Oh please. Talk about over reacting.

You came here starting trouble and now you have the nerve to ask for the thread to be closed? Ha!

 

Now is when you need to do it just to have done it with so many people betting against you. I would love to see this come to life.

 

That sorta reminds me of this....


Both are SICK, IMO...

 

You can keep an eye out for a shell, but right now all you need is some tubing, some measurements and a welder.
Since the transfer case can send the load out to both ends with the proper rotation it looks like it's been figured out how to do it. Probably want a t case with a diff... I think you mentioned that though.

Are you sure there isn't room for the T56 in the tunnel? I see the biggest issue being a clutch if it ends up AWD.

I would assume you're going to use some form of a backbone style frame?
Sounds like you need to measure the rocker spacing, the firewall locations and the rough suspension pick up points and get to building after you sketch up a design with measurements.

I would think it's very feasible even if it is A LOT of work.

 

Yes, a backbone style frame so I can keep the door sills low. How'd you know that?

I want to get the donor car, a busted block, seats and a plasma cutter for starters. I want to physically position the parts and check the fitment. I can't do anything without the donor. I'm going to be driving my good car during this build so it's off limits until it's time to start swapping parts over.

I didn't say anything about the T56 not fitting in the trans tunnel. Where did you get that from?

 

Is that vette a running car? If so, where can I get more info on it?

 

I got interupted several times while reading the thread so my comment about the t56 was a mistake on my part.

A 4.5 grinder and a sawzall can do almost anything a plasma can and for a whole lot cheaper. It's messier and takes a bit more time, but the savings is probably worth it no? Lots of guys have built a chassis this way.

Since everything is going to be located off a tube frame why do you need a donor car to start?
You can get all the measurements off your car without taking apart anything and I can't imagine it's even remotely feasible to mount the body on the car for test fitment considering how heavy it's going to be. Am I missing something?

Just seems like a shell would get in the way for the most part until you're ready for it.

You might consider getting a foam/plastic block, it'll be way easier to move around for mock up.

Just throwing out ideas to help get this started as cheap and easy as possible.

 

The donor car and plasma cutter are essential. Here's why. I have to cut the bottom off the car and physically set the body on the ground just to see how it will look. I'll probably slice it off 1" at a time to make sure I don't cut too much off. Then I can put the seats in to determine the driving postion and make sure the pedals have enough height. I also need to confirm the sight lines.

Having the donor body will define the boundaries and establish the engine placement and height. This whole car is going to be flat on the bottom so everything needs to be as low as possible without hanging too low. Then I want to build the frame around the driver so I'm comfortable and can get in and out of it.

Really, it's the only way that makes sense for me to do it. Plus I will be using the dash and door jambs from the donor car along with a few other pieces. It's mostly going to be a tubular frame.

I do like your foam block idea, but it would have to be detailed with all the holes in it to really simulate the engine. Does anyone make such a thing?

 

"everything needs to be as low as possible without hanging too low."

ha.....jut get a cut off wheel and your good, no plasma cutter needed, unless the budget includes it.

 

Sorry but No.... it's just a photoshop of a member here did on what a mid-engine vette might look like.

.... but here's the thread it came from...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=mid+engine

Come to think of it though... the CERV 3 mid-engine prototypes were mid-engine running platforms. Might be worth researching them.

 

non vendors carry the block to bolt stuff to, it's plastic with metal threads. Just do a search on google.

so you're going to cut the bottom off the car... then put the seats on the ground to establish the sight line?
Wouldn't you build a frame and use seat brackets to change the height?
How will you mount pedals to a firewall that is flopping around because there's no structure there? wouldn't you want the frame there with front and rear blukheads/firewalls to mount the pedals to instead of what's left of the donor car that is going to be twisting around? In the end you're not sitting in the donor car, you sitting in a car you've built from scratch and threw a bird body on so using the bird body for anything other than throwing on this new car you've built I can't wrap my head around.
with the backbone frame you're talking about there is no issue with ingress egress. so there shouldn't be any need to build around the driver. The seat and pedals can be positioned basically any where you want after you have a frame. So I'm not sure what you mean about building around the driver.

you're only going to use the sills and dash... won't you use a lot more than that?

I have the same questions with the motor and transmission. You want to mock them up to a body that has lost all it's structural integrity?
Mock them up to what?
It seems you'd want to mock the motor, tranny, t case, and diffs up to the tube frame that is the basis of the car no? Measurements from any f body will establish/define the boundaries and I can't imagine you'd want to measure boundaries off a wrecked/stripped/salvaged donor car that you've cut apart.

I also figured that if your shy about spending on a built t case then there is no way you'd want to spend the money for a plasma cutter.

maybe you're not talking about building a tube frame car?

I'd like to see you do this, but I'm having a hard time visualizing your approach.

 

Let's not worry too much about the car construction. This thread is mainly focused on drivetrain options and how to package it.

I can get a plasma cutter for $500.

Some your other questions seem as if you don't realize this car is only going to be 35" tall. The seating position will be reclined and my rear will be close to the ground. Even with low sills, it's going to be tricky to get in and out. I probably won't have room for seat brackets. It will probably be a fixed seat position.

 

i hope you can go all the way through with this. This is an awesome idea! It can completely be done but your plans will change immensely once you get into it. Just be patient and dont give up. Dont worry about the haters, do this for yourself!

 

No...but he had a budget over 2000 dollars i bet.

 

Even that's debatable. My point is you don't need a fancy computer or a 5 axis CNC machine to build a custom car.

 

Here is another option for your mid engine car idea.

http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/t...econd&id=11033

Either way it's going to be expensive to do it right.

 

You really see that as an option?
$12k for a 3 speed auto?


I wouldn't use it if you gave it to me.

 

If your only going for around 500hp i would just buy a dropout LS4 FWD engine and put the G6 6-speed on it. The LS4 doesnt need any adapters and that would narrow the package a couple inches, also the LS4 accesories and crankshaft are 1.5" shorter. Also you mentioned doing a glass frontend and an aluminum floor would keep the weight well under 3000 lbs, probably closer to 2500. I dont think the G6 trans would have a problem with that, and i would say the input shaft would be the first thing to break. You can have a 300M hardened shaft made for <$500 and solve that problem. Finding a clutch to hold, im sure V8Archie has that covered. This also gives you the option of using the stock G6 cable shifters and shifter itself, saving you alot of fabrication.
My reasoning for this is im waiting to find a Monte SS with the LS4 that is wrecked in the rear, and picking up another LS4 front clip. Thus doing a twin engine AWD car using the complete FWD subframe and suspension on the rear. Ive measured it out on my T/A as well and it looks like it will fit behind the front seats with no wheelbase alteration.
Keep the ideas coming, but you should really do a rough measurement drawing of the FWD setup before you go crazy with transfer cases and 20 driveshafts. Like i said, if it works well you can always put another LS4 in the front and double the HP, i like crazy **** like this
Gary

 

This thread is still going? lol

Thought we decided this was a waste of time?

 

no, you decided it was a waste of time, so get the **** out