SO Ive watched Junk man's series of video's many times but just tried to polish the hood of my 98 Z28 today with lackluster results. And it brings me to a question. If I am just doing the hood of my car, how many times should I be applying new polish (105) to my orange cutting pad? I start with 4 pea sized drops and prime the pad but I'm unclear on how often it is acceptable to add 3 pea sized drops to a pad for a given area since I don't want to clog the pores. Do I add polish after each 1.5x1.5 section of the hood? I'm worrying that I might be being TOO conservative with polish.

 

it's been a while since I've seen his videos. If I remember correctly he is using Adam's polish or some other diminishing abrasives. M105, 100, 101, 205, D300 are non diminishing abrasives and require different pad priming/seasoning than diminishing abrasives.

 

Forgive me if this has been asked before.

I'm needing to clay bar my vehicles now that it's spring and need to replace my clay bar. I've read some pretty good things about using blue Nanoskin sponge/pad. Heard it was a huge time saver with great results. Can anyone confirm and recommend a specific one?

 

I haven't used the Nanoskin sponge/pad. I use CarPro's decon towel which is similar. It is a huge time saver. After I wash/rinse the car I use the decon towel with the clean soapy water as a lubricant which saves me from having to use a detail spray.

If you aren't going to polish the car make sure you get a fine grade towel/sponge. Some of the medium grade stuff can leave marring.

For areas that are heavily contaminated; bug guts on the front bumper and side mirrors and the contaminants on the rear bumper from the exhaust I normally I will go back over then with a clay bar.

 

Unfortunately, I will not be able to break out my DA and compounding products this spring, so it'll be just sealant and wax. I definitely plan on using the fine as both cars get washed weekly or bi-weekly, so I can't imagine they are too bad. But I'll keep that in mind!

 

To follow up, I have a question about IronX. I have to use it differently than last time I used it.


Currently living in an apartment while waiting for another transfer. So I have no garage or hose access. Currently use the coin op stalls to two bucket wash. I'll either dry in the stall or I'll use QD to remove dried water after air dry. So my question, what would be the best way to IronX with my situation? Should I wash it like normal, and dry it in the stall. Then use IronX and rinse down again?

Thanks in advance.

 

I would wash it like normal and dry it in the stall, IX it rinse. The car doesn't have to be completely dry to IX it, if there's a little water here and there it won't hurt.

When I IX a car that's heavily contaminated I agitate it with a grout sponge after it's been on for a few minutes. A grout sponge is very soft, I get them at Lowes. Rinse the sponge out, wring it out but not completely. With light pressure go over the car.

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...shing-car.html

 

So it seems my question is still unanswered. If I am using 105, how many times is it acceptable to apply new polish to the pad if Im doing the hood of a 4th gen Fbody?

Do I reapply polish after each 1.5x1.5 foot section?

 

Yes.

Google cleaning pad on the fly. Also search for pad priming and Kevin Brown for Meguiar's M105 and M205.

 

It's unanswered because there a many variables that have to be taken into consideration.

If you seasoned the pad properly.

Did you remove the excess polish after you seasoned the pad.

How much abraided paint is stuck in the pad and so on.

M105 is a great compound but it can be finicky and will dust really bad.

The best I can answer your question is this.

Properly season the pad using the Kevin Brown Method "KBM"

Blow almost all of the compound out of the pad.

Put three small pea sized drops on the pad.

Starting out work a 1x1 section at a time for 30-45 seconds at most.

Then use distilled water and mist the pad but don't add anymore product.

Work another 1x1 section. Using a pad brush and compressed air clean the pad. Add another 2 pea sized drops. Repeat, etc.

Do yourself a favor and get some D300 and use 1 drop of it and 2 drops of M105. D300 greatly extends the work time of M105 and keeps it from dusting.

As I said, M105 is great but there is a learning curve. It's not like using M205 were you can work it for days.

 

There's no set of, use this much product, work for this long, put more product on, etc.

After you spend some time polishing paint you will start to get an idea of what the paint wants. You'll figure out when and how much product to add.

What I suggested above is just that, a suggestion and from my experience from using M105 for the past four years or so.

What works for me may not work for you.

What machine you are using, the backing plate, which pad, pressure, pad rotation, humidity, pad saturation, how much paint you are removing, the hardness/softness of the paint all play a role in how much and when you apply more product.

 

ive read a lot of the pages but not all 130. i have a 99 hugger orange z28 thats in pretty decent condition but does need some detail work. and i would like to try and keep it in the best condition i can due to the rare color

ive got 2 quick questions
1. would it be best or fine if i just bought a blower to dry?
2. would it be ok, or ideal to use something like Gilmour Foamaster II Cleaning Gun Sprayer or would it be best to do it old fashioned way?

ive never done any detailing of any sort so i need some products. if someone could help me out and go over my list of stuff to make any needed changes. the list is mostly based off of gofast's suggestions on page 5.

go fast suggested Meguiars Porter Cable XP Ultra Polish Kit with 5.5 Inch Pads
http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-meguiars-kit.html

but ive seen some say they would suggest or wish they had went with griots 6"
Griot’s Garage & Meguiar’s Paint Perfection Kit
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garag...ction-kit.html

Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel
BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection
Meguiars D111 Shampoo Plus Bucket Combo
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-d111-bucket-combo.html
Sonax Wheel Cleaner & Speed Master Wheel Brush Combo http://www.autogeek.net/sonax-full-e...ed-master.html

gofast's tire dressing was from a different website, so to avoid extra shipping costs i chose Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel 32 oz.
http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti...-gel-32oz.html

he didnt have a clay suggestion on page 5 so i chose Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Special
http://www.autogeek.net/piulpoclkit.html

i feel confident claying, but polishing im a little weary. should i maybe just clay and buy some hand appliers for the sealant and leave it at that? maybe have a local person or shop do the polish and just try and maintain it?

bonus question, if your driving and a bug splatters on your windshield, do you use the wiper fluid to clean or just wait till you get home to clean? if you use wiper fluid, do you add anything to it like Pinnacle GlassWork Windshield Washer Booster?

thanks

 

These are some fine choices. Being that you are new I would not recommend starting with M105. It has a slight learning curve and can cause some frustrations. M205 on the other had is an amazing polish. Anybody can use it.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is derived from M105. Think of it like a little brother. It's a great product and it is user friendly. It can be found locally as well as M205.

The paint on these cars tends to be on the hard side so it can require a little more work to remove defects. But not all cars are the same. A test spot with the least aggressive method is always recommended.

With regards to a polisher, the PC7424XP is a nice tool. The Griots Da offers more power. With either polisher I would pick up a 5" backing plate and 5" pads.

That soap kit is fine. D111 is a real nice shampoo.

On to wheels, I would pick up a set of wheel woolies over the speed master brush. If you wish to use a product that is similar to Sonax in terms of color changing, Meguiar's offers their DUB wheel cleaner and they also offer their new Mirror Bright Wheel Cleaner. Both work well.

If you plan to dress the tires, I would also recommend investing in a tire cleaner of some sort to prep the tire so that the tire dressing lasts longer.

For clay, I would recommend picking up either a clay kit such as the Meguiar's one or the Mothers one. They come with clay lubricant. If you wish to buy some really nice clay, clay magic offers a blue clay bar that in my opinion is the best. You can find that locally. A clay lube like Meguiar's Quick Detailer or Mothers Showtime can also be purchased locally.

It is completely up to you on whether or not you wish to proceed to machine polishing. Once you practice you will get better at it.

To answer your question about bugs wiper fluid is fine if you are driving. There is a video on Larry's Ammo NYC youtube channel on how he attacks bugs. You don't need that Pinnacle product.

For someone starting out I would recommend starting out with Meguiar's Ultimate line (ultimate compound, ultimate polish and ultimate wax). All are accessible locally and all are user friendly.

Griot's has a few good products available as well. Some can be found locally. They have their Complete Compound and Complete Polish and Liquid Poly Wax which can be found locally or online.

Are you looking to find products locally or online? I can give you a good starting point with a couple different brands available locally.

 

online is typically cheaper from my experience. if price is the same and the online products dont offer any advantages(from my experience they usually do) then i wouldnt object to buying locally. or if i should start with some more user friendly products until i feel comfortable, im willing.

i dont know of the quality of the clay i chose but its a kit that comes with lubricant and a pair of microfiber towels

what do you think about using the foamaster gun? or just stick to the 2 buckets?

 

Head over to Autogeek, Autopia or Meguiar's Online and join their forums. Lots of good people there.

 

Take at look at some of the sales at Autogeek.

ie this kit. 5" pads would be better. Maybe if you call them they can swap pad sizes.

http://www.autogeek.net/best-griots-...uffer-kit.html

 

I was hoping to get one of their lots/bundles to save some money but it seems everyone on forums disagree with the sizes or the brand of pads or something

 

I've been using the Meguires Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish on my car. I have quite a bit of time put into it and it gets out the swirls, but there's a lot of scratches/marring I can't seem to get out. The car looks much better but I still want more correction. I admit I'm using a cheap random orbit polisher I had laying around (all I have), and some foam and cotton terry cloth applicator pads.

Should I keep working the stubborn spots with the Ultimate Compound, or try a harsher compound? Also, I left a few buffer marks. Do I just re-polish them out?

 

What tool are you working with?