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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 02:35 AM
  #2421  
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Oh and the larger pot (into which you put the glass bowl) should have a bit of water too....bring it to the same level as what's in the glass bowl.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 02:48 AM
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I put little water in a big pot and put the can in the pot. The water was about half way up the tin .I heated the water slowly on a gas stove.I stured the tin and heated it until it turned to liquid than I pulled the tin out and let it sit overnight. It went back to a completely solid form.I will let it sit a little longer. Thanks for all your help gofast.
I can hardly wait to try this wax on my daily driver(toyota camry).
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 09:58 PM
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Can you layer one carnuba wax over another brand? I paint corrected my silver camry the other day and used menzerna nano SF4000, Tripple M glaze, then waxed the car with meguires#16 carnuba wax.WOW is what it looks like.My jaw hit the ground. That wax is the best I have ever used.
On my 2000 t/a I used the same products except I waxed the car with pinnacle signature 11 carnuba wax. I took one of my spare Black headlight covers and used the menzerna,glaze, and pinnacleon one side and the Meguires on the other. I think I like the Meguires better and it feels more slippery. I know I am going on forever. Can you layer one brand of wax over another? I want to use some #16 over the otherwax,What are your thoughts?Even though it has been only about 2 weeks since I put the pinnacle on.
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 07:22 PM
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Yes, you can layer a wax on top of another wax. It won't really bond to it but wax is a sacrificial layer anyway. The only reason to layer a wax is for (more) even coverage. If you really want long lasting protection, you'll want a sealant as the base protection layer. I use Opti-Seal as my base sealant. Two coats separated by 24 hours so each can cure, then a coat of wax. After every 1 or 2 washes (depending how much time in between) I use a booster wax. With this combo, the car remains protected well into 6-8 months of weathering.

Originally Posted by why87
Gofast, how exactly do you tackle hard water stains on glass?
#0000 steel wool and white vinegar.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 10:44 PM
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I thought I would bump this to the top for people who haven't seen it.
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 10:30 PM
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I keep my TA clean and waxed but swirls are still pretty noticeable.. I picked up a bottle of meguiars swirlX because I've heard good things about it, what's your guys' input on it?? and what should I use to apply it foam pad or terrycloth??
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 10:31 PM
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Microfiber.
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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dang that was fast! that was my first post on the site didn't expect a reply within a minute thank you for the input though lol
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #2429  
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Originally Posted by BAN_ONE
I keep my TA clean and waxed but swirls are still pretty noticeable.. I picked up a bottle of meguiars swirlX because I've heard good things about it, what's your guys' input on it?? and what should I use to apply it foam pad or terrycloth??
It's more meant for spot correction, not the whole car. You're gonna wear your arm out to get moderate results. Swirl removal should be done by machine. And stay away from terry cloths.
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 11:57 PM
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will do, thank you. this thread is amazing to say the least, happy new year everyone!
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 11:36 AM
  #2431  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
It's more meant for spot correction, not the whole car. You're gonna wear your arm out to get moderate results. Swirl removal should be done by machine. And stay away from terry cloths.
I sleep in late and Jeff beats me too it!

Nevermind, heck that was from yesterday!
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 07:53 PM
  #2432  
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I'll just try to knock out my questions at once.. you said it should be by machine, I have a daily POS car I could practice on but am scared to death I'll mess my paint up on the TA because I've heard you can put circle/swirl marks using a buffer or DA polisher?? assuming I got the meguiars DA polisher kit what would be a good one step to use with it to remove the swirls and then hit it with wax or is there a step I'm missing?? I clay bared the car when i got it in march then waxed it every few months hopefully I'm not doing more harm than good.. and LiljayV10 I'm from gibson county nice to see someone from the area on here!
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 08:23 PM
  #2433  
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A D/A polisher won't induce circles or swirls unless there is dirt or something of that sort in the pad. One of the main reasons D/A polishers have become pretty much the standard in the high end detailing industry is ease of use, very low if any risk of damage and swirl free finishing. It hasn't been until the past three years or so that it is actually possible to cause damage to your paint using a D/A polisher but you have to be using certain products with certain machines. Rupes21+MF pad+FG400/M101/M100 will do it if you aren't careful and aren't experienced.

With that said, using a Porter Cable, Megs, Groits, Harbor Freight, etc you aren't going to destroy your paint. The above mentioned machines don't have enough power to burn through paint. Sure anything is possible but you would have to be doing something ridiculous to cause damage.

The great thing about F body paint is it's hard. Hard paint finishes down easier than soft paint. The plus side is you can use a product that is somewhat aggressive to remove defects and not leave a lot of marring. Soft paint is much more finicky.

Which D/A kit are you looking at?

The most important thing is to learn how to wash and dry your car properly. You can speed days polishing it making it look perfect but if you are washing it incorrectly your paint will be wrecked after the first few washes.

Shoot me a PM if you want.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 04:15 AM
  #2434  
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Well said Jason.

Don't forget GOOD (ie not Costco) microfiber towels to wipe off polish residue and for drying the car. No sense in correcting it and putting in new swirls with bad towels.
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 02:02 PM
  #2435  
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Before
https://www.dropbox.com/s/304asllzt7sdwsp/VIDEO0023.mp4

After. Rupes, MF Finishing pad, and HD Adapt
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lyb1du5x41dq422/VIDEO0026.mp4
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 02:01 PM
  #2436  
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Hey Gofast. I have a 2002 z28 that I am looking to clean up this spring both interior and exterior. Interior is leather. I have a 30 gallon 2hp air compressor if that helps any. I would like to budget around ~$300 for everything if possible. What should I start with?
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 04:09 PM
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Some of my favorite interior products that I used are from meguiar's. For the leather items in my camaro I used the leather sealer system and for my personal car I used ultimate protectant. For my dad's camaro I used the leather sealer system and natural shine. All these items can be found at your local auto parts store or even walmart. I have heard good things about mother's leathertech as well as VLR and their interior protectant.

I also have the meguiar's ultimate trio (ultimate compund, ultimate polish, ultimate wax) in my arsenal. Again all three are available over the counter. These are good products to learn with and are very user friendly.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 06:28 PM
  #2438  
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Originally Posted by 7SEALS
Hey Gofast. I have a 2002 z28 that I am looking to clean up this spring both interior and exterior. Interior is leather. I have a 30 gallon 2hp air compressor if that helps any. I would like to budget around ~$300 for everything if possible. What should I start with?
Page 1 of this thread.
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 07:06 PM
  #2439  
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Does anyone have some M101 they would be willing to trade? Need enough for my z06, m105 still leaves some deeper swirls i need to try and knock out! I have quiet a bit of product I could trade!
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by CamaroSS27
Does anyone have some M101 they would be willing to trade? Need enough for my z06, m105 still leaves some deeper swirls i need to try and knock out! I have quiet a bit of product I could trade!
I have had good success with the meguiar's microfiber cutting pad and M105 to remove the deeper swirls on hard clear. Also you may be chasing imperfections deeper into the clear that may require more work than just a pad and compound.
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