Need help oil pan options
#3
What is a "stock" pan? There are about a half dozen "stock" pans from vehicles that have a 6.0 'stock" from the factory. Also depending which frame stands and engine mounts you are using play a huge role in which "stock" or aftermarket pan will work. And then there is will it work? "Yes" it will work, will you have ground clearance "No"
#4
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There are others, but probably you want a pan like this (hopefully someone will chime in with with GM part number):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221199464304...84.m1555.l2649
Its the pan off of a 5.3 in a Hummer H3. GM sells it as a kit for engine swaps. Comes with dipstick and tube, windage tray, hardware, gaskets, and everything. Mucho improved ground clearance over the truck pans.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221199464304...84.m1555.l2649
Its the pan off of a 5.3 in a Hummer H3. GM sells it as a kit for engine swaps. Comes with dipstick and tube, windage tray, hardware, gaskets, and everything. Mucho improved ground clearance over the truck pans.
#6
oil pan is original off of engine 2004 6.0 2500 pickup. can't remember mount adapter brand but they are the ones that bolt stock clam shell upper mounts to and sets engine in same loction as small block.
going to set short block in monday hopefuly.
as looking at this oil pan if stock doesn't work
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19212593
going to set short block in monday hopefuly.
as looking at this oil pan if stock doesn't work
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19212593
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#8
There's an oil pan "sticky" thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-oil-pans.html
This link has some detailed "opinions" listed as well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...body-swap.html
I'm using a Street&Performance modified f-body pan. Only complaint is capacity is 4.5qts.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/16661747-post29.html
GM Muscle Car pan(referenced in an earlier post) part #19212593. I started with this pan but swapped it later to the S&P pan. It's too deep for most muscle cars, it hung 1.5"-2" below the crossmember. And I had steering issues with it. It will get the engine in your car but is not a good long term option. Know a good welder? Modify your own pan.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-oil-pans.html
This link has some detailed "opinions" listed as well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...body-swap.html
I'm using a Street&Performance modified f-body pan. Only complaint is capacity is 4.5qts.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/16661747-post29.html
GM Muscle Car pan(referenced in an earlier post) part #19212593. I started with this pan but swapped it later to the S&P pan. It's too deep for most muscle cars, it hung 1.5"-2" below the crossmember. And I had steering issues with it. It will get the engine in your car but is not a good long term option. Know a good welder? Modify your own pan.
Last edited by fox12303; 03-23-2013 at 04:11 PM.
#9
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Is there a rack in the car or stock steering. F body pan fits but will hit the rack. H3 pan will also work but hangs low. The holley pan works well. For me fit the best. The jegs pan that is listed as a gm performance ls swap pan is a h3 hummer pan. I have all these pans in stock and ready to ship if you need one. I also found that the energy suspension tall motor mounts work better then the short. I have tried them all. Hope this helps.
#10
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Some of you have heard, I had to pull my engine and trans out to replace my CTS-V pan, which hung about 1" below the cross member cause I bottomed out and cracked the pan. I have always have to be careful going over speed bumps. I put a notched F-Body pan on now. I no longer have speed bump issues.
After all the time spent pulling, replacing the pan, cleaning the classis of Syn Oil...and the pulling it all back together.... I can say, get a pan the do not hang below the cross member.. it just is not worth it and time spent to replace, clean and fix everything, let alone the tow home.
Just spend the money for a pan..
BC
After all the time spent pulling, replacing the pan, cleaning the classis of Syn Oil...and the pulling it all back together.... I can say, get a pan the do not hang below the cross member.. it just is not worth it and time spent to replace, clean and fix everything, let alone the tow home.
Just spend the money for a pan..
BC
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I hear you. I pulled mine 3 times this week just to mock the motor up and to make sure the pan doesnt hang below the crossmember. Just like bczee said you dont want to crack the pan or cause any motor damage.
#12
Has anybody else used the Street&Performance modified F-body oil pan? It's a really nice pan but a little pricey unless you already have one as they have a swap program. www.hotrodlane.cc is there website.
BC, did you modify the F-body pan yourself? If not, whose did you buy?
BC, did you modify the F-body pan yourself? If not, whose did you buy?
#13
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Yeah, I agree that it is a forty route to take, but in the long run, it could be worth it.
Yes, I cut it up and had a friend weld it up. I had the original f-body pan that came with the engine.
I didn't cut out as much as S&P does, but just enough to clear the cross member so I would only loose about half qt.
BC
Yes, I cut it up and had a friend weld it up. I had the original f-body pan that came with the engine.
I didn't cut out as much as S&P does, but just enough to clear the cross member so I would only loose about half qt.
BC
#14
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I have a second gen as well and used a corvette batwing in mine. No worries about it hanging below the crossmember. It also holds 6.5 quarts of oil. Yellow arrow indicates a second drain plug I installed, because the original (red) would spill onto the frame.
Last edited by 1981TA; 03-25-2013 at 12:17 AM.
#15
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Comparing a CTS-V to a Notched F-Body, (but the depth would be the same without the notch).
How much the CTS-V pan would hang below. Doesn't seem like much. But it has cause me spped bump and pot hole issue for many years (glad I switched now)
by only cutting back about an 1" at the front peak and then back to the sides of the pan at that angle, I was able to use an un-modified pick up tube. The pictures has the pan as I mocked it up with the panels and tape to check before I had it welded up.
BC
How much the CTS-V pan would hang below. Doesn't seem like much. But it has cause me spped bump and pot hole issue for many years (glad I switched now)
by only cutting back about an 1" at the front peak and then back to the sides of the pan at that angle, I was able to use an un-modified pick up tube. The pictures has the pan as I mocked it up with the panels and tape to check before I had it welded up.
BC
#16
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Fwiw, the batwing drops right into a 2nd gen f-body, with the trans in the stock position, and no frame or pan mods. My engine mounts are welded in, but I believe 1" setback mounts for LSx with position the engine similarly. The pic above is with my engine connexted to the factor th350. Seriously, it's a simple drop in.