LQ4 in a 1971 Nova
It might come down to where the rotor surfaces center up on the hub. might take some measurements to see where the flange and the caliper are in relationship to where the rotor surfaces will be... Since you were on the Kore3 site. .you can see the drawing and get an idea of how to measure...
BC
BC
Well, she'll be back on the ground by the weekend. Doing some powder coating tonight, then rebuilding the calipers. Axles and rotors should be done soon, and the stainless adapter hoses are en route.
The nice thing is that I have plenty of room. I'll do my best to center the wheels, but I won't be concerned if they're not perfect, since there's about 1" of room left to play with.
Also, Kore3 does 'vette stuff, so they don't have any f-body specific drawings. The main difference between the two is the e-brake drums integrated into the f-body rotors, which puts the rotor surface and caliper further inboard (relative to the hub) than the Corvette. Pad size is also slightly different, but caliper bore and banjo bolts are the same size. Here's some specs for reference:
First, their rear C5 drawing.
C5 Rotor (left)/F-body rotor (right)
C5 Caliper (left)/F-body caliper (right)
The nice thing is that I have plenty of room. I'll do my best to center the wheels, but I won't be concerned if they're not perfect, since there's about 1" of room left to play with.
Also, Kore3 does 'vette stuff, so they don't have any f-body specific drawings. The main difference between the two is the e-brake drums integrated into the f-body rotors, which puts the rotor surface and caliper further inboard (relative to the hub) than the Corvette. Pad size is also slightly different, but caliper bore and banjo bolts are the same size. Here's some specs for reference:
First, their rear C5 drawing.
C5 Rotor (left)/F-body rotor (right)
C5 Caliper (left)/F-body caliper (right)
Last edited by hookemdevils22; Jun 26, 2013 at 10:05 AM.
Exactly. I'll run these out then go with a 315.
I powdercoated the calipers and brackets gloss black. Got a Kore3 FlexKore rear 3-piece hose kit (this with the axle drop hose - have to call to order) to adapt from the metric calipers to SAE hard brake lines. Picking up the axles and rotors later today. I'm running the Nova disc/drum MC until I upgrade the front brakes, so I checked to make sure my MC didn't have a residual valve, which it didn't. I still need to check the combination valve, though I'm pretty sure it's just a distribution block - it is the original drum/drum block, and per Inline Tube, it doesn't have a residual valve in it.
Anyway, she'll be back on the ground this weekend.
I ended up cutting my drum brake backing plates, rather than buying spacers. You can see they're .110" thick. I've heard 3/16" (.1875") is the sweet spot, so I found a set of ~.070" thick washers to install as well. I'll check caliper clearance when I get the parts bolted up. This requires 1/2" longer bolts (1.5" shank length).
Here's the drum backing plate. Just cut out around the 4 middle bolt holes and grind to fit the disc backing plates.
FlexKore lines - 10" to the calipers, 15" drop
I powdercoated the calipers and brackets gloss black. Got a Kore3 FlexKore rear 3-piece hose kit (this with the axle drop hose - have to call to order) to adapt from the metric calipers to SAE hard brake lines. Picking up the axles and rotors later today. I'm running the Nova disc/drum MC until I upgrade the front brakes, so I checked to make sure my MC didn't have a residual valve, which it didn't. I still need to check the combination valve, though I'm pretty sure it's just a distribution block - it is the original drum/drum block, and per Inline Tube, it doesn't have a residual valve in it.
Anyway, she'll be back on the ground this weekend.
I ended up cutting my drum brake backing plates, rather than buying spacers. You can see they're .110" thick. I've heard 3/16" (.1875") is the sweet spot, so I found a set of ~.070" thick washers to install as well. I'll check caliper clearance when I get the parts bolted up. This requires 1/2" longer bolts (1.5" shank length).
Here's the drum backing plate. Just cut out around the 4 middle bolt holes and grind to fit the disc backing plates.
FlexKore lines - 10" to the calipers, 15" drop
Axles are back in. I'd also like any gear gurus to take a gander at some pics I took while it was apart. I've been battling a vibration above 65 that's resulted in the pinion nut backing off and false brinelling of the axle outer bearing races. Pics in the link below.
Highway Vibe - Pretty Sure it's the Rear
Highway Vibe - Pretty Sure it's the Rear
Did you set up the rear initially? On pic 5 it appears the ring gear has significant wear. Just curious, what brand of gear set was used. Was it street gears or pro gears? Stock axles? Sorry about all of the questions! My brother in law is an excellent mechanic that specializes in rear setups and I know the more info I can throw at him the better the answer will be.
I did not set it up; we had a local shop do it. They also installed the ladder bars and coil-overs. The gears are Richmond (3.90)- I'm pretty sure they're street, but I can far some numbers off em tomorrow. They were given to me, but I was told they were good. Stock axles, tubes were NOT welded.
Hey man, any help is appreciated. I'm going to forward the pics to one of the gear guys at work tomorrow, too.
Hey man, any help is appreciated. I'm going to forward the pics to one of the gear guys at work tomorrow, too.
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Verdad Gallardo Are you sure its not the tires/wheels? I know after I pulled my rallyes off and went with the current set up, the car lost its vibration. I had a bad, violent shake in my car under acceleration before. It would only do it under a load and at certain, either rpms or mph. I used hub-centric rings on the new wheels. I even went as far as replacing the front rotors for a more consistent machine hub surface for the rings.
When you said the nut backed off more than once, did you replace the nut? What about the crush sleeve, was there enough preload on the pinion gear before the back lash and location was set? With the pinion sliding back as the nut backed off the gear set may have been damaged. I will try to grab some info over the next couple of days.
When you said the nut backed off more than once, did you replace the nut? What about the crush sleeve, was there enough preload on the pinion gear before the back lash and location was set? With the pinion sliding back as the nut backed off the gear set may have been damaged. I will try to grab some info over the next couple of days.
I've run through 3 sets of wheels and tires on the car to no avail. I haven't gotten her up to highway speed with new wheels and disc brakes, but I'm pretty sure it will do no good. I also borrowed a set of rears from a buddy to check the Centerlines, but the vibe was still there.
When I had the drive shaft checked, they found the nut backed off. They just re-torqued it, which helped a little.
I'm going to triple-check the driveline angle when I get her back on the ground tonight.
Also, one wheel on! Need to get one longer bolt for the driver's side backing plate, then I can bolt that side up.
Plenty of room to fit bigger meats.
When I had the drive shaft checked, they found the nut backed off. They just re-torqued it, which helped a little.
I'm going to triple-check the driveline angle when I get her back on the ground tonight.
Also, one wheel on! Need to get one longer bolt for the driver's side backing plate, then I can bolt that side up.
Plenty of room to fit bigger meats.
Last edited by hookemdevils22; Jul 2, 2013 at 10:59 AM.
I am liking those wheels! They really set the car off!
A little less than desirable inside clearance but you may be fine. It would be nice to add some weight to one side to recheck the clearance though.
Do you think the vibration from the center section caused the premature axle wear? I know the stock axles I pulled out of my 8.5" 10 bolt were worn far worse than those you have and I didn't have any vibrations at the time. You can use axle saver bearings if you are concerned with the current wear pattern. As far as the rear goes, I say new gears and some Timken bearings ought to help. I would definately use a new pinion nut and crush sleeve. When I went through my rear I used Richmond gears and their installation kit. The kit included all new Timken bearings etc. I set it up and rechecked everything a dozen times only to have a whine at cruising speeds. It is really irritating when something doesn't go as planned. I will try and talk to my guy tomorrow to see if he can help out any.
A little less than desirable inside clearance but you may be fine. It would be nice to add some weight to one side to recheck the clearance though.
Do you think the vibration from the center section caused the premature axle wear? I know the stock axles I pulled out of my 8.5" 10 bolt were worn far worse than those you have and I didn't have any vibrations at the time. You can use axle saver bearings if you are concerned with the current wear pattern. As far as the rear goes, I say new gears and some Timken bearings ought to help. I would definately use a new pinion nut and crush sleeve. When I went through my rear I used Richmond gears and their installation kit. The kit included all new Timken bearings etc. I set it up and rechecked everything a dozen times only to have a whine at cruising speeds. It is really irritating when something doesn't go as planned. I will try and talk to my guy tomorrow to see if he can help out any.
She's back on the ground! Drives very nice, too. Sadly, it's too hot to drive beyond short trips. And tony, I've got 1" of clearance on the inside. surely that's adequate, given some tight fits I've seen?
Still have some driveline angles to take, and another 1" or so to drop it, but this is likely her driving configuration. I'll get some better pics with my good camera. The phone just doesn't do it justice.
Still have some driveline angles to take, and another 1" or so to drop it, but this is likely her driving configuration. I'll get some better pics with my good camera. The phone just doesn't do it justice.
Last edited by hookemdevils22; Jul 12, 2013 at 04:17 PM. Reason: edited the pics to better show off the wheels
Look's awesome
Thanks for the write up on the tubs.
I plan on doing mine next year after I move. (again)
It gives me a better idea what I'm getting into.
I might have to teach my boy to weld since I'm bigger than frojoe and he barely fits from his pic's.
-I'm looking at moving to Avondale area if I get the job I'm trying for-
Thanks for the write up on the tubs.
I plan on doing mine next year after I move. (again)
It gives me a better idea what I'm getting into.
I might have to teach my boy to weld since I'm bigger than frojoe and he barely fits from his pic's.
-I'm looking at moving to Avondale area if I get the job I'm trying for-
Well I'll be around, and hopefully Rich too (haven't heard from you in a while!). Avondale is a ways from me, but they do runs up to Wickenburg and what-have-you.
This was my first legit welding project, and while it's certainly nowhere near professional, it turned out pretty good. So if I can do it, just about anyone can.
So three things: still fighting that damn vibe (see link above), this thing DEFINITELY needs a 6-speed, and I picked up this as a new daily. 3-pedal shark nose FTW:
This was my first legit welding project, and while it's certainly nowhere near professional, it turned out pretty good. So if I can do it, just about anyone can.
So three things: still fighting that damn vibe (see link above), this thing DEFINITELY needs a 6-speed, and I picked up this as a new daily. 3-pedal shark nose FTW:
Well I'll be around, and hopefully Rich too (haven't heard from you in a while!). Avondale is a ways from me, but they do runs up to Wickenburg and what-have-you.
This was my first legit welding project, and while it's certainly nowhere near professional, it turned out pretty good. So if I can do it, just about anyone can.
So three things: still fighting that damn vibe (see link above), this thing DEFINITELY needs a 6-speed, and I picked up this as a new daily. 3-pedal shark nose FTW:
This was my first legit welding project, and while it's certainly nowhere near professional, it turned out pretty good. So if I can do it, just about anyone can.
So three things: still fighting that damn vibe (see link above), this thing DEFINITELY needs a 6-speed, and I picked up this as a new daily. 3-pedal shark nose FTW:
Update - I broke down and took it to a shop to have the rear looked at. Of course the fan started cutting out, so that's another thing I get to look at (yay!).
They found the pinion bearing bad (likely due to overtightening), and said they'd have to crack it open to look at the rest.
And I twisted the driveshaft. Which is bad, but also pretty awesome?
They found the pinion bearing bad (likely due to overtightening), and said they'd have to crack it open to look at the rest.
And I twisted the driveshaft. Which is bad, but also pretty awesome?