Exactly! Although you *may* be able to run the return to the upper barb (since the hydroboost did so anyway), I'm running the LP to the lower connector just in case.

I'm not exactly sure how much pressure is on the low side. I plan to cap the top barb using a rubber cap and hose clamp. I figure since it's a barb fitting, it can't be too much pressure. We'll see if this works.

 

I forget what brakes you have? Why not use the hydroboost?

 

i want to go hydroboost. i just redid my brakes a few months before i started the swap, so i didn't want to (spend the coin to) go hydro quite yet. i know frojoe is doing it, so i'll copy him when i decide to do it.

another quick update... fuel system is done, just need to retest it, and i filled her full of fluids. next on the list is to prime the oil system and fire her off. i'll be sure to get a video of that. i was hoping to do it today, but it looks like friday it is.

i like the aluminium cell much more than that stupid plastic thing i had before. only problem was it has 8AN return/vent fittings, so I had to use an adapter on the return line (i had an 8AN 90° fitting that i coaxed a 6AN line onto for the vent). if anyone knows if any vendors make an 8-6AN 90° adapter i'd appreciate it (doubtful).

i also need to f with the front suspension to get caster/camber/ride height/etc.

 

I got her fired up Friday. Still need to do some tuning, so I’m mulling buying some software. I forgot to set the tach to 4 cyl operation, so I couldn’t get an accurate rpm reading. Also, I had some surging problems, and it would stall if I didn’t keep my foot on the pedal.

Oh, and I almost fried the damn thing, as it wasn’t getting any coolant initially. I poured some coolant directly into the engine via the water pump and she stayed at about 200 degrees for a few minutes. The fan didn’t kick on, so I kicked her off after it started creeping up in temp.

 

Lookin good. Do you have a bad ground or something? Starter sounds funny when cranking.

 

did you change the position of the alternator?? Is it the stock lq4 accessories minus the air conditioning compressor?? Do you know what kind of power you are making yet?

 

Nice car like the color

 

don't think i have a bad ground... starter may be going out, but it cranks over well, so i'm not concerned. alternator and ps pump are in the same position, i just had to buy an idler reloc. bracket to fit the ls3 intake with the truck accessories. i also had to notch the alt/ps bracket to fit the TB, run an L92 water pump, and space the TB 1" to get everything to fit (see here for a write-up of a car intake with truck accessories). and no, i'm not running a/c or heat right now.

power should be around 550 hp at the flywheel.

i've got her on jackstands right now to test everything out. unfortunately, i have no reverse/neutral, which tells me to get out of the trans business (i tried to rebuild the damn thing). i'm looking at FLT for a beefed-up trans - they've been helping me troubleshoot, plus they've got great prices and are pretty active on the forum. regardless, the trans will come out next week (since i'll be done with finals). there goes another couple grand - F!$#

i have temporarily hung the exhaust - i got a 3" stainless x-pipe kit from pypes, with their race pro mufflers. one problem - my front x-member for the ladder bar suspension is conveniently right in the way where i wanna run the pipes. So i've got two options: (a) dump the exhaust just before the x-member, (b) go under the x-member, or (c) get new suspension. C ain't happenin til i beef up my rear end (when i'll prob go 4-link from art morrison), and i'm not keen on B (don't want the pipes hanging below for all to see). so it looks like A is the plan for now.

once that is all done, i've gotta either find someone to help me tune it, or take it back to the place that originally tuned it. she's running pig rich (and i mean pig rich, to the point where she won't idle without cracking the throttle half-way). funny thing is, she's not throwing any codes, which kind of scares me.

so all in all... i'll eventually get it taken care of, it's just going to take some (read: a lot) of time.

here's the x-member in relation to the trans: 22" from the rear of my safety loop - not much room

 

Nice build! I am in Surprise, AZ and have done a LS1 swap in my 1968 Firebird. Let me know if you need any help.

 

Tuner,Heard good things about Nic D one of the best in AZ.He's on AZDGforums If you need more info send pm.

 

damn this thread's been dormant for a while. school and scout projects have gotten in the way. I got her loaded onto a trailer to take back to AZTPI to have them retune it. I ended up running straight pipes to the mufflers then dumping them before that x-member. i had the same setup w/ my flowmaster 40s with the 350. i will go full exhaust when i grenade the rear and step up w/ new rear suspension. anyway, it's just bolted up right now, i haven't welded it together yet. it's also semi-aligned (via bubble gauge), but i'm going to take it to be professionally done.

smo - i'll eventually take it to nic d, but i had a free retune from aztpi, so i figured i'd do that first.

pics to come...

 

i drove it home! she's not 100% tuned - the tuner has been out, so it's not completely done yet, but it's drivable! i'm doing the 500 mile break-in and tying up loose ends while i wait. man i missed driving her though - she gets tons of attention. it helps that my exhaust is about 12" of pipe then pypes race pros, so it's stupid loud (and i doubt legal).

question: my speedo barely registers. i'm running an autometer electronic speedo, but the thing said i was doing 10-15 the whole way home (in a 45 mph zone). i hooked it up to connector c100 pin d per lt1swap.com. do i need to calibrate it, or do i need to tap into the vss directly from the trans (which looks like it would be the red connector [c2] pin 21 or 22?

ps - a couple pics on the trailer. man it was a bitch to get onto the trailer. luckily my garage is sloped. it was a chore by myself though.

 

Looks great. I'm jealous! Hopefully I can working on mine again in the next couple weeks. I'm not sure about the speedo and stuff. Maybe someone else can chime in. Have you emailed Brendan at LT1swap?

 

that is awesome!! i am pretty close to firing mine for the first time! need a few more things then it will be road worthy!

 

I finally noticed what you were talking about. I wired in a remote solenoid and connected the 's' terminal on the starter to the 'BAT' on the starter like so (also read the write-up here):

BAD


Apparently the starter is a permanent mag type, so it generates electricity for the few seconds after I turn the key. The solution is to wire it like this:

GOOD


I think I figured out the speedo wiring. It looks like I need to splice the speedo 'SIG' wire into the VSS out. I'll give that a try and update with my results.

I've also compiled a bunch of information that I have used in my build, especially concerning the wiring. It is an excel file, and includes pictures, links, and notes to help anybody trying to do a similar build. It won't upload right now (missing secuirty token?), but feel free to email me at (hookemdevils22@gmail.com) and I can send it out. EDIT: It's too large to toss on here. Just email me, or I'll eventually host it somewhere.

 

Yes must pull speedo signal from the vss at the trans. Are you going to be finished for the car craft LS swap event at speed world on 3-28?

Mine is also almost complete been driving it constantly finishing things up,just pulled the trans for new monster clutch and quick time bell housing.Next is the cut of switch more wiring!!! But man this thing is fun to drive.

 

I'm just waiting on the tune, then I'm sure I'll rip 500+ miles off by the end of the month. Gotta make up for the year-plus she's been down!

 

I have mine wired the first way and have not noticed anything unusual. what difference did it make wiring it the second way?

 

Email sent

What happened to your rocker trim panels?

I take it you are running an aftermarket dash bezel for the electronic speedo?

 

71 chevy... I haven't wired it the second way yet, but I'm pretty sure it should stop my run-on issue. I was going to get to it last night, but had a brake project for the Scout that needed to get done. I should have it later today. I'm just assuming that the second wiring schematic will work, since that's what I came up with doing a quick search. It could be a bad starter, but I'm going to try this first.

bills... Check your email, and let me know if you have any questions or suggestions to improve it. I haven't bolted the trim panels on yet. I need to though, since there's a nasty rust spot on my front passenger fender that the trim covers. Speaking of which [rant]... I dinged my paint pretty good in few places doing the swap and moving all the body pieces around. That, combined with the rust and otherwise messed-up front fender (the car was in an accident prior to me owning it, and they did a terrrrrible job fixing it), means I'm saving to have some paint/body work done in the future.