuits so adding a smaller inline fuse is still a good idea). Considering that doing it properly takes less than a minute longer than doing it your way, why take the chance?
Never! Any time you have a wire that isn't securely connected, you're risking sparks, blown fuses, possible fire, or at the very least an intermittent connection that is difficult to troubleshoot.
And before you object to the "possible fire" comment - what happens when you connect a small gauge wire to the power leg of a fuse and then have an overload? The fuse won't protect you because your wire is on the wrong side of the fuse. The fusible link won't protect you because it's rated for far more current than your small gauge wire can handle. So the wire burns up and can start a fire.
The accessory ports in the fuse box are fused circuits so you have much better protection against an overlod (although they are 15-amp circuits so adding a smaller inline fuse is still a good idea). Considering that doing it properly takes less than a minute longer than doing it your way, why take the chance?
09-30-2008, 05:51 PM
#11
I have to stand by my comment...yes, it's the ghetto way. Duct tape works for fixing body panels but I wouldn't do that either.
...and that's a recommendation? The big box stores are infamous for shoddy workmanship, hiring the cheapest inexperienced labor, and doing things the quick and dirty way. You won't see an experienced installer simply stuffing a wire into a fuse slot wrapped around the leg of a fuse. Most experienced installers won't even use those crimp-on fuse taps unless there's no other way.
Never! Any time you have a wire that isn't securely connected, you're risking sparks, blown fuses, possible fire, or at the very least an intermittent connection that is difficult to troubleshoot.
And before you object to the "possible fire" comment - what happens when you connect a small gauge wire to the power leg of a fuse and then have an overload? The fuse won't protect you because your wire is on the wrong side of the fuse. The fusible link won't protect you because it's rated for far more current than your small gauge wire can handle. So the wire burns up and can start a fire.
The accessory ports in the fuse box are fused circuits so you have much better protection against an overlod (although they are 15-amp circuits so adding a smaller inline fuse is still a good idea). Considering that doing it properly takes less than a minute longer than doing it your way, why take the chance?
...and that's a recommendation? The big box stores are infamous for shoddy workmanship, hiring the cheapest inexperienced labor, and doing things the quick and dirty way. You won't see an experienced installer simply stuffing a wire into a fuse slot wrapped around the leg of a fuse. Most experienced installers won't even use those crimp-on fuse taps unless there's no other way.
Never! Any time you have a wire that isn't securely connected, you're risking sparks, blown fuses, possible fire, or at the very least an intermittent connection that is difficult to troubleshoot.
And before you object to the "possible fire" comment - what happens when you connect a small gauge wire to the power leg of a fuse and then have an overload? The fuse won't protect you because your wire is on the wrong side of the fuse. The fusible link won't protect you because it's rated for far more current than your small gauge wire can handle. So the wire burns up and can start a fire.
The accessory ports in the fuse box are fused circuits so you have much better protection against an overlod (although they are 15-amp circuits so adding a smaller inline fuse is still a good idea). Considering that doing it properly takes less than a minute longer than doing it your way, why take the chance?
I agree....do it the right way and you won't have to worry about it
