Ask a Professional Detailer
I do not know how you could deduce that from my post. I do not think that at all, I think you are providing a great service.
I was commenting on the people who use the excuse "I don't have the time to read through all the pages, so let me ask..." while pointing out the thread itself has a search function and is much longer because of repetitive questions.
I was commenting on the people who use the excuse "I don't have the time to read through all the pages, so let me ask..." while pointing out the thread itself has a search function and is much longer because of repetitive questions.
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Alot of what your $500 budget post listed:
PC Kit from AutoGeek
Meg. shampoo
Wash Mitt
3pk of the cobra waffle weave MF towels (really good deal, basically if you buy 2 you get 1 free!)
BFWD 16oz for starters
stoner invisible glass
How many WW drying towels do you use in one drying session on an Fbody? I figured it was at least 2.
Also, how many times could I do my T/A with the 16 oz. bottle?
Sorry if these have been asked before, it took me a week after work reading through the first 60 pages so I could've forgotten something.
PC Kit from AutoGeek
Meg. shampoo
Wash Mitt
3pk of the cobra waffle weave MF towels (really good deal, basically if you buy 2 you get 1 free!)
BFWD 16oz for starters
stoner invisible glass
How many WW drying towels do you use in one drying session on an Fbody? I figured it was at least 2.
Also, how many times could I do my T/A with the 16 oz. bottle?
Sorry if these have been asked before, it took me a week after work reading through the first 60 pages so I could've forgotten something.
Should I wash my MF/drying towels before I use them on my car or does it matter?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
Being a professional detailer for the last 7 years myself, and being no one answered your question....I'll help you out.
1. After a nice mitt wash their are several ways you can go about drying your car. My perferred method - even with hard water - is to use a California Water Blade to remove the bulk of the water followed by an air dryer (leaf blower). HOWEVER, make sure your water blade is clean before every use by running it under water and running your finger over the blade to remove any dust/dirt/debris. I use a Craftsman vacuum with detachable blower to air dry the vehicles. Afterwards, if you have any waterspots/streaks you can come back around with a micro and quick detail spray to touch up.
2. There really isn't any solid answer to this. There are so many variables including how you maintain it, how its stored, the weather in your area, and the products you use just to name a few. Claying should usually only be done when needed (you'll feel it in the paint), as you're running a brick across the paint - again it comes down to how the car is maintained as far as a timeline goes. Wax/Seal are essentially the same thing. Waxing usually referes to using a natural product (think Carnuaba), where as Sealing usually referes to a synthetic wax. However, from what I've been told and read you can do both, seal first, wax after, if you choose to. This again, can vary GREATLY on the timeline, but mainly because of the product, but also the conditions your car endures. You can never wax/seal a car too much - I did my Gen 1 lightning EVERY Saturday. But, I typically tell my customers once a quarter is great, twice a year is pushing it, but no less then once a year, as no product can last that long. Typical life on waxes range from 2wk to 4 months (again, depending on the variables), and sealants up to a year.
Hope this helps.
1. After a nice mitt wash their are several ways you can go about drying your car. My perferred method - even with hard water - is to use a California Water Blade to remove the bulk of the water followed by an air dryer (leaf blower). HOWEVER, make sure your water blade is clean before every use by running it under water and running your finger over the blade to remove any dust/dirt/debris. I use a Craftsman vacuum with detachable blower to air dry the vehicles. Afterwards, if you have any waterspots/streaks you can come back around with a micro and quick detail spray to touch up.
2. There really isn't any solid answer to this. There are so many variables including how you maintain it, how its stored, the weather in your area, and the products you use just to name a few. Claying should usually only be done when needed (you'll feel it in the paint), as you're running a brick across the paint - again it comes down to how the car is maintained as far as a timeline goes. Wax/Seal are essentially the same thing. Waxing usually referes to using a natural product (think Carnuaba), where as Sealing usually referes to a synthetic wax. However, from what I've been told and read you can do both, seal first, wax after, if you choose to. This again, can vary GREATLY on the timeline, but mainly because of the product, but also the conditions your car endures. You can never wax/seal a car too much - I did my Gen 1 lightning EVERY Saturday. But, I typically tell my customers once a quarter is great, twice a year is pushing it, but no less then once a year, as no product can last that long. Typical life on waxes range from 2wk to 4 months (again, depending on the variables), and sealants up to a year.
Hope this helps.
I do not know how you could deduce that from my post. I do not think that at all, I think you are providing a great service.
I was commenting on the people who use the excuse "I don't have the time to read through all the pages, so let me ask..." while pointing out the thread itself has a search function and is much longer because of repetitive questions.
I was commenting on the people who use the excuse "I don't have the time to read through all the pages, so let me ask..." while pointing out the thread itself has a search function and is much longer because of repetitive questions.
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I would try Tarminator to see if that would dissolve whatever it is. Tarminator is pretty versatile stuff.
-flood the pain with the hose with no nozzle first to remove majority of water
-Electric leaf blower (excellent for wheels), and do this when the ground is wet, you don't want to stir dirt up back onto the car
-Waffle Weave drying microfiber towel with some quick detail spray if needed.
Claying should be done whenever the car needs it, so it depends on your environment. If the paint starts to feel rough, clay it.
How often for wax and seal? Depends on the product and environment again. Daily Driver vs Garage queen will be drastically different. Most OTC waxes are about 4-6 weeks. Higher end waxes can get you 3+ months.
Sealants are usually starting in the 3-4 month range and can go over 6 months.
DoDo Juice has a wax specifically for yellow cars. Some call it marketing, so say it works amazing.... I haven't tried it so I can't comment. IMO there will be little difference if any compared to wax of similar quality.
I think the BFWD has it by the looks and the slickness as well as ease of application and removal.
However, Zaino gives a much better reflective surface and will beat the durability of BFWD by almost double (3-4mo vs 6+ mo)
However, Zaino gives a much better reflective surface and will beat the durability of BFWD by almost double (3-4mo vs 6+ mo)
Being a professional detailer for the last 7 years myself, and being no one answered your question....I'll help you out.
1. After a nice mitt wash their are several ways you can go about drying your car. My perferred method - even with hard water - is to use a California Water Blade to remove the bulk of the water followed by an air dryer (leaf blower). HOWEVER, make sure your water blade is clean before every use by running it under water and running your finger over the blade to remove any dust/dirt/debris. I use a Craftsman vacuum with detachable blower to air dry the vehicles. Afterwards, if you have any waterspots/streaks you can come back around with a micro and quick detail spray to touch up.
2. There really isn't any solid answer to this. There are so many variables including how you maintain it, how its stored, the weather in your area, and the products you use just to name a few. Claying should usually only be done when needed (you'll feel it in the paint), as you're running a brick across the paint - again it comes down to how the car is maintained as far as a timeline goes. Wax/Seal are essentially the same thing. Waxing usually referes to using a natural product (think Carnuaba), where as Sealing usually referes to a synthetic wax. However, from what I've been told and read you can do both, seal first, wax after, if you choose to. This again, can vary GREATLY on the timeline, but mainly because of the product, but also the conditions your car endures. You can never wax/seal a car too much - I did my Gen 1 lightning EVERY Saturday. But, I typically tell my customers once a quarter is great, twice a year is pushing it, but no less then once a year, as no product can last that long. Typical life on waxes range from 2wk to 4 months (again, depending on the variables), and sealants up to a year.
Hope this helps.
1. After a nice mitt wash their are several ways you can go about drying your car. My perferred method - even with hard water - is to use a California Water Blade to remove the bulk of the water followed by an air dryer (leaf blower). HOWEVER, make sure your water blade is clean before every use by running it under water and running your finger over the blade to remove any dust/dirt/debris. I use a Craftsman vacuum with detachable blower to air dry the vehicles. Afterwards, if you have any waterspots/streaks you can come back around with a micro and quick detail spray to touch up.
2. There really isn't any solid answer to this. There are so many variables including how you maintain it, how its stored, the weather in your area, and the products you use just to name a few. Claying should usually only be done when needed (you'll feel it in the paint), as you're running a brick across the paint - again it comes down to how the car is maintained as far as a timeline goes. Wax/Seal are essentially the same thing. Waxing usually referes to using a natural product (think Carnuaba), where as Sealing usually referes to a synthetic wax. However, from what I've been told and read you can do both, seal first, wax after, if you choose to. This again, can vary GREATLY on the timeline, but mainly because of the product, but also the conditions your car endures. You can never wax/seal a car too much - I did my Gen 1 lightning EVERY Saturday. But, I typically tell my customers once a quarter is great, twice a year is pushing it, but no less then once a year, as no product can last that long. Typical life on waxes range from 2wk to 4 months (again, depending on the variables), and sealants up to a year.
Hope this helps.
I disagree on a few things here, from experience and backed up on the detail forums.
-The CA water blade....it only takes one particle of dust to land on the car and get caught under the blade and leave nasty marks....that can happen on the surface of the car while you're cleaning the blade. Problem is doing it that way takes too long vs other methods so I don't recommend it.
-A blower is a great idea, but not one run off a vacuum. Its primary job is to suck up DIRT. You will get some dirt back out onto the paint unless it has *multiple* inline filters. Use a standard electric leaf blower instead which is also more mobile and easier to use quickly.
-If you want to seal & wax the car, great. But most waxes have solvents in them and you need to let the sealant fully cure before applying wax. This is not something you can do in the same afternoon on a quick job. I'd not apply a wax over a sealant any sooner than 12 hours, and 24 hours would be ideal. If the wax removes the sealant...then whats the point?
-You actually can wax a car too much. Frequent layers of wax ('nuba-based) will dull the paint. It will start to mute metallic/pearl properties and on solid colors it will start to look cloudy. How noticeable depends on the product, how corrected the paint was to start with, and how frequent the application. I wouldn't wax more than twice a month and only that often with a product that has a short durability cycle. Something like Swissvax Concorso (4-6 months durability) I wouldn't use it more than every other month. You wouldn't want your girl putting makeup on everyday without removing the old stuff would you? Similar principle.
-There are product that will last over a year. Coatings. Sealants and waxes won't, but coatings will. Ex: Optimum Opti-Guard/Opti-Coat 2.0, CQuartz, AQuartz, and a couple others that have recently hit the market. These typically start around 18 months durability and can go over several years (Opti-Guard/Coat 2.0)
-Just a note about wax durability, the OTC ones will never make it to 4 months on a car that sees the road daily (whether its garaged at night or not). You'll need the higher end waxes for that durability. The one exception to this rule is Collinite.
The shape of the pockets give the water somewhere to go, they are typically thicker as well. But someone who is an expert on MF could probably explain it more eloquently.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0