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Do NOT use that brush, unless you want to scratch up your black paint.
Swissvax wheel brush is my favorite. Though, if they are the thin 5spoke wheels, just use a microfiber wash mitt (separate from your body wash mitt).
The get the inside barrels, Daytona Speed Master Brush.
Swissvax wheel brush is my favorite. Though, if they are the thin 5spoke wheels, just use a microfiber wash mitt (separate from your body wash mitt).
The get the inside barrels, Daytona Speed Master Brush.
Guess I need to just stop being lazy and keep scrubbing away. lol. What's all the bitching about reading through all the pages? The thread itself has a SEARCH function. I used it before posting my question, I didn't see a comparable answer, then posted.
Quit being lazy and wasting other people's time! That's why it is 80 pages long to begin with.
Quit being lazy and wasting other people's time! That's why it is 80 pages long to begin with.
Jeff I have a question for you. After I did a dawn wash and clayed my car I noticed what looked to be like sap all over the hood. 105/205 did not get it off. Im afraid its etching in the clear coat but from what I do not know. The guy who owned my car before me literally let it sit in a garage and barely drove it for 5 years. Since I have owned it coming up on 3 years it never sat outside and always had wax on it. I also didnt order flat pads when I bought all my stuff from autogeek. Would different compounds help remove this or do you think Im royally screwed? I can try to get up a picture but itll be a shitty one from my phone..
What's all the bitching about reading through all the pages? The thread itself has a SEARCH function. I used it before posting my question, I didn't see a comparable answer, then posted.
Quit being lazy and wasting other people's time! That's why it is 80 pages long to begin with.
Quit being lazy and wasting other people's time! That's why it is 80 pages long to begin with.
Because people are lazy and they want things handed to them instead of putting forward a little work. I mean hell, this thread in itself is worth thousands of dollars just in the knowledge of what products to use let alone how to use them.
Jeff I have a question for you. After I did a dawn wash and clayed my car I noticed what looked to be like sap all over the hood. 105/205 did not get it off. Im afraid its etching in the clear coat but from what I do not know. The guy who owned my car before me literally let it sit in a garage and barely drove it for 5 years. Since I have owned it coming up on 3 years it never sat outside and always had wax on it. I also didnt order flat pads when I bought all my stuff from autogeek. Would different compounds help remove this or do you think Im royally screwed? I can try to get up a picture but itll be a shitty one from my phone..
I know you asked Jeff but I will offer up my two cents. When you say sap I am guessing you are meaning tree sap? Are they little dark color spots on the paint?
Etching of the clear coat will have a soft fuzzy edge to it and will kinda follow the edge of a body panel or can be circular if its in the middle of a panel.
Can you get any pics?
Jeff I have a question for you. After I did a dawn wash and clayed my car I noticed what looked to be like sap all over the hood. 105/205 did not get it off. Im afraid its etching in the clear coat but from what I do not know. The guy who owned my car before me literally let it sit in a garage and barely drove it for 5 years. Since I have owned it coming up on 3 years it never sat outside and always had wax on it. I also didnt order flat pads when I bought all my stuff from autogeek. Would different compounds help remove this or do you think Im royally screwed? I can try to get up a picture but itll be a shitty one from my phone..
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Verdad Gallardo What's all the bitching about reading through all the pages? The thread itself has a SEARCH function. I used it before posting my question, I didn't see a comparable answer, then posted.
Quit being lazy and wasting other people's time! That's why it is 80 pages long to begin with.
Quit being lazy and wasting other people's time! That's why it is 80 pages long to begin with.
Jay- Yes I meant tree sap. Not dark but whitish colored pretty similiar to what you described.
Jeff- Acid rain could make sense but it is only present all over the hood. I will try to get a picture up here..
Jeff- Acid rain could make sense but it is only present all over the hood. I will try to get a picture up here..
What do you recommend with the heat and sun for washing/waxing and paint correction?
It's 80+ in the morning here now. I've always heard to wash in the early morning or late evening.. to make sure the paint is cool before washing. What do you suggest about washing in the heat? I also don't have a inside area to work in so I can "Correct" the paint. Any advice on that either?
I've got the flooding technique down pat and thanks to that water spots are a bare minimum now! I'm just worried about trying to correct in the sun.
It's 80+ in the morning here now. I've always heard to wash in the early morning or late evening.. to make sure the paint is cool before washing. What do you suggest about washing in the heat? I also don't have a inside area to work in so I can "Correct" the paint. Any advice on that either?
I've got the flooding technique down pat and thanks to that water spots are a bare minimum now! I'm just worried about trying to correct in the sun.
What do you recommend with the heat and sun for washing/waxing and paint correction?
It's 80+ in the morning here now. I've always heard to wash in the early morning or late evening.. to make sure the paint is cool before washing. What do you suggest about washing in the heat? I also don't have a inside area to work in so I can "Correct" the paint. Any advice on that either?
I've got the flooding technique down pat and thanks to that water spots are a bare minimum now! I'm just worried about trying to correct in the sun.
It's 80+ in the morning here now. I've always heard to wash in the early morning or late evening.. to make sure the paint is cool before washing. What do you suggest about washing in the heat? I also don't have a inside area to work in so I can "Correct" the paint. Any advice on that either?
I've got the flooding technique down pat and thanks to that water spots are a bare minimum now! I'm just worried about trying to correct in the sun.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
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Are they kinda clear and size of a pen head? I had those just claybar alot any they come out
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
What do you recommend with the heat and sun for washing/waxing and paint correction?
It's 80+ in the morning here now. I've always heard to wash in the early morning or late evening.. to make sure the paint is cool before washing. What do you suggest about washing in the heat? I also don't have a inside area to work in so I can "Correct" the paint. Any advice on that either?
I've got the flooding technique down pat and thanks to that water spots are a bare minimum now! I'm just worried about trying to correct in the sun.
It's 80+ in the morning here now. I've always heard to wash in the early morning or late evening.. to make sure the paint is cool before washing. What do you suggest about washing in the heat? I also don't have a inside area to work in so I can "Correct" the paint. Any advice on that either?
I've got the flooding technique down pat and thanks to that water spots are a bare minimum now! I'm just worried about trying to correct in the sun.
The "stains" are in large portions on the hood. Their not small and in big lines or forms like something was squirted on the hood, dried and now wont come off. Thats why I thought it was sap.. I did clay the car and nothing. M105/205 couldnt get it off and wax didnt cover up any blemishes. At one point it had to be covered by wax because I didnt notice until after a dawn wash.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2012
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1. After a nice mitt wash their are several ways you can go about drying your car. My perferred method - even with hard water - is to use a California Water Blade to remove the bulk of the water followed by an air dryer (leaf blower). HOWEVER, make sure your water blade is clean before every use by running it under water and running your finger over the blade to remove any dust/dirt/debris. I use a Craftsman vacuum with detachable blower to air dry the vehicles. Afterwards, if you have any waterspots/streaks you can come back around with a micro and quick detail spray to touch up.
2. There really isn't any solid answer to this. There are so many variables including how you maintain it, how its stored, the weather in your area, and the products you use just to name a few. Claying should usually only be done when needed (you'll feel it in the paint), as you're running a brick across the paint - again it comes down to how the car is maintained as far as a timeline goes. Wax/Seal are essentially the same thing. Waxing usually referes to using a natural product (think Carnuaba), where as Sealing usually referes to a synthetic wax. However, from what I've been told and read you can do both, seal first, wax after, if you choose to. This again, can vary GREATLY on the timeline, but mainly because of the product, but also the conditions your car endures. You can never wax/seal a car too much - I did my Gen 1 lightning EVERY Saturday. But, I typically tell my customers once a quarter is great, twice a year is pushing it, but no less then once a year, as no product can last that long. Typical life on waxes range from 2wk to 4 months (again, depending on the variables), and sealants up to a year.
Hope this helps.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2012
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The "stains" are in large portions on the hood. Their not small and in big lines or forms like something was squirted on the hood, dried and now wont come off. Thats why I thought it was sap.. I did clay the car and nothing. M105/205 couldnt get it off and wax didnt cover up any blemishes. At one point it had to be covered by wax because I didnt notice until after a dawn wash.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
What do you recommend with the heat and sun for washing/waxing and paint correction?
It's 80+ in the morning here now. I've always heard to wash in the early morning or late evening.. to make sure the paint is cool before washing. What do you suggest about washing in the heat? I also don't have a inside area to work in so I can "Correct" the paint. Any advice on that either?
I've got the flooding technique down pat and thanks to that water spots are a bare minimum now! I'm just worried about trying to correct in the sun.
It's 80+ in the morning here now. I've always heard to wash in the early morning or late evening.. to make sure the paint is cool before washing. What do you suggest about washing in the heat? I also don't have a inside area to work in so I can "Correct" the paint. Any advice on that either?
I've got the flooding technique down pat and thanks to that water spots are a bare minimum now! I'm just worried about trying to correct in the sun.
and this.
However, if you REALLY don't have a choice, you can invest in a floor fan and an easy up. Work the side thats out of the sun, and use the floor fan to keep the paint cool (as far as correcting). Flip/Turn - Repeat.