LQ4 in a 1971 Nova
Luckily a new pinion bearing isn't to hard to fix if there's no gear damage. I still feel like the root cause of the vibration was else where, perhaps it has more to do with the twisted shaft. You must have been putting the hurt on that thing.
Well, you saw the gears, so I'm pretty sure they're ok. I plan to replace the bearing, yoke, etc. I heard the yoke can cause vibration, so I'm replacing it since I'm in there.
In other news, my fan quit working today, and I very nearly burned her to the ground. Luckily I found the problem quickly - the dumbass who did the wiring used butt connectors instead of soldering like he should have done (I refuse to show pics because I'm so embarrassed). Let this be a lesson, and remember - if I can somehow do this and make it work (seeing how much I've had to go back and redo things), anyone can. It's really a shame to see Clint's excellent work then deal with my crap. But at least I'm (slowly) working out the kinks.
In other news, my fan quit working today, and I very nearly burned her to the ground. Luckily I found the problem quickly - the dumbass who did the wiring used butt connectors instead of soldering like he should have done (I refuse to show pics because I'm so embarrassed). Let this be a lesson, and remember - if I can somehow do this and make it work (seeing how much I've had to go back and redo things), anyone can. It's really a shame to see Clint's excellent work then deal with my crap. But at least I'm (slowly) working out the kinks.
The wheels look great. Sounds like a near miss on the fan, cant say I havent done the same so you wont get any judgement from me.
Based on the driving you have done so far, does it look like the front wheels are clearing with that offset/ adapter? Do you know how far you are lowered from stock in the front? Standard inner fenders? Where did you get the adapters from, and how is the quality?
I need to figure out what to do with my car for wheels, and I am thinking of going with wheel adapters to get a more affordable wheel in a style I like. There a a couple of TSWs that are close, and copying sizes that you have already tested would save me alot of time and money.
Just wondering, but have any of the shops checked your rear end with an aligment bar and pucks? I regeared a Dana 60 once that came out of a nice clean van, and was amazed how far out of alignment the housing ends were from the factory. I cant see how that would cause youre vibration issue, it usually kills wheel bearings, wheel seals, and carrier bearings. Just grasping at straws since it seems like you have hit all the common problems already.
Based on the driving you have done so far, does it look like the front wheels are clearing with that offset/ adapter? Do you know how far you are lowered from stock in the front? Standard inner fenders? Where did you get the adapters from, and how is the quality?
I need to figure out what to do with my car for wheels, and I am thinking of going with wheel adapters to get a more affordable wheel in a style I like. There a a couple of TSWs that are close, and copying sizes that you have already tested would save me alot of time and money.
Just wondering, but have any of the shops checked your rear end with an aligment bar and pucks? I regeared a Dana 60 once that came out of a nice clean van, and was amazed how far out of alignment the housing ends were from the factory. I cant see how that would cause youre vibration issue, it usually kills wheel bearings, wheel seals, and carrier bearings. Just grasping at straws since it seems like you have hit all the common problems already.
Based on the driving you have done so far, does it look like the front wheels are clearing with that offset/ adapter?
They clear great. My camber is set to zero, which I'm not happy about, but I've hammered on her pretty hard with zero rubbing.
Do you know how far you are lowered from stock in the front?
I'd guess 2". I'm pretty sure the apex of the outer fender wheel cutout is about 23" from the pavement.
Standard inner fenders? Yes
Where did you get the adapters from, and how is the quality?
They came with a set of 17" Ford wheels I bought. Not sure the brand. They're excellent, though I milled the rears down to .500".
I need to figure out what to do with my car for wheels, and I am thinking of going with wheel adapters to get a more affordable wheel in a style I like. There a a couple of TSWs that are close, and copying sizes that you have already tested would save me alot of time and money.
TSW makes some great wheels. And there are so many more options if you go with a Ford bolt pattern. Though drilling the rear axles was a pain in the ***.
Just wondering, but have any of the shops checked your rear end with an aligment bar and pucks? I regeared a Dana 60 once that came out of a nice clean van, and was amazed how far out of alignment the housing ends were from the factory. I cant see how that would cause youre vibration issue, it usually kills wheel bearings, wheel seals, and carrier bearings. Just grasping at straws since it seems like you have hit all the common problems already
Actually, no. I haven't gotten too far with it due to various other things coming up. That's a great idea though.
They clear great. My camber is set to zero, which I'm not happy about, but I've hammered on her pretty hard with zero rubbing.
Do you know how far you are lowered from stock in the front?
I'd guess 2". I'm pretty sure the apex of the outer fender wheel cutout is about 23" from the pavement.
Standard inner fenders? Yes
Where did you get the adapters from, and how is the quality?
They came with a set of 17" Ford wheels I bought. Not sure the brand. They're excellent, though I milled the rears down to .500".
I need to figure out what to do with my car for wheels, and I am thinking of going with wheel adapters to get a more affordable wheel in a style I like. There a a couple of TSWs that are close, and copying sizes that you have already tested would save me alot of time and money.
TSW makes some great wheels. And there are so many more options if you go with a Ford bolt pattern. Though drilling the rear axles was a pain in the ***.
Just wondering, but have any of the shops checked your rear end with an aligment bar and pucks? I regeared a Dana 60 once that came out of a nice clean van, and was amazed how far out of alignment the housing ends were from the factory. I cant see how that would cause youre vibration issue, it usually kills wheel bearings, wheel seals, and carrier bearings. Just grasping at straws since it seems like you have hit all the common problems already
Actually, no. I haven't gotten too far with it due to various other things coming up. That's a great idea though.
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Verdad Gallardo Nope, driveshaft has not been replaced. I should probably do it before GoodGuys in November though...
Garrett, thanks bud. I'm head over heels in love with the thing, vibes notwithstanding.
Garrett, thanks bud. I'm head over heels in love with the thing, vibes notwithstanding.
You haven't replaced your twisted driveshaft? Didn't you just get through rebuilding the rearend? Don't put your fresh bearings and seals against that abuse any more than you have to.
I put new outer wheel bearings and seals on, I wouldn't say I really rebuilt it. I'm honestly waiting for my house to sell to decide what I'm doing. The 4L80e might be coming out for a T56, at which point a new DS would be required anyway.
Hook.. on the front.. so.. the 18x8 with 5"bs is what it came out to ? (w/245x40x18). I tried my front wheel/tire from the chevelle on (17x8 w/4.5bs).. seem like another 1/2" would clear well..
On the rear.. how much space do you have between the inner fender and the tire.. ? could you measure how much rim is on the outside from the Hub ? (yeah. I know most people measure inner offset, but this way I know how much i have to work with outside and then work inward). I tried the chevelle front on the rear also.. had less than 1/2" between the inner/lip and tire.. so I am thinking 8" rim with 5" or 5 1/4" bs would work.. then add the extra 1" on the inside of the rim.
going to post the pictures of the trial on my build thread.. don't want to junk up your build thead with my junk ! LOL
thanks..
BC
On the rear.. how much space do you have between the inner fender and the tire.. ? could you measure how much rim is on the outside from the Hub ? (yeah. I know most people measure inner offset, but this way I know how much i have to work with outside and then work inward). I tried the chevelle front on the rear also.. had less than 1/2" between the inner/lip and tire.. so I am thinking 8" rim with 5" or 5 1/4" bs would work.. then add the extra 1" on the inside of the rim.
going to post the pictures of the trial on my build thread.. don't want to junk up your build thead with my junk ! LOL
thanks..
BC
Last edited by bczee; Sep 25, 2013 at 04:12 PM.
I do not... bczee has a good write-up on how he made it work. I have a neon center console and plan to install the floor-mount parking brake lever, which will likely require some creative fabbing to install.
I'll be doing it soon, along with a huge drivetrain change. Stay tuned...
I'll be doing it soon, along with a huge drivetrain change. Stay tuned...
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,092
Likes: 11
On my Skylark I I have 17" x 8" wheels on the front and 17" x 9.5" on the rear. On the rear I needed 6 3/8" backspacing with 285/40ZR17 tires. On the front with 5.0" of backspacing and 255/45ZR17 tires I had rubbing. I needed at least 5.25" of backspacing for that size of tire. Maybe more. I installed 245/45ZR17 tires on the front and the rubbing is down to almost nothing but there is some in certain situations.
Small update. So this happened last night...
Revisiting a question I asked a few months ago, it appears that I have only a couple wiring bits to take care of to install a T56. bczee laid it out pretty well here (my inputs in bold):
So I've ordered a third pedal and MC bracket. 80 should be out this week, expecting the T56/clutch/Tick master to arrive before turkey day.
Revisiting a question I asked a few months ago, it appears that I have only a couple wiring bits to take care of to install a T56. bczee laid it out pretty well here (my inputs in bold):
1) VSS - I don't run a VSS to the PCM in my swap and have not had any issue of low idle or dying on stopping.. but the PCM does like to know when your not moving. My problem is that I have a Viper T56 whcih uses a different VSS and signal.
The F-body and 99-02 truck PCMs use the same pins (connector C2, pins 20 and 21) for VSS. The 4L80e has input and output speed sensors (output pins are C2 22/23), so depending on where the VSS is taken on the T56 (input or output), I can plug into either. I'm pretty sure this won't be difficult. This seems to be the only PCM input necessary.
2) Reverse Light Switch - Helpfull at night. I didn't run with one for a few years. Finally got around to it. Most will get out of the way anyway..LOL
I'm guessing that this is wired to a switch on the trans a la most manuals I know. I shouldn't have a problem here. No input to PCM.
3) Reverse Lockout - May have said they just slam it over, other have removed it. I have a Line Lock switch for to activate mine.
bc, care to comment on how you did this? Just use a momentary switch? Again, no PCM input.
4) CAG / Skip shift - The only one that is really useless, is this one.
This can be just disconnected or omitted at the trans with no issues?
The F-body and 99-02 truck PCMs use the same pins (connector C2, pins 20 and 21) for VSS. The 4L80e has input and output speed sensors (output pins are C2 22/23), so depending on where the VSS is taken on the T56 (input or output), I can plug into either. I'm pretty sure this won't be difficult. This seems to be the only PCM input necessary.
2) Reverse Light Switch - Helpfull at night. I didn't run with one for a few years. Finally got around to it. Most will get out of the way anyway..LOL
I'm guessing that this is wired to a switch on the trans a la most manuals I know. I shouldn't have a problem here. No input to PCM.
3) Reverse Lockout - May have said they just slam it over, other have removed it. I have a Line Lock switch for to activate mine.
bc, care to comment on how you did this? Just use a momentary switch? Again, no PCM input.
4) CAG / Skip shift - The only one that is really useless, is this one.
This can be just disconnected or omitted at the trans with no issues?
