LQ4 in a 1971 Nova
Looks like your 2" strips aren't perfectly straight, so you will probably need to make a template and cut exactly the right shape, but it should be great when finished. I agree the wheels need a lip and I prefer the second image you posted. I have a feeling in a few years this style of wheel will seem dated. It looks great now and there's a big trend toward the split spoke design, but you could say the same about the "billet" style wheels of the early nineties. I have my eyes on the Year One magnum wheels. I like the classic design. Even though it is dated, it is dated to the period of the car.
Yeah, they aren't very straight, though much better than those on the trunk floor. The limited space made things a bit tricky. I cut out a couple templates using some cardboard, but the resulting metal strips I cut out were not wide enough, so I'll be out tonight cutting fatter ones. That's all I have left from a welding perspective, then it's on to grinding/sanding, sealing, and painting. My plan is to use some Rust-oleum hammer black, since I used Rust-O with positive results in my passenger area.
Two questions though: 1) I couldn't weld right behind the rear seat brace due to space limitations. Think it would be best to cut part of the brace out, weld, then seal, or just try to fill the area with sealer? 2) any suggestions on a good, relatively cheap, seam sealer?
And on the wheels, it's nice to see them making bigger versions of classic wheels. While I like the mag look, it's not what I'm going for in the look of my car. I don't think the mesh style will be outdated any time soon, though I do believe the blacked-out look will. I'm honestly not terribly thrilled about doing black, and would prefer a grey, since I feel it is the best alternative to the standard chrome. Also, I'm not a 5-spoke guy (although the Mustang has TT2's, though only because we got for a great price), and good-looking wheels are tremendously difficult to find, even in the ford bolt pattern.
Two questions though: 1) I couldn't weld right behind the rear seat brace due to space limitations. Think it would be best to cut part of the brace out, weld, then seal, or just try to fill the area with sealer? 2) any suggestions on a good, relatively cheap, seam sealer?
And on the wheels, it's nice to see them making bigger versions of classic wheels. While I like the mag look, it's not what I'm going for in the look of my car. I don't think the mesh style will be outdated any time soon, though I do believe the blacked-out look will. I'm honestly not terribly thrilled about doing black, and would prefer a grey, since I feel it is the best alternative to the standard chrome. Also, I'm not a 5-spoke guy (although the Mustang has TT2's, though only because we got for a great price), and good-looking wheels are tremendously difficult to find, even in the ford bolt pattern.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Sunny Sothern California
Great progress on this difficult task! A lot of work... On the wheels, I totally agree with you on the selection that is out there. I am also limited somewhat by budget. I just can not see spending 4k on wheels/tires when that is how much I spent for an original owner 1964 Nova... On another note, have you considered 18" rallys? Or, there is another company that is making a similar wheel in a two piece configuration that you can special order backspacing (http://www.newstalgiawheel.com/wheel...ubcat3=1011135). They do look a little out of proportion being that they are so large but I guess this depends on taste. Anyway, best of luck on the wheel selection and I'm looking forward to seeing the final product, with wheels...
clint, I say you get the rallyes that misterD linked to - I seriously like those. again, I'm going for more of a pro touring look (though I hesitate to call my car PT with the current suspension setup), so those really don't fit what I'm going for.
so I finished up welding last night, other than filling the holes where I drilled out the spot welds holding the deck lid brackets to the inner wheel housings and the rear seat support, which I cut to better access the tubs. as I said in joe's thread, it was a nightmare trying to get behind the support to weld everything together.
I'm hoping to have it ground, sanded, and painted this week. I plan to do rust-oleum hammertone black inside the trunk and under the wheel wells, and maybe spray on some undercoating underneath, as well.
so I finished up welding last night, other than filling the holes where I drilled out the spot welds holding the deck lid brackets to the inner wheel housings and the rear seat support, which I cut to better access the tubs. as I said in joe's thread, it was a nightmare trying to get behind the support to weld everything together.
I'm hoping to have it ground, sanded, and painted this week. I plan to do rust-oleum hammertone black inside the trunk and under the wheel wells, and maybe spray on some undercoating underneath, as well.
Teaser pic... still waiting on the rears to be widened, so these are the fronts. Plan is NT-05s up front (245/40-18), NT555Rii's out back (305/35-18).
Also, I'm basically finished other than inside the trunk and passenger compartment. Just need to clean and paint.
Also, I'm basically finished other than inside the trunk and passenger compartment. Just need to clean and paint.
This must feel good! I felt pretty good at the end of Sunday being in the same position as you are now. Cracked a beer and sat down after 30+ hours of grinding and sweating and welding and swearing, haha.
Dude... you have no idea. I've heard the DSE tubs cut down the amount of time to do a mini-tub considerably, and never really understood how until now. Cleaning the underside of the wheel wells was an atrocious task. I actually have a pic of me looking like a miner. Plus the added time making and welding in the 2" strips and frame pieces (no templates).
So I ended up with the Tremblants in matte black. 8" front with 40mm offset (6.07" BS). Running a 1" adapter for an effective 5" backspace. I got the front tires mounted yesterday - Nitto NT05 in 245/40-18. I haven't actually turned the wheels or driven anywhere yet, but they appear to fit well. The rears are being widened to 11", and the plan is to run NT555RII's in 305/35-18.
So I ended up with the Tremblants in matte black. 8" front with 40mm offset (6.07" BS). Running a 1" adapter for an effective 5" backspace. I got the front tires mounted yesterday - Nitto NT05 in 245/40-18. I haven't actually turned the wheels or driven anywhere yet, but they appear to fit well. The rears are being widened to 11", and the plan is to run NT555RII's in 305/35-18.
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Small update. I broke my right ankle playing football 2 weeks ago, so I haven't been very busy lately. I'm also still waiting on the rear wheels to be widened (should be toward the end of the month 
). But I finally got around to install and hook up the battery. Everything save interior is done, and boy do the 245s look good on the front.
I took one of the twins for a quick spin around the block yesterday, walking boot and all. After we took them inside they both ran to the window and shouted 'broom broom' while pointing at the Nova, which is quite possibly the greatest thing ever.
I'm also happy to report no rubbing, though the shop I had it aligned at a couple months back set it at 0° camber. Full lock still gives me nearly 1/2" of clearance, though I'm sure I'll rub at some point. Both the front and rear will come down when I bolt on the rears. Maybe then Joe won't think of a stinkbug every time he sees my thread.
Next up is a set of LS1 rear disc brakes I got off a guy here. Then I'll lay low until I come up with funding for the T56 I've been wanting since the first drive after the swap.
The pics definitely don't do the wheels justice. They look great in person.
Also, here's some pics of the wheel wells and trunk. The Rustoleum hammertone black is pretty shiny - I used it for the frame and underside of the wells, though the wells got a few coats of undercoating as well. I'll eventually put carpet in the trunk.
). But I finally got around to install and hook up the battery. Everything save interior is done, and boy do the 245s look good on the front.I took one of the twins for a quick spin around the block yesterday, walking boot and all. After we took them inside they both ran to the window and shouted 'broom broom' while pointing at the Nova, which is quite possibly the greatest thing ever.
I'm also happy to report no rubbing, though the shop I had it aligned at a couple months back set it at 0° camber. Full lock still gives me nearly 1/2" of clearance, though I'm sure I'll rub at some point. Both the front and rear will come down when I bolt on the rears. Maybe then Joe won't think of a stinkbug every time he sees my thread.
Next up is a set of LS1 rear disc brakes I got off a guy here. Then I'll lay low until I come up with funding for the T56 I've been wanting since the first drive after the swap.
The pics definitely don't do the wheels justice. They look great in person.
Also, here's some pics of the wheel wells and trunk. The Rustoleum hammertone black is pretty shiny - I used it for the frame and underside of the wells, though the wells got a few coats of undercoating as well. I'll eventually put carpet in the trunk.
You can always try the Plasti-dip your car, if you don't like it, You just peel if off later.. LOL
https://www.dipyourcar.com/
some samples.
https://www.dipyourcar.com/pages.php?pageid=48
Have some fun !
BC
https://www.dipyourcar.com/
some samples.
https://www.dipyourcar.com/pages.php?pageid=48
Have some fun !
BC
haha, that won't help the likely rust and ill-fitting body panels though. i could get down with the yellow. or maybe gunmetal.
and I was just about to PM you about your rear brake setup, but I reread through your thread and found what I was looking for (BRP spacers and 4th-gen booster/m-cyl). though I'll likely still ping you if I choose to do the 4th-gen booster/MC (the booster looks smaller, hoping it would give more clearance to the valve cover)
and I was just about to PM you about your rear brake setup, but I reread through your thread and found what I was looking for (BRP spacers and 4th-gen booster/m-cyl). though I'll likely still ping you if I choose to do the 4th-gen booster/MC (the booster looks smaller, hoping it would give more clearance to the valve cover)
Last edited by hookemdevils22; Jun 4, 2013 at 05:10 PM.
Christmas came a little early late last week. I got these...
I did have to dust them with some satin black spraypaint, as Weldcraft didn't paint 'em.
Pretty stoked that my new fronts are only 10mm narrower than my old rears.
And I put a 1" spacer from the front onto the rear to check clearance. I'd have kept the spacers at 1", but the outer fender kicks in pretty significantly just above the tire. Since I had the length of a 1/2" drive socket (about 1.5") to the inner fender, I decided to have the spacers milled to .500". I did talk to a guy on PT a while back who had the fender massaged to eliminate that restriction (edit: here's a link to the wheel well - you can see how it goes in rather abruptly), and he said it gained him a good deal of room to run more tire. So I'll consider that when it comes time to do paint and body.
Sadly, this is the only pic I took of a rear tire installed.
This did result in a new problem - the adapters don't work at .500". There's just not enough meat to 'adapt'. So I pulled the trigger and am installing a set 4th-gen f-body brakes on the back and having my axles drilled for a Ford bolt pattern. I'm hoping to have this done by the end of the week, so stay tuned.
I did have to dust them with some satin black spraypaint, as Weldcraft didn't paint 'em.
Pretty stoked that my new fronts are only 10mm narrower than my old rears.
And I put a 1" spacer from the front onto the rear to check clearance. I'd have kept the spacers at 1", but the outer fender kicks in pretty significantly just above the tire. Since I had the length of a 1/2" drive socket (about 1.5") to the inner fender, I decided to have the spacers milled to .500". I did talk to a guy on PT a while back who had the fender massaged to eliminate that restriction (edit: here's a link to the wheel well - you can see how it goes in rather abruptly), and he said it gained him a good deal of room to run more tire. So I'll consider that when it comes time to do paint and body.
Sadly, this is the only pic I took of a rear tire installed.
This did result in a new problem - the adapters don't work at .500". There's just not enough meat to 'adapt'. So I pulled the trigger and am installing a set 4th-gen f-body brakes on the back and having my axles drilled for a Ford bolt pattern. I'm hoping to have this done by the end of the week, so stay tuned.
Last edited by hookemdevils22; Jun 27, 2013 at 04:50 PM. Reason: add link to pic of outer wheel well
I have the older style rear GM disc brakes that have the calipers with the parking brake lever (Seville style) on them. Food for thought, the rotors on this style of disc brake setup spaces your wheels out approximately .250"-.300" over the factory drum setup. Maybe it will be enough to prevent any spacers required at all.