Ran a 7.414 in the 1/8. Hope to take it to a 1/4 track soon
#3
1998 A4. It was a Virgin stock when I got it. I put a Texas speed 228R112 cam. 3200 stall long tubes. Trans cooler. And a 125 wet kit. Changed out the 323 gears for 373. And that was it for that pass. (On DOT slicks). It had stopped error lead stop fuel pump and a copycat tune. I have HP Tuners. And a wide band on it now data -logging A Walbor 340 pump and some suspension parts. Can't wait to take it to the 1/4 track
#4
10 Second Club
You're pulling a decent 1/8 with a poop 60' like me. That's good mph. Your car should backhalf more in the 11.6 range unless something in the setup ***** the bed
#7
Any plans for a looser converter? If you can get that sixty down the car should pick up a lot.
__________________
Aaron @ Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
Email:Aaron387@sdparts.com
Phone: 1-800-456-0211 Ext: 324
Aaron @ Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
Email:Aaron387@sdparts.com
Phone: 1-800-456-0211 Ext: 324
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#9
The suspension should no doubt help. Keep us updated with the results.
__________________
Aaron @ Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
Email:Aaron387@sdparts.com
Phone: 1-800-456-0211 Ext: 324
Aaron @ Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
Email:Aaron387@sdparts.com
Phone: 1-800-456-0211 Ext: 324
#11
Thanks Aaron I will. ðŸ‘
Mad Mike. I use to run try-street in a mustang and built street/strip cars for others. My suspension kit for them would take a 13 sec car (on slicks not spinning) with a 1.75 60 foot. (3300lb car) make it run a 12 sec pas with a mid 1.4 60
That car ran 10.80s on motor and 9.60s on a 175 wet kit. 347 10 and 1/2 to 1 comp
Mad Mike. I use to run try-street in a mustang and built street/strip cars for others. My suspension kit for them would take a 13 sec car (on slicks not spinning) with a 1.75 60 foot. (3300lb car) make it run a 12 sec pas with a mid 1.4 60
That car ran 10.80s on motor and 9.60s on a 175 wet kit. 347 10 and 1/2 to 1 comp
#12
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (29)
Thanks Aaron I will. ðŸ‘
Mad Mike. I use to run try-street in a mustang and built street/strip cars for others. My suspension kit for them would take a 13 sec car (on slicks not spinning) with a 1.75 60 foot. (3300lb car) make it run a 12 sec pas with a mid 1.4 60 Attachment 550682
That car ran 10.80s on motor and 9.60s on a 175 wet kit. 347 10 and 1/2 to 1 comp
Mad Mike. I use to run try-street in a mustang and built street/strip cars for others. My suspension kit for them would take a 13 sec car (on slicks not spinning) with a 1.75 60 foot. (3300lb car) make it run a 12 sec pas with a mid 1.4 60 Attachment 550682
That car ran 10.80s on motor and 9.60s on a 175 wet kit. 347 10 and 1/2 to 1 comp
#15
I agreed if it wasn't spinning before the suspension will be but not going to be huge. I'm still running stock suspension with front sway bar removed and a adjustable panhard bar from MWC. Other than that it's got stock lca's, no subframe connectors, and everything else is stock. I still need to throw that stuff on. I also run an FTI 4400 Hard Hit converter and daily drive the car, it's like it's not even there until I lay into it. Haha
#16
Yes the suspension does 2 main things.
1. Transfers the weight/power. It does this by the struts being 90/10. The struts don't hold against the front end coming up and the rear springs (changed to less of a load rate) let it come down the engine mount and trans mount. (Solid or poly) eliminate flex (flex takes time from your ET). Subframe connectors keep the body from flexing ( subframe connectors are usually good for 2-tenths in the 1/4) Torque arm that don't flex. Lower arms that don't flex pan hard that don't flex
2. The car won't unload going down the track so you are not pushing the nose weight. ( relocation brackets and 90/10 struts aid in this). So does setting the pinyon angle Al the weight stays on the back tires.
4400. Cool. Sound like you have a nice set up. You will love your suspension.
1. Transfers the weight/power. It does this by the struts being 90/10. The struts don't hold against the front end coming up and the rear springs (changed to less of a load rate) let it come down the engine mount and trans mount. (Solid or poly) eliminate flex (flex takes time from your ET). Subframe connectors keep the body from flexing ( subframe connectors are usually good for 2-tenths in the 1/4) Torque arm that don't flex. Lower arms that don't flex pan hard that don't flex
2. The car won't unload going down the track so you are not pushing the nose weight. ( relocation brackets and 90/10 struts aid in this). So does setting the pinyon angle Al the weight stays on the back tires.
4400. Cool. Sound like you have a nice set up. You will love your suspension.
#17
I know what suspension does but what we are getting at is if the car is already hooking well then it's not going to help much. And I cut 1.50 60 foot all day on the stock suspension with the 4400...
#18
For example subframe connectors don't help you hook it takes movement out of the body and gives you 2-tenths in the 1/4 that's just 1 part slicks make you hook if your slicks are not hooking you need to play with the air pressure or get the right slicks suspension is the geometry that puts the power at the crank to the wheel on the track
#19
There's no way you're going to hit 1.5 60's just from adding subframe connectors. At your power level, you'd be lucky to see any improvement unless you start stripping weight off the car. And even then, your 3200 stall is only going to get you so far.
After having a ST3500(2.7 STR) for 12 years, I'm finally moving to a 4000 because I want better 60's. I've got subframes and all CM suspension and my best 60 ever was a 1.59 @ 3520# Raceweight. Went to a SS4000 and hoping for low 1.5 60's @ 3470# RW.
After having a ST3500(2.7 STR) for 12 years, I'm finally moving to a 4000 because I want better 60's. I've got subframes and all CM suspension and my best 60 ever was a 1.59 @ 3520# Raceweight. Went to a SS4000 and hoping for low 1.5 60's @ 3470# RW.
Last edited by Rick01SS; 09-22-2016 at 11:31 AM.