May 20, 2016, 02:10 PM
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- Camaro and Firebird How to Sequence Tail Lights<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
HOW TO: Sequential Tail Lights
Anyone know how to slow down the sequence on a camaro? The video of the yellow camaro LT1 lights is how mine are now, but I'd really like it to go slow. Anyone messed with this?
*edit* Did buy a diff flasher but it didn't really change anything. Is there a certain one to buy that is slower? Thanks.
*edit* Did buy a diff flasher but it didn't really change anything. Is there a certain one to buy that is slower? Thanks.
For anyone following this thread my sequential light kit from webelectric arrived recently. They work awesome! The instructions are very clear and everything needed for the install is included. If you want something like this dont hesitate to get a kit.
Sweet! I just ordered a kit for my car.
I hooked up the new flasher, not really impressed with it. Yeah it slows down the sequence, but not per light; just how long all lights stay lit. But it does look better than any of the previous ones; not clicking sound though.
What flasher did you get? I would think that you would want to get the flasher set to the amount of time for each flash setup first, then reset the sequencer. I've got the web electric sequencer and it says in the directions, IIRC, that it sets itself to the flasher speed automatically. So, I don't know if you can reset the sequencer to a new flasher speed or not. I'd try setting the flasher, then, disconnecting the battery for a minute then re-connecting and see where that puts you.
I was able to find the Amazon auction where the review was posted; so its the same part. I tried with all the different settings, and I was hoping the "pulse" option was going to work; but it didn't. Not the end of the world, but I guess the real issue is the timing of the sequencers themselves, not the flasher.
I just spoke to Lawrence at webelectric (very helpful guy in term of knowing his wiring)... Here's the scoop for us LS1 Camaros:
We'd need LOTS of work to make this work for our cars. There are 2 ways to go.
1. If you get the STS 2 kit, you'll only get the outer 2 lights will work, (and you lose your turn signal from the original spot, it just wont light up) Also, your brake light will only be the middle section of the tail light.
2. If you get the STS 1 kit, you'll need to run a trailer harness box. Essentially you cut your harness and run it to the new trailer box. (trailer boxes are the same ones you would need to tow a trailer with your car. They only have one light and it's both the brake and turn) You'll basically be sending the light signals to that "box" then that box will connect to the STS 1 kit and THAT will now make all the bulbs in the sequence light up OR signal. (The STS 1 kit sends out 1 signal so the trailer box is needed to send it out to the multiple bulbs)
He also said doing the trailer box it's way more of a pain, and they dont want to hassle with making it because the demand isn't there for that kit.
I may try to do the sequential one for me, but it isn't a mod I can actually see so I'm on the fence about it for now.
We'd need LOTS of work to make this work for our cars. There are 2 ways to go.
1. If you get the STS 2 kit, you'll only get the outer 2 lights will work, (and you lose your turn signal from the original spot, it just wont light up) Also, your brake light will only be the middle section of the tail light.
2. If you get the STS 1 kit, you'll need to run a trailer harness box. Essentially you cut your harness and run it to the new trailer box. (trailer boxes are the same ones you would need to tow a trailer with your car. They only have one light and it's both the brake and turn) You'll basically be sending the light signals to that "box" then that box will connect to the STS 1 kit and THAT will now make all the bulbs in the sequence light up OR signal. (The STS 1 kit sends out 1 signal so the trailer box is needed to send it out to the multiple bulbs)
He also said doing the trailer box it's way more of a pain, and they dont want to hassle with making it because the demand isn't there for that kit.
I may try to do the sequential one for me, but it isn't a mod I can actually see so I'm on the fence about it for now.
I just spoke to Lawrence at webelectric (very helpful guy in term of knowing his wiring)... Here's the scoop for us LS1 Camaros:
We'd need LOTS of work to make this work for our cars. There are 2 ways to go.
1. If you get the STS 2 kit, you'll only get the outer 2 lights will work, (and you lose your turn signal from the original spot, it just wont light up) Also, your brake light will only be the middle section of the tail light.
2. If you get the STS 1 kit, you'll need to run a trailer harness box. Essentially you cut your harness and run it to the new trailer box. (trailer boxes are the same ones you would need to tow a trailer with your car. They only have one light and it's both the brake and turn) You'll basically be sending the light signals to that "box" then that box will connect to the STS 1 kit and THAT will now make all the bulbs in the sequence light up OR signal. (The STS 1 kit sends out 1 signal so the trailer box is needed to send it out to the multiple bulbs)
He also said doing the trailer box it's way more of a pain, and they dont want to hassle with making it because the demand isn't there for that kit.
I may try to do the sequential one for me, but it isn't a mod I can actually see so I'm on the fence about it for now.
We'd need LOTS of work to make this work for our cars. There are 2 ways to go.
1. If you get the STS 2 kit, you'll only get the outer 2 lights will work, (and you lose your turn signal from the original spot, it just wont light up) Also, your brake light will only be the middle section of the tail light.
2. If you get the STS 1 kit, you'll need to run a trailer harness box. Essentially you cut your harness and run it to the new trailer box. (trailer boxes are the same ones you would need to tow a trailer with your car. They only have one light and it's both the brake and turn) You'll basically be sending the light signals to that "box" then that box will connect to the STS 1 kit and THAT will now make all the bulbs in the sequence light up OR signal. (The STS 1 kit sends out 1 signal so the trailer box is needed to send it out to the multiple bulbs)
He also said doing the trailer box it's way more of a pain, and they dont want to hassle with making it because the demand isn't there for that kit.
I may try to do the sequential one for me, but it isn't a mod I can actually see so I'm on the fence about it for now.
I just finished my WebElectric STS-3TA install and was not happy with the speed of the flashing. In addition, the left and right flash speed was different. To change things, I got a modified Blazer flasher and replaced the 1K Ohm resistor with a 10K Ohm resistor/10K Ohm pot combo.
The result was great and I did the same for the hazard and turn signals.
Please note - I fried a couple of these doing my experiments - kind of expensive. So, you'll want to make sure you don't run the flasher without the resistor in, be good with the soldering iron, and make sure you get the soldering right the first time. Soldering too much will fry the diodes in the unit. (They go up in a smelly fireball...)
ALSO - The hazards and turn signals have different maximum limits to the amount of resistance you can put on. I found that I couldn't go above 15 ohms for the hazards or 18K ohms for the turn signals - otherwise the relay in the flasher started skipping. So, I found the best method was to hook up the flasher, adjust the pot dial, and then snap the plastic cover back on.
If you want to throw down some coin, I expect this would work just as well:
http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/cat...stable-Flasher
Here's a video of before (with the stock thermal flasher), part-way (with the stock electronic flasher), and final. (with the modded electronic flasher) Its hard to see the difference in the left/right sequence speed in the video - but it was much more pronounced when the turn signals were firing.
The result was great and I did the same for the hazard and turn signals.
Please note - I fried a couple of these doing my experiments - kind of expensive. So, you'll want to make sure you don't run the flasher without the resistor in, be good with the soldering iron, and make sure you get the soldering right the first time. Soldering too much will fry the diodes in the unit. (They go up in a smelly fireball...)
ALSO - The hazards and turn signals have different maximum limits to the amount of resistance you can put on. I found that I couldn't go above 15 ohms for the hazards or 18K ohms for the turn signals - otherwise the relay in the flasher started skipping. So, I found the best method was to hook up the flasher, adjust the pot dial, and then snap the plastic cover back on.
If you want to throw down some coin, I expect this would work just as well:
http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/cat...stable-Flasher
Here's a video of before (with the stock thermal flasher), part-way (with the stock electronic flasher), and final. (with the modded electronic flasher) Its hard to see the difference in the left/right sequence speed in the video - but it was much more pronounced when the turn signals were firing.
Last edited by wssix99; Oct 3, 2016 at 01:48 PM.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 428
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From: Victoria - Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Are there any kits out there that allow for sequential turn signals, but don't make the brake lights flash like that? Up where I am, that'll get you pulled over by the pigs in no time. 