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Old May 17, 2012 | 11:07 AM
  #1421  
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Quick question. I ordered blackfire wet diamond and will be doing a full detail/paint correction using a friends rotary when I am home. However, I don't have a rotary of my own. I can apply this polish by hand the same way I would with a wax correct? Just use it instead of a wax.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #1422  
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Originally Posted by redlineracing
Quick question. I ordered blackfire wet diamond and will be doing a full detail/paint correction using a friends rotary when I am home. However, I don't have a rotary of my own. I can apply this polish by hand the same way I would with a wax correct? Just use it instead of a wax.
Do you have rotary experience?

Its not a polish, its a sealant. It has no abrasive properties. Yes you can apply it by hand.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #1423  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Do you have rotary experience?

Its not a polish, its a sealant. It has no abrasive properties. Yes you can apply it by hand.
Yes, I meant polish. Searching alot of things right now, got mixed up.


I personally don't have rotary experience, no. My friend however runs a small detailing business and has plenty of experience himself.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #1424  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
You can apply it by hand, but is it needed? No lol. I like to because its fun to do it that way, but you use 4-5 times the amount of product versus a foam applicator pad. Good for dramatic effect or fun, but there is no "benefit" to applying it that way.

Haha, I personally wouldn't apply it by hand, especially not at Swissvax CR pricing! I figure they were just hamming it up for video production.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 12:19 PM
  #1425  
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Originally Posted by redlineracing
Yes, I meant polish. Searching alot of things right now, got mixed up.


I personally don't have rotary experience, no. My friend however runs a small detailing business and has plenty of experience himself.
You mean polish, so I'm confused now.... Polish is an abrasive that should be worked by machine, the Blackfire Wet Diamond is a sealant that you can apply by hand or by DA buffer. You don't apply the sealant via rotary.

And since you were going to borrow the tool, I'd recommend against it. A rotary is a high skill level tool and is not novice friendly. I'd strongly recommend a DA like the Griots Garage 6" or Porter Cable.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 10:58 PM
  #1426  
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I gotta question for some reason I still have scratches in my paint after buffing...I am using the 105/205 combo I don't really understand what I doing wrong
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Old May 17, 2012 | 11:14 PM
  #1427  
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Originally Posted by Redf02rmula
I gotta question for some reason I still have scratches in my paint after buffing...I am using the 105/205 combo I don't really understand what I doing wrong
The scratches may be too deep to remove. What pads and machine are you using?
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Old May 18, 2012 | 12:19 AM
  #1428  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
You mean polish, so I'm confused now.... Polish is an abrasive that should be worked by machine, the Blackfire Wet Diamond is a sealant that you can apply by hand or by DA buffer. You don't apply the sealant via rotary.

And since you were going to borrow the tool, I'd recommend against it. A rotary is a high skill level tool and is not novice friendly. I'd strongly recommend a DA like the Griots Garage 6" or Porter Cable.
I needed some sleep. I originally meant to say sealant. Good to know I can effectively apply it by hand.

I am not borrowing the orbital, he is going to use it himself on my car. I am planning on purchasing the griots 6" as soon as funds allow.

Thanks again!
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Old May 18, 2012 | 08:06 AM
  #1429  
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Two questions

How long do I let a sealant cure?

Can I use different waxes/sealants/polishes/compounds on the same pad provided they are cleaned properly?
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Old May 18, 2012 | 06:26 PM
  #1430  
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Jeff

I'm looking to restore the gloss to my stock 17" clear coated WS6 wheels. I've read your thread on restoring these types of wheels but in it you suggest using a rotary... Is there any way I could m105/m205 them with the LC HT 3" pads I have and my trusty PC7424xp?

Also, I have the money needed set aside for a rotary. I've been holding off on it trying to get more experience with the PC before taking the jump. Which rotary would you say is a more "user friendly" polisher for a beginner to rotary polishers? Currently had my eyes on the flex...
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Old May 19, 2012 | 05:15 PM
  #1431  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
The scratches may be too deep to remove. What pads and machine are you using?
We'll they shouldn't be too deep, I recently just painted my hood. Wet sanded 1500 and 2000.
I use a wool pad with 105 and a foam pad with 205..
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Old May 19, 2012 | 05:23 PM
  #1432  
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Originally Posted by Redf02rmula
We'll they shouldn't be too deep, I recently just painted my hood. Wet sanded 1500 and 2000.
I use a wool pad with 105 and a foam pad with 205..
Then I would check to make sure the towels your using to remove your product aren't scratching your clear coat.
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Old May 20, 2012 | 05:56 AM
  #1433  
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Was wondering how to stop 105 from dusting? Using a Cobra orange pad, with a PC. Also primed pad with final inspection and even tried priming pad with 105. But no luck.
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:06 PM
  #1434  
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Originally Posted by Blackta24
Was wondering how to stop 105 from dusting? Using a Cobra orange pad, with a PC. Also primed pad with final inspection and even tried priming pad with 105. But no luck.
I love 105 and was having a lot of problems with it dusting. I did a lot of reading on it on Autopia.

1. I started using the Kevin Brown Method, "KBM" which helped a lot. Basically you are priming the entire pad with 105 instead of using pea size drops or making an "X".

2. Clean your pad often with compressed air or a foam cleaning brush.

3. Kevin Brown also told me to use a few spritz of distilled water to bring back the 105 but I haven't done this one. I will say I have tried to use different detail sprays to accomplish this and all it does is make things worse. The 105 thins out which makes it dry out faster and it doesn't cut as well. Just my experience with it.

After I started doing these two things the work time of the 105 improved and the dusting went down. IMO 105 is always going to dust some.
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:17 PM
  #1435  
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Any tips from the pros on polishing wheels with center section screws?

It's rather painstaking with the old 'finger' method.

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Old May 20, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #1436  
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Originally Posted by Redf02rmula
We'll they shouldn't be too deep, I recently just painted my hood. Wet sanded 1500 and 2000.
I use a wool pad with 105 and a foam pad with 205..
I used microfiber towelss...idk I just can't seem to get the scratches out
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Old May 22, 2012 | 08:44 PM
  #1437  
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What's a good drying towel that won't swirl the paint and has decent absorbancy?
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Old May 22, 2012 | 09:34 PM
  #1438  
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Originally Posted by Melkor
Any tips from the pros on polishing wheels with center section screws?

It's rather painstaking with the old 'finger' method.

There are a few companies that make a foam attachment for drills, but I do it by hand...

Originally Posted by Redf02rmula
I used microfiber towelss...idk I just can't seem to get the scratches out
Pictures would help here. What microfiber towels are they? How to you clean them? Could they be sanding tracers that are still present? Too many unknowns here, need more information.

Originally Posted by Conrad
What's a good drying towel that won't swirl the paint and has decent absorbancy?
I like the Cobra Waffle Weave Gold drying MF.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 11:30 PM
  #1439  
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Okay I got one for ya. When I look at my car in the sun (black ws6) at certain angles I can see very, very fine scratches. How do I get rid of them?
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Old May 23, 2012 | 12:27 AM
  #1440  
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Originally Posted by MikeWS6
Okay I got one for ya. When I look at my car in the sun (black ws6) at certain angles I can see very, very fine scratches. How do I get rid of them?
I know there are a lot of pages here, but this has been answered numerous times in this thread.
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