Ask a Professional Detailer
I haven't been able to read the whole thread it is kind of long so forgive me if it has been asked but what is the best and safesy way to clean the engine? Mine is looking a little grungy and I want to make it look nice again.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Gensokyo
Literally just an off brand 8" RO polisher. Less than ideal, but it was free LOL.
It's been sitting a while in the garage and by the time I finished, the soft foam base you put the pads on was falling apart, so I definitely need to buy something new. I just don't want to spend a lot of money at the moment. Is there a way to make due with a basic store bought RO polisher?
It's been sitting a while in the garage and by the time I finished, the soft foam base you put the pads on was falling apart, so I definitely need to buy something new. I just don't want to spend a lot of money at the moment. Is there a way to make due with a basic store bought RO polisher?
Here are a couple kits that are nice
http://www.autogeek.net/pc-3d-hd-flawless-kit.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-kit.html
This is also another good kit.
http://www.autogeek.net/best-griots-...uffer-kit.html
You could also look into the Harbor Freight dual action polisher and get yourself some pads and a 5" backing plate.
You could then pick up some products locally. Meguiar's has their ultimate compound, polish and wax. Griot's (see link above) has just released their new products which are comparable to the Meguiar's ultimate line.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Gensokyo
Yes it would be a good starter. Definitely get a 5" backing plate to run 5"-5.5" pads.
Here are a couple kits that are nice
http://www.autogeek.net/pc-3d-hd-flawless-kit.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-kit.html
This is also another good kit.
http://www.autogeek.net/best-griots-...uffer-kit.html
You could also look into the Harbor Freight dual action polisher and get yourself some pads and a 5" backing plate.
You could then pick up some products locally. Meguiar's has their ultimate compound, polish and wax. Griot's (see link above) has just released their new products which are comparable to the Meguiar's ultimate line.
Here are a couple kits that are nice
http://www.autogeek.net/pc-3d-hd-flawless-kit.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-kit.html
This is also another good kit.
http://www.autogeek.net/best-griots-...uffer-kit.html
You could also look into the Harbor Freight dual action polisher and get yourself some pads and a 5" backing plate.
You could then pick up some products locally. Meguiar's has their ultimate compound, polish and wax. Griot's (see link above) has just released their new products which are comparable to the Meguiar's ultimate line.
If love to try some more boutique stuff but with shipping costs adding up, it's easier to stick with Meguires locally.
Ultimate Compound is derived from M105. It contains the same abrasives found in M105. I would not recommend M105 for someone starting out. It has a learning curve and it can be frustrating. Ultimate Compound is much more user friendly.
Before you start I would recommend a test spot with the least aggressive polish and pad. For example Ultimate Polish on a polishing pad. If you need more correction you can move up to UC and a cutting pad.
If you are able to get the Meguiar's thin foam pads, I would get those. I am not a fan of anything chemical guys.
Lake Country has some new thin pro pads as well. Thinner pads will translate the tools power better. Especially on a PC7424XP.
Before you start I would recommend a test spot with the least aggressive polish and pad. For example Ultimate Polish on a polishing pad. If you need more correction you can move up to UC and a cutting pad.
If you are able to get the Meguiar's thin foam pads, I would get those. I am not a fan of anything chemical guys.
Lake Country has some new thin pro pads as well. Thinner pads will translate the tools power better. Especially on a PC7424XP.
My friend who details my cars uses sealant in addition to wax, whereas most detailers only use wax and not sealant. He says sealant is a harder coat to protect against bird crap, tree sap, and road salt in the winter. Why don't some detailers use sealant? I ask because it seems like a no-brainer for a detail that lasts several months and protects against daily drivers' worst nightmares.
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Poorboy's World Trim Restorer
http://www.autogeek.net/pbtr16.html
Solution Finish Black Plastic & Vinyl Restorer
http://www.autogeek.net/best-plastic-restorer.html
McKee's 37 Interior Surface Protectant(protectant but claims "Faded dashboards will be restored to their original color and dry hardened leather will be dark and soft again."
http://www.autogeek.net/dp380.html
My friend who details my cars uses sealant in addition to wax, whereas most detailers only use wax and not sealant. He says sealant is a harder coat to protect against bird crap, tree sap, and road salt in the winter. Why don't some detailers use sealant? I ask because it seems like a no-brainer for a detail that lasts several months and protects against daily drivers' worst nightmares.
the most ideal situation would be sealant first then add a wax over it for best of both worlds. however that costs more and uses more time so perhaps some just go for the wax or maybe arent informed enough about sealants
Anyone have any experience with DoDo Juice "Light Fantastic"? I've read multiple reviews that state this wax is incredible for lighter colored vehicles. I'm thinking about trying this out on my 2002 Pewter-Metallic WS6.
My friend who details my cars uses sealant in addition to wax, whereas most detailers only use wax and not sealant. He says sealant is a harder coat to protect against bird crap, tree sap, and road salt in the winter. Why don't some detailers use sealant? I ask because it seems like a no-brainer for a detail that lasts several months and protects against daily drivers' worst nightmares.
Good article to read.
https://www.facebook.com/notes/dylan...98094676895539
im a noob but from what ive read a sealant is indeed a better form of protection and last longer but waxes tend to give a better look.
the most ideal situation would be sealant first then add a wax over it for best of both worlds. however that costs more and uses more time so perhaps some just go for the wax or maybe arent informed enough about sealants
the most ideal situation would be sealant first then add a wax over it for best of both worlds. however that costs more and uses more time so perhaps some just go for the wax or maybe arent informed enough about sealants
im no professional and havent used these but thought i would give you some things to look at until someone with experience can help you
Poorboy's World Trim Restorer
http://www.autogeek.net/pbtr16.html
Solution Finish Black Plastic & Vinyl Restorer
http://www.autogeek.net/best-plastic-restorer.html
McKee's 37 Interior Surface Protectant(protectant but claims "Faded dashboards will be restored to their original color and dry hardened leather will be dark and soft again."
http://www.autogeek.net/dp380.html
Poorboy's World Trim Restorer
http://www.autogeek.net/pbtr16.html
Solution Finish Black Plastic & Vinyl Restorer
http://www.autogeek.net/best-plastic-restorer.html
McKee's 37 Interior Surface Protectant(protectant but claims "Faded dashboards will be restored to their original color and dry hardened leather will be dark and soft again."
http://www.autogeek.net/dp380.html
