Looking forward to the email (not received yet). What bezel are you using with the electronic speedo?

 

I used a Covan's Classic 69-74 Nova black dash and Autometer Ultra-Lite gauges. It's $250 without gauges, which is a little spendy considering it's just a flimsy piece of plastic. But there are few options other than custom-making a dash insert.

 

Thanks for the spreadsheet. Why did you use the ford remote solenoid? Were your headers too close to the starter?

Man, I am going to drive you nuts with questions

 

Is this braided line you buy in bulk and hose clamp on the -6an hose ends? Or are they made to length lines? I see on your diagram all the parts listed exept the last two pieces that go up to the fuel rail. What are those, and where did you get them?

Just trying to get all the parts at once

thanks again

 

No worries, i'm pretty sure brendan at lt1swap hates me for all the questions i asked him

I used the ford solenoid to reduce the chance of heat soak to the starter, but mainly for an easily-accessible battery hot lead. My battery's in the back, so this makes it easier to tap for power.

For fuel line, I bought bulk 25' of aluminium hard line and bulk 6AN braided line. You don't hose clamp on the ends; rather you slide one end on and screw the other to "clamp" it to the hose. it's fairly easy to do, and you can pick up an assembly tool from Koul Tools that is said to help immensely. Keep in mind that this was a complete AN setup, so it's not exactly budget-friendly (I spent something like $300 on the fuel system). The FAQ has info on dorman fittings that allow you to run either hard or soft line (much cheaper).

The piece that goes to the fuel rail - the pink/blue thing - is one piece, Russell 640853. It is a 6AN to GM EFI hard line adapter.

NOTE: Below is PN 640850, blue. The 853 is black.

 

i HONESTLY DON'T SEE WHY PEOPLE LIKE THE TYPICAL BLUE & RED AN fittings. Sign me up for black.

 

This update has been a looooong time coming. I just got the ladder bar crossmember modified with exhaust cutouts and the 3" Pypes Race Pro exhaust done. Man, it's nice to drive without ear plugs!

You can barely see the tip sticking out behind the rear wheel in the full-car pic. I like how it's mostly tucked under. The fabricator had to remove the diagonal link and install a panhard bar to run the exhaust (luckily I had one for it). I wish I could get rid of some of those clamps, but I wouldn't be able to remove the system if I had it fully welded. I'll accept some functional ugliness.

I also had some fun and scared the neighbors a bit. Got a 'talking to' for that one (and thus the reason I cut it short, so as not to hit the Nissan).

Couple notes - the valvetrain is NOISY. I had .020" milled off the heads, and *thought* I measured the pushrod length correctly. They're .025" short (7.375" vs. 7.400"), but I have a feeling I'm going to have to recheck my setup, considering I'm pretty sure the cam base circle is smaller than stock (.645"/.615" lift). I need to get it retuned on a dyno after that, and have it registered. I'm a happy camper for the most part though!

First, the exhaust and x-member:
X-member before:


After:








Exhaust clip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jWy8EI6R2o

Little fun:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sypT1SrzQoI

 

I finally got her tuned! Nic D did a phenomenal job dialing her in. Prior to the tune, she would lay over, barely idle, and was generally terrible to drive.

Final numbers were 414/373 at the wheels. I was actually surprised there wasn't more of a dip down low - I know many have seen such phenomenon with the G6X3 cam. Best of all - this thing is an absolute blast to drive, and simply comes alive over 3ooo rpm.

One thing we found out - the LS3 MAP sensor does not work with the LQ4 PCM/OS (here's some light reading on the subject). I guess the range is slightly different, so it has a momentary lean condition when you snap it into WOT (think accel pump too small). I'm going to get the LQ4 MAP sensor and connector, and figure out a way to mount it in the LS3 intake. Also, there was an issue with the PRNDL switch output, so the PCM didn't know when the car was in reverse or drive. I believe some of the wires I couldn't identify in my Nova LQx Build Notes file may have something to do with it. Though not a huge issue, it does not compensate for the load when in drive or reverse, and takes a second for the computer to 'relearn' and compensate. Finally, I had changed my knock sensor harness (and valley cover to the LS6 style for the better PCV setup while I had the intake off) due to it throwing codes that knock sensors 1 and 2 weren't responding properly, but it still came up. Nic confirmed that they were functioning properly, so he disabled the codes. It still pulls timing when it senses excessive knock, but I'll never get a code. Anyway, enough talking - onto the good stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6svvF...er_profilepage

 

Awesome! Neverming the WOT performance - what are your impressions of throttle response, idle, off-idle, and cruise performance? How does it do under load at part throttle like on a hill? Does it run well before getting to temp?

 

I drove it into work this morning. It was probably in the high 40s. It fired right up and I took off without warming it up. There was no noticeable stumble, aside from that MAP sensor issue. Throttle response is good for a 3600 stall. It is a tad soft down low, but wakes right up when you get out of cruise rpm. I'll report back when I address the MAP issue.

UPDATE: Soldered in the new (old) MAP sensor connector and fit an LS1/2 MAP in place of the LS3. It's kind of ghetto, but it works. It definitely made it noticeably better off-idle, though I have gotten it to pop once or twice from cruise.

 

Nic is the man. Congratulations get it finished ,I know you'll enjoy driving it.

FYI I'm at 430 rwhp 390 rwtq still need to dial in the suspension,it's currently running low 11's. Let me know when your heading to the track.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4092/...8a2ab312_b.jpg

 

What gas pedal did you use. I am in the process of swapping an LQ4 into my 69 Camaro. I was told to use a 6 cyl. pedal since it was cable rather than the linkage of the SBC. They want like $70 for the stocker or I could pony up and buy a Lokar. I could modify my existing pedal and make it work with a cable but just thought I would ask you since you have been down this road already. And hats off to ya for such a nice build. Are you glad you spent the money for the swap? I am at the $7700 marker and havent seen and engine in my engine bay yet. Thanks

 

I used the original Nova gas pedal with a Lokar 48" LS1 cable. The Nova's was an original cable pedal though. I'm guessing any cable pedal that fits would work for your setup.

I think I touched $11k on my build, though I identified over $1k worth of items that weren't needed (seriously), due to either me screwing something up, selling parts I later needed, or losing parts (and $300 for a sh!tty initial tune). You save tons keeping the engine/trans together, rather than doing a complete rebuild. Trust me, I'd do it again in a heartbeat. The driveability is night-and-day, and the gas mileage is light-years better than the old 350/350 combo.

 

I second the comment of doing it all over. I wish mine was running so I could have some stock in that but the build so far has been a pleasure. An expensive pleasure but still fun. I went to a local salvage yard that carries older vehicles (5 minutes from my house lucky me) and picked up a 6cyl. gas pedal from a 69 Nova. $20 later I am good to go. I sandblasted it at work today and now time for a little added strength. I appreciate the help and love that car. The old Nova sounds great and prolly is fun to drive. Keep the thread going as you make changes big or small. You never know what might help someone out in the future.

 

This is really old (sorry!), but I am experiencing the same thing. Would you mind sharing what eventually solved the pig rich/no idle problem?

 

It was a terrible tune. They didn't set the injector size to 42 lbs., and it was actually throwing a TON of codes that my obd scanner didn't pick up (no idea why). Nic D (2nd tuner) said he was surprised it was even driveable. The LS3 MAP sensor was also incompatible with the LQ4 PCM. I got lucky that there were no major gremlins, electrical or other, that I had to fight.

 

im doing the same swap in my 72 and was wondering if you could run ac bracket from truck accesory with out running into adapter plates?

 

Yes... With a little modification to the front subframe. Im not privy to what exactly needs to be done, but check with clint (-TheBandit-); he's doing the mod for the low-mount AC.

 

Congrats on getting it running and tuned. Looks like you will be enjoying it from here on.

 

Well, I had been mulling it over, but I finally pulled the trigger on a Vintage Air Gen IV Sure Kit for the Nova. She's gotten very little play over the summer, since it's so damn hot here. In fact, I think I've only got like 1000 miles on the swap, which is really sad. I'm tired of parking her for so long when there's no reason to, so I decided the time had come for some creature comfort.

I went through Frank at Prodigy Customs based on the feedback I'd gotten from others who used them while ordering parts. I opted not to buy the Kwik bracket, as it was $150 more. I'm going to use the small-block bracket that comes with the kit as a base for my own design. I'll keep you all posted when I get going on it.

I also added some Procar bucket seats that I picked up from a friend since the last time I updated this thread. They're fairly tall, even though I made my own brackets. But they match the interior very well. Plus I got a pretty good deal for 'em. Adding AC will certainly make the car more fun to drive, which will help break those babies in.