mohammed_k81

I want a powerful street car so am really confused from who and what to buy I have about 11 to 14 grand my car is a 2000 camaro its fully ready does not need all the other components e.g. read end clutch tires I have them ready.

I will only be using the car on the weekend for my joy and I don’t want to be racing from a dig so am not looking for quarter mile times just something that can take on the C6Zo6 vipers Supra fast cars on the highways.

So I think anything over 550+ Rwhp would be good right

Should I buy a built engine?
My old engine was a 408 I bought it for a cheap price it never really run well kind of broke down I never really enjoyed that engine at all just wasted money on it

mikey

iTrader: (6)

See my sig. Take your pick Your goals are no problem. I would recommend our 427 LS7. It's an excellent street engine with a very broad power band. You can see it in action here:

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...ent=brian2.flv

Mikey

Shawn @ VA Speed

iTrader: (3)

We have got a nice 550rwhp 408 for $12500.00,working on a 600 rwhp version right now.No pricing on it yet.Plus we have other combonations.Check out our shop in the sponsor shop tour and project page.

Fasterq

11 or 14....big difference in an N/A engine. For 14K you can have a 600 RWHP streetable, pump gas, daily driver, reliable engine built. With a 2yr/24,000 mile warranty. Just depends on which builder you use. You can also use the new LSX iron block and it'll last for a LONG *** time.

WeberRacingEquipment

iTrader: (4)

The block will not make the difference as much as the assembly, machine work and tuning of the engine will affect an engines longevity. You can assemble an engine with the best parts money can buy, but if it is not properly assembled it will not last 100 miles.

We are celebrating 40 Years of engine building and machining this year and are putting together quite a few LS based motors that meet and exceed the expectations you have expressed.

Shoot me a PM and let me know what kind/size of intake, headers, and fuel system so I can see if we can work with those things you already have. We can also tailor the engine around your current situation within reason to make your combination work for you.

Fasterq

The only reason I mentioned using the LSX iron block is because he said he is NOT a drag racer and is only going to be driving it in straight lines on the highway. The LSX iron block is WAY WAY stronger and WAY WAY more reliable than any of the aluminum blocks with sleeves. AND cheaper. So why not use it.

I think it's implied that he will have a good shop build his engine and tune it properly. But I guess you never know, some guys try to do machining in their back yards with power drills. This is why I said, "it depends on the builder."

All else being equal....using the LSX iron block will produce an all around BETTER and MORE reliable, longer lasting, much stronger, better running engine throughout its life...then using a sleeved aluminum block.

Weber:
Do you offer a 2yr/24,000 mile FULL parts and labor warranty on your LSx engine builds, if you also do the tuning? This is what shows the quality of an engine builder. Anything less then that warranty, which is industry standard if the engine is built and tuned by the builder, wouldn't be building my engine.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Not sure where your getting this info from, but it's hardly true. An engine isn't going to "run better" just cause it's iron. It's not going to "last longer" cause it's iron. It's only going to be stronger if you press it pass the limits of the aluminum block, which is not the case in this situation, and I can hardly see how you could make it "More reliable or all around better" just because it's iron. Sleeved blocks can handle just about whatever you can throw at them if done by the correct person. It's the people who carry their blocks to jake leg machinists who don't know how, nor have the correct equipment to sleeve a block, that make them seem less reliable.

1970judge

iTrader: (12)

Give me a call, or shoot me a PM.

WeberRacingEquipment

iTrader: (4)

The LSX block is overkill for something in this power range. A LS1,LS2,L92,LS7, or Iron LQ9 being used in the 550 RWHP range will not have any kind of structural issues. The LSX block was introduced as a solution for high horsepower applications. Not a replacement for application that have been proven to work without problems before its introduction.

We do not offer any warranty written or implied on our engines due to the nature of their use. There are too many variables on a high performance engine that is out of our hands to be able to offer a warranty.

Can we keep this on topic for the original poster who is looking for an engine ?

Fasterq

I'm sure you've heard of "dropped sleeves". Why risk that happeneing when for a LOWER price you can have an animal of a block like the LSX iron block?

Iron will last longer, period?

My exact words were, "better running engine throughout its life". Which is true due to problems that arise from sleeves like rounding and wear causing OIL BURN. An iron block will reisist this 100 times better throughout its LIFETIME. How many 100,000 mile super strokers are out there. I know of many iron blocks ell over 100,000 and they're still fine.

Mess up a sleeve due to some kind of failure and.....throw the entire block in the garbage. Iron block, rehone and put it back together...again, iron, BETTER all around.

The iron LSX is better for anyone except a very serious road racer or drag racer due to the weight savings. A street car that someone wants to have for a LONG time without any of the issues associated with an aluminum block....the iron block is the best choice...and AGAIN...it's CHEAPER than the sleeved aluminum block.

I can't believe anyone here would recommend to someone to go with a weaker, sleeved aluminum block that can have issues....when weight IS NOT A CONCERN....and once again the iron block is CHEAPER.......rather than use the LSX iron block.

I think that covers all your points.

Fasterq

It is on topic. When someone comes here for help and says, "I want a powerful street car so am really confused from who and what to buy...

He will get recommendations and opinions like he asked for. Not just someone or a shop saying...call me I'll sell you something.

Thats what this forum is for. Maybe he'd like a less expensive superior iron block over a more expensive aluminum block for his needs. Or maybe he wants to pay more money for a weaker, more problem prone block like aluminum, who knows, he'll make the call. He is on a budget, it would be nice to spend less and have a BETTER all around platform to work with.

With all due repsect to your 40 years

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Hmmmmmm...you remind me a lot of Quickin on here.

I'll be the first to tell you we are ALL glad to have your infinite wisdom on this board...as a matter of fact, I'm gonna go pull the aluminum block out of my car right now. It might get bored (no pun intended) and drop a sleeve. Since that is something you see every single day with aluminum blocks.

Fasterq

Just don't see the reason to buy aluminum when the iron block is cheaper and better.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Weight. Even in a street car...

mikey

iTrader: (6)

My aluminum re-sleeved block done by RED has made tons on 9 second passes and hasn't skipped a beat. I build more re-sleeved engines than I can count and have never had an issue. Many of these are dedicated track cars that see more abuse than any normal street engine.

WeberRacingEquipment

iTrader: (4)

Good point Mikey,

We do alot of Allan Johnson motors (that is what we have in our dragster) As well as Shelby blocks. These are all aluminum with dry sleeves. All of the Top Alchohol Dragster and Fuel motors we build .... aluminum w/sleeves.

Also one of the advantages to a sleeve is that if you hurt a single sleeve, that one sleeve can be replaced without affecting the rest of the engine.
On an iron block you would have to bore and hone every cylinder to match and have to get a whole new set of pistons.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I'm in the same boat. I've been looking at a bunch of setups and all of them have their pro's and cons.

Sleeved ls2's are more money than a ls7 or lsx block and there is a possibility of it having an issue, how ever very slight it might be, it does happen once in a great while.

The ls7 block is good but does have a sleeve crack issue due to detonation in certain FI applications.

The LSX block isnt all that. The design of it isnt the greatest to begin with. (this from a well respected builder) Also the quality issue was real even though none of the bad blocks made it out to the public, there were over 100 of them.. hence the delay while they take them in house and fight the legal issues

Warhawk is not without issue, its being addressed and taken care of

Parts just dont fit together because they say lsx on them.

Like mentioned all the best parts dont mean squat if they arent assembled correctly.

Take the time to research all the issues with each setup you think about using.

Set a power goal and decide if you want stay n/a or are you going with a power adder to achieve that goal.

bore = hp stroke = torque

ls1leadfoot

iTrader: (1)

these guys know their stuff......dont let tsp go with out a call or something....they have tons of options

Fasterq

Also, almost all the sponsors give a warranty...some are 2yr/24,000 mile if they do the install and tune.

You would be insane to use any builder who doesn't offer this, or something. It directly tells you something about the quality of their work, or at least tells you something about their own confidence.

Oh well...good luck with your choice.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Right...you'd be insane, as a builder, to offer such a warranty given the intended use of the engine. It just doesn't make good business sense...